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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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![]() Well today i dyno'd my car, and im kinda disappointed with the results...
The engine has a little over 4,000 miles on it, its a ka24de, i've got an injen intake, hks hi-power 85mm exhaust, fidanza flywheel, centerforce stage 2 clutch, electric fans, high flow cat, msd blaster coil, j30 diff, walbro fuel pump. i made 111hp @ 5200 rpm (Red) 130 ft-lb @ 3800 rpm (Blue) Now the question comes to my mind, why wont my AFR stay consistant? It's the black line on the graph. The highest that it gets is 13.7 and the lowest is 12.1. Heres the graph, but i am happy with one thing... Its a nice linear curve ![]()
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111 is really weak. Even though mustang dynos usually read lower than dynojets. I remember someone (alex chang?) brought up that the baseline on their car was too low. The fix, on that car, was to change the coolant temp. sensor. What was your coolant temp when you were dyno testing the car?
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dude that must be it then because my coolant temp sensor plug is messed up the wires sometimes pull out of the connector.
also is there any way to repin the connector because no junkyards around here have dohc 240's that i can get the connector off of.
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I think NAPA might sell factory plugs. Other than that I don't know. You could always post in the want to buy section of the forum and see if someone that is doing an engine swap would get you the plug. I would also check and see if the SOHC plug is the same. You never know.
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I can almost bet right now that the reason you are running low power is because of your fuel pump. Your car is running rich and you have nothing to bring the fuel down. The coolant sensor wont cause the loss in power that you are currently experiencing. The mods that you have, there is no need to upgrade the fuel pump...AT ALL. This is the perfect case of "adding more mods = more power" nonsense. Anyhow, slap the stop fuel pump on and try to dyno again. With the KA24DE and your mods, you should see about 140whp. Its funny because the people who have been on the mustang dynos, then come here usually get lower numbers than the mustang dynos. I have never seen one read lower then our dynojet.
Look at your AFR chart. Its even rich for turbo application...it is totally robbing you of power on the NA motor. You should be around 14.0, 14.3 AFR. Youll see big gains over what you have now.
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14.0 to 1 your shitting me right? thats very lean n/a motors are lean at 13.5 at WOT during torque and hp peaks yes 111 rwhp is very low. most stock k24de put out 130 rwhp... how is your ignition timing, and ignition sytem?
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Eloy Race Precision Inc. Last edited by rollhard; 07-06-2006 at 05:10 PM.. |
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im turbocharging soon anyway so its cool
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You do not need a Walbro Pump
You do not need an 85mm Exh on an N/A motor. 2.5 inch MAX. I don't think the numbers are insanely low for your Mods at all.
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#11 |
seems a little low to me....
Those numbers seem a little low to me. There must be something else that's wrong besides what everyone have pointed out.
I dynoed at 129rwhp/140tq with a completely stock car.Link here. Did you try compression test? If it's low, that'll explain why. |
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At 111whp/130wtq and 2800lbish you built yourself a high 17 sec car. ![]() ...sorry, that was mean. Anyhow, your problem should be fixed when you go turbo.
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yea that is true, i think also it might be because one of the bolts on my IACV head rung off of it when i was swapping it out, so it is being held on to the manifold with 3 bolts and 1 is just sitting there, also i didnt have the gasket so i used rtv, so im pretty sure that is causing a vacuum leak, does anyone think that might be it since its way after the maf and that air isnt coming into the engine?
Edit ok another thought, since everyone is saying that it could be my fuel pump, what if i bought an aftermarket fpr? Since im going to need one anyway when i install the turbo, that should take care of the running rich problem right? because the stock fpr might be having trouble with the extra fuel being sent to it... Also ive heard its almost impossable to install one right where the stock one is because of how close to the firewall it is, how do u mount one then? maybe some1 could post their setup?
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ok wow, i checked my timing today and it was like 7 degrees off, it was at about 13 degrees BTDC, so i set it back to 20 by using the method of waming up, turning off, unplugging tps, revving to 3k a few times and then letting it settle down to 700 rpms, then check the timing. So im re dyno'ing today, im pretty sure this is why my numbers are so low.
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#17 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Well i finally dyno'd my new one. I'll scan or take a picture of hte sheet once i find it again.
But i did only 144whp and 137wtq on the KA in the new car. I think having it in "park" all the time may be causing it not to be so aggresive. I looped the park sensor so i could start it up. Then i unplugge dit while it was running and seemed a little bit better. Plus I could only get a 15.4 out of this car. Launching welded diffs are weird. If you think he's running lean. You should see my dyno read out (dunno if the o2 sniffer is fucked up or not) But I hit a 13.9 at lowest at the end of the powerband 6500. Mid range bouncing between 15:1 and 16:1. No detonation whatsoever though.
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that afr is perfectly fine for na on a stock ecu, fuel is not going to rob you of HP unless your just dumping fuel in, or not giving it any. dumping fuel in is like 8:1 and lower. Not enough fuel is like 19:1 and higher. Its not your fuel pump, its working fine. Don't swap your old one on, rollhard is smoking crack.
3" exhaust generally is to big for na but if you search around you will see that you will not loose power with it on the KA's, there are many dyno's proving this. Timing will affect your power. You did the right thing by check and reseting your timing. This is why you don't listen to people of the forums. Read, Read, Read. Take efi101. If you plan on going turbo your on the right track. Don't even listen to me go find a good tuning book and read for yourself. same goes for you rollhard, go read how a fuel system works and stfu. |
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#19 | |
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thx alot for the positive help bro, im getting rdy to leave to re dyno it so hopefully the timing did the trick.
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7* retarted will make a big difference. btw i have 3" exhaust and a walbro on my stock ka24de (getting ready to turbo) and my car runs 15.5 in the 1/4 but i think 15.4 is possible. enough of this exhuast backpressure bullshit. backpressure is NOT needed in a n/a motor exhuast velocity is needed to a point but that is taken care of through a well designed header and collector.
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#21 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Sean you coming to BOTI tomorrow? Or heading down to Test n Tune at PR tonight? I 'll be tehre rewiring a few sensors
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