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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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01-03-2011, 12:57 AM | #1 |
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For those of you who have done PBM Solid Subframe Risers...
What kind of epoxy did you use to install the new bushings? Im looking for brands here...
What exactly did you have to do to the E-Brake cables? The PBM forum thread thing about the risers just says "blah blah blah bend shit and shit"...Nothing precise. Did you have to smash the unibody at all to clear anything? My shits ready to go and my risers show up tomorrow so Im looking to figure these small things out so it goes back in smoothly with no bullshit. Thanks! |
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01-03-2011, 05:08 AM | #4 |
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Its recommended by PBM to use an epoxy when you put the risers in. I just used JB Weld - its a two part epoxy.
As far as e-brake cables go, I am pretty sure you just have to bend the brackets and make sure its all bolted up before you put the subframe back up. I tried to do it after the fact because I miss read the suggestions online and my e-brake sucks ass - so I'm ripping it out and doing a hydro e-brake like I wanted anyway. Also, you will have to clearance the area above your RUCA a little. You can use a sledge hammer, or saw, or whatever, just make sure you beat it up like .5 to 1".
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01-03-2011, 05:15 AM | #5 |
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Didnt put an epoxy in mine, dropped then in and bolted it all up!
Altho im about a year off from driving the car, so i may end up putting something in, See how we go i guess!
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01-03-2011, 09:01 AM | #9 |
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he hit the nail on the head... you dont have to use the epoxy, it's merely for ease of installation. the brand of epoxy really doesn't matter, so long as it's an "epoxy". it doesnt have to hold any longer than to keep your holes centered. once it's installed, it isn't going anywhere anyway.
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01-03-2011, 10:18 AM | #10 |
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I used JB weld on my S13, and I had to remove the clamps for the e-brake cables and move them to the sides of the drivshaft hump. Otherwise my cables would have been smashed.
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01-03-2011, 10:28 AM | #11 |
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i didnt use epoxy, and u just gotta work those ebrake lines real quick.
shit is EASY
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01-03-2011, 08:22 PM | #12 |
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+1, didn't bother with epoxy, it just squeezes back out anyway, it's a damn near perfect fit. I just bent the brackets a little bit, simply make sure they don't get pinched between the subframe and the chassis. The subframe wants to be pretty close to level when reinstalling also.
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01-03-2011, 09:04 PM | #13 |
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you don't have to bend the end-link brackets. There is a little lip by where the wheel well/inner fender goes to the body. It's like the lip in the front fender but lower and more in. You have to cut/hammer/remove/bend/w.e to get more room. You don't want your arms to be hitting that as the suspension compresses. I'd say cut a small slit and then fold them over inwards, clean them first though so they dont rust and then some caulking/sealant over the seam so water doesn't get caught in there and rust.
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01-05-2011, 01:50 AM | #15 |
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Which jb weld did you guys use ?
There is the red/black package and the blue/yellow pack. Or does it even matter ?
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01-05-2011, 01:53 AM | #16 | |
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They say to put them in the freezer for a couple hours before installing them. They also say to use an epoxy.
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01-05-2011, 06:07 AM | #17 |
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I don't know about you guys, but I don't like the idea of my subframe moving even the little bit that a slip-fit would let it.
Just use a little epoxy. It can't hurt and it's not like you're going to need to take the risers back out. BTW, I filed the lips of the bushing holes all the way around, and they dropped right in, zero pushing or scraping.
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01-05-2011, 08:58 AM | #19 |
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I've never seen anyone put epoxy on solid subframe bushings. The reason you put them in the freezer is because aluminum shrinks a tiny bit. Hammer them in, then heat them up and they expand a tiny bit. That suckers are in really tight. But I guess epoxy couldn't hurt? I've just never done it, or seen anyone do it.
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01-05-2011, 08:59 AM | #20 |
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i used jb weld, and i just ran the ebrake lines through the subframe holes still. I had to cut some of the protective sleeve on the cable so it would slide through again. super easy.
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01-05-2011, 09:07 AM | #21 |
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Wait what? I have the PBM risers, I never needed to freeze them, they just slide right in. Its a perfect fit, just the pain in the ass part is keeping them there. Truthfully I would have gorilla glued, epoxy, JBWeld that crap in there next time. The bolt holes are very precise and the bolts, in the chassis are tapered to help the entire frame slide in correctly....
I spend more time trying to keep those things in while sliding the subframe into the chassis than the whole job of burning crap out, taking out the subframe etc.... Just easier to keep them in place.
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01-05-2011, 11:11 AM | #22 | ||
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Quote:
Plus it keeps them in place when you're putting the subframe back in. Quote:
Oh and also, if you're doing this by yourself, you might want to have a hammer of some kind. Keeping the subframe super level is hard, so you'll probably bind on different studs, but a good wack now and then and everything will go right in.
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09-18-2013, 06:35 PM | #25 |
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+1, what he said... The PBM bushings are not a press fit, they have a tiny bit of wiggle room in the subframe slots, so if you don't use epoxy to fill the small gap there will be some vibration and possibly a little play.
I just took out my press fit STANCE bushings to install PBM risers and the STANCE bushings have to be hammered in or out but the PBM bushings fall in and fall out without pushing or pulling, thats why you use epoxy or JB Weld. |
09-18-2013, 07:14 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
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09-20-2013, 09:25 AM | #27 |
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That's why the SPL ones are so rad. They press in an you don't have to worry about shit like vibration or falling out.
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09-20-2013, 09:39 AM | #29 |
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I have mine raised and did literally nothing. Ebrake cables are fine. I'm on SPL bushings but they do the same thing. The tower on the subframe for the traction rod mount is close to the unibody but they don't interfere.
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09-20-2013, 09:49 AM | #30 |
touge factory installed my pbm risers without epoxy smfh
i ended up taking the subframe out and redoing the installation because of this there was DEFINITELY movement occurring and wear was visible on the bushings imgur: the simple image sharer |
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