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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 08-31-2006, 02:12 AM   #1
Kn1ves
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Starting Problems

So guys, try and figure out something for me. I have a starting problem. My 240 is like Jekyl and Hyde. Somtimes it doesnt start at all and sometimes (for months) it would run perfectly.

Heres the current situation

When the car starts and it idles at around 800rpm, I know for sure the car will start the next time.

When the car idles at 1400rpm, the car will not start the next time around.

Car cannot be jump started (Battery is out of the question)

Changed spark plugs (In January, along with 02 sensors)
- Checked for spark plug spark and the little red thing for spark (Screwdriver trick)

The car cranks. (Starter was replaced not a few months ago)

Changed the fuel pump (2 days ago)
- disconnected fuel line and fuel does squirt out

Changed the distributor (today)
- was push starting the car before, might have messed up the distributor so i went ahead and changed it. I did retard the timing on the old one and tried to start it. but it still didnt


The only way to start the car is to push start it. Sometimes the idle would kick in (and would rev @ 1400rpm) and sometimes it wont idle at all (would stall, even at freeway speeds)


The ECU is not showing any codes (55) and I also took it in for a Diagnostic check and they found nothing wrong (they suggested distributor)


the next thing im going to check (tomorrow) is the gas fuel relay to see whats wrong


Is there anything else im missing to go ahead and check??? Any other ideas? Suggestions?
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:17 AM   #2
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You need to swap out that engine with an LS1 Motor.
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:25 AM   #3
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^^ after college
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:29 AM   #4
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you need 1.1 jiggawatts going at 80mph, then go back to 1991 to install the flux capacitor to the same exact car in order to bring it back to the future and then problem solved. new car.
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:32 AM   #5
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Alright guys, he's looking for serious answers.
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Old 08-31-2006, 03:00 AM   #6
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high rpms and not working next time you turn it on - could be a ecu prob. try changing it out if nothing else works.
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Old 08-31-2006, 03:17 PM   #7
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i say..................... junk it! i will tow it for free of charge!
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Old 08-31-2006, 06:00 PM   #8
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i changed two fuses, EGI and the EGI pump and it seems to be starting fine now.... (it wouldnt start once, and i reconnected the fuses and it started again)
soo...

thanks for the help?
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Old 08-31-2006, 06:55 PM   #9
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let me know if it breaks down again. i have premium triple A service. i'll help you rid of your junk.
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Old 08-31-2006, 07:00 PM   #10
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check your starter, its easy to remove and take to be tested at your local auto zone, kragen, etc.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:22 AM   #11
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ok guys, problem still not solved, it just went thru its jekyl phase and started nicely a couple of times.. but now hyde is back.

the starter has died and has been replaced. i used to hit it with a metal object cuz it wouldnt crank. but now starter is cranking fine. i do not believe its the starter.

im starting to think this is a pure electrical problem
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:06 PM   #12
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anybody else have any ideas?
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Old 09-11-2006, 01:47 AM   #13
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Download a Factory Service Manual here from Zilvia.Net. Use the SEARCH feature.

Once you've downloaded the factory service manual for your model year car, locate both the ECU relay & fuel pump relay and replace them both with NEW OEM factory relays.

Also pull your steering column cover off & using a continuity tester, ohm meter, or volt meter, test your ignition switch to make sure it is working properly.

Also check your main wiring harness from the ECU to the motor by wiggling it as the motor is running. You want to make sure there are no shorts in the harness between the ECU and the point where the harness runs next to the fuel injectors. CAREFULLY try to wiggle the wires that lead to the distributor at the front of the engine - don't let the spinning plastic radiator fans wack your fingers as you test the wires running at the front of the engine to the distributor. You want to be sure you don't have any shorts in the harness there also. Also check the wires running to your MAF...make sure there are no shorts in those wires either.

And finally, check all your ground points at the ECU, ECI & fuel pump relays, and the engine ground relay on the driver side engine block by the fireway above the 02 sensor. Make sure there are NO shorts at those points.

Tracing electrical gremlins are a bitch.....hope this helps...

ID
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