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Old 07-16-2006, 04:05 PM   #1
partymonster 975
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Hey guys, I am planning on going turbo with my 1992 DOHC s13 KA. This is my parts list and I want to know what you guys think? Do I need any other parts or do I not need anything. My goal is to be in the 13's and have about 320hp. I'm basically using the IAP stage 1 kit with a TopHat stage 1 crate enigne and a AMS fuel system. What do you think?

- T3/T4 IAP turbo
- Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
- Oil Feed/Return Lines-Stainless steel braided line
- Front Mount Intercooler
- Intercooler piping is shipped with Greddy Type RS Blow Off Valve
- Tial 38mm Wastegate.
- IAP Custom Equal Length Turbo Manifold
- IAP Downpipe
- Z32 MAFS
- Enthalpy ECU tune
- Greddy Profec B boost controller (or should it be S and not B)
- Boost gauge
- Apexi N1 3" exhaust
- ASP crank pulley
- Koyo radiator
- JWT clutch kit
- JWT S1 cam set
- PLX m300 wideband
- Oil cooler and catch can
- AMS fuel kit

The AMS kit includes-
- Turbo240 fuel rail with -6 o-ring fittings
- 5 feet of 300psi EFI fuel line
- Fuel Lab 1:1 boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator
- Injector pigtails for your new top feed injectors
- 3-90 degree -6 AN ends and 1-45 degree -6 AN hose end
- All fittings, bolts, washers, o-rings, and clamps to complete the installation
- 6 SS Braided Line
- High Flow Fuel Filter
- Injector Size: 50lb High Z
- Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge
- Mitsubishi Injector Resistor Pack

BTW: For the crate motor I will be adding AMS rods, because don't the stock ones give out at the same time as the stock pistons, I also hear that 8.8:1 pistons will be a smarter choice with a stock bore along with Calico Coated Main and Rod Bearings. People have also been saying to skip the AMS kit and go with just a Nismo FPR, 555cc injectors, no fuel rail, etc. I think the AMS kit would be a better choice, you?

OK, I'm done.....your thoughts?
Thanks

http://www.import-autoperformance.co...0sxstage1.html
http://www.tophatperformance.com/
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...roducts_id=789

Also this is what the stage 1 crate motor includes if you cant find it on the site. I'm adding the AMS parts to this motor to help run more reliable/safer and I mite upgrade a little again in the future so I want to basically be covered.

This engine is stable to 350hp with proper turbo system and engine management. It is sold in long block form but additional items can be added at additional cost. Top Hat’s crate engines are the most complete KA performance engines you can buy. Other companies add extra charges for standard parts on our engines.

Parts-
Super Tech 8.4:1 compression 89.5mm coated pistons
Super Tech performance piston rings
Cometic MLS head gasket
ARP head studs
ARP Main studs
ARP Rod bolts
NEW Timing kit (Tensioners, guides, chains and gears)
NEW Oil pump assembly
NEW Water pump
Clevite main and rod bearings
New freeze plug kit
Mr Gasket copper exhaust gasket
Intake gasket

Precision Labor-
Block is bored, honed to 89.5mm, decked and hot tanked.
Head is cleaned, receives a 3 angle valve job and is surfaced.
All galley and freeze plugs are replaced.
Cam journals are check and then polished.
Factory camshafts are checked and polished.
Crank journals are checked and then polished.
Crank shaft is checked, polished or turned if needed.
The rotating assembly is then perfectly balanced including Rods, Pistons and Crank.
Factory Nissan rods are checked, reconditioned and shot peened.
Block is painted Engine cast coat grey.
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Old 07-16-2006, 04:41 PM   #2
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I would go with the AMS engine is you are going to have one built. Stock motors are stable to 400hp with proper management. I don't see why those pistons can't hold alot more.
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...oducts_id=1042

You can part together a Fuel system with similar parts for cheaper. Project Nissan makes a cheap rail.
http://www.projectnissan.com/shoppin...idproduct=3701
Get an Aeromotive FPR from like summit.
Bosch/Denso Injectors.

I personally don't like the IAP kit. but to each his own.
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Old 07-16-2006, 05:42 PM   #3
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I don't like the AMS motor cuz they charger for basic stuff, the TH motor comes with some of the stuff the AMS motor chargers as optional. plus it costs more. Also, so you don't think the AMS fuel kit is good? I liked it cuz it covers it all but that's why I made a post about this. Any thing else?

I never really looked at the JGS kit but I like it, I re-viced my list with there parts below, What do you think now? What will be a better setup, with the JGS kit or IAP? Still going on the TH stage 1 motor.
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

- Turbonetics .50 trim T3/T04E turbo (.48)
- Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
- Oil Feed/Return Lines-Stainless steel braided line
- IAP Front Mount Intercooler
- IAP Intercooler piping shipped with Greddy Type RS Blow Off Valve
- Tial 38mm Wastegate
- T3 mounting studs
- JGS KA24DE turbo manifold
- Turbo cement
- KA24(D)E downpipe and wg pipe set/ 3" SR DP
- Exhaust wrap and clamps for downpipe
- Z32 MAFS
- Flex-a-lite fans
- EGR plug
- MSD coil
- MSD 6al btm ignition
- Enthalpy ECU tune
- 0.050" Oil Pressure Restrictor
- Power Steering Resivore Relocation Kit
- Greddy Profec B boost controller (or should it be S and not B)
- Boost gauge
- Apexi N1 3" exhaust
- ASP crank pulley
- Koyo radiator
- JWT clutch kit
- JWT S1 cam set
- PLX m300 wideband
- Oil cooler and catch can
- AMS fuel kit- Parts included listed above.

Last edited by partymonster 975; 07-17-2006 at 11:48 AM..
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:06 PM   #4
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why not throw in some forged rods? that way you would be able to push more hp without having to worry about stock rods, which will bend/snap/break above 350-400hp. or are you going for a 'stockish' setup?
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB
I personally don't like the IAP kit. but to each his own.
Why is this?

partymonster 975 - Go with the JGS kit....what you have now looks good...but why the JWT clutch kit?..just wondering

As for the crate motor....good....but I've been browsing ka-t.org and I hear good things about HRT motors (but get a Felpro headgasket): http://www.handcraftedracing.com/engines.html
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:08 PM   #6
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PLX M300 sucks balls...
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaoBoY
why not throw in some forged rods? that way you would be able to push more hp without having to worry about stock rods, which will bend/snap/break above 350-400hp. or are you going for a 'stockish' setup?
I got AMS rods on the list, These AMS robs are suppose to be able to hold 500hp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleS14
Why is this?

partymonster 975 - Go with the JGS kit....what you have now looks good...but why the JWT clutch kit?..just wondering

As for the crate motor....good....but I've been browsing ka-t.org and I hear good things about HRT motors (but get a Felpro headgasket): http://www.handcraftedracing.com/engines.html
So you think JGS will be a better choice over the IAP kit? I hear its a awesome clutch, Its a z33 flywheel/clutch, It will bolt on to a 240 though, 1200 clamping force and its full sprung clutch disc, no pucks.
Anyone else, what do you think?
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partymonster 975
So you think JGS will be a better choice over the IAP kit? I hear its a awesome clutch, Its a z33 flywheel/clutch, It will bolt on to a 240 though, 1200 clamping force and its full sprung clutch disc, no pucks.
Anyone else, what do you think?
Yes since its straight forward and simple, but I've read good feedback about them. I honestly have yet to search for feedback about the IAP...I only remember seeing one post and it was a good mark for the kit. Remember that you need a fuel pump, BOV and SR downpipe if you go with the JSG kit.

Me personally...I'm considering the JGS kit and their BOV. I'm just waiting for the S14 FMIC kit to be in production.
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Last edited by SimpleS14; 07-16-2006 at 09:56 PM..
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:07 PM   #9
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I've got all 3 parts in the list, Walbro 255 pump, greddy type RS BOV and I haven't picked a DP yet but its on the list, anyone else?
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partymonster 975
I've got all 3 parts in the list, Walbro 255 pump, greddy type RS BOV and I haven't picked a DP yet but its on the list, anyone else?
BTW....

You have more than one list...so its quite confusing...esspecially if the list is copy and pasted from other website.


To stay on topic...I suggest the Touge Factory DP.
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:44 AM   #11
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sorry, The second list is the new one I'm talking about, I'll try to edit this post the best I can.
BTW: I hear getting a .63 a/r will be alot better then the .48?

Last edited by partymonster 975; 07-17-2006 at 10:07 AM..
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Old 07-17-2006, 10:53 AM   #12
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.48 will spool faster and give you more mid-range power. .63 is for top end and makes more over-all power.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:59 AM   #13
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If you want to be cheap. Why not buy the parts and haul it down to an engine builder?
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