Any handling/allignment buffs out there? - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

gotta240 · 11-04-2006, 10:04 PM

I'll soon be getting my allignment done and i would prefer to walk into the allighment shop with the specs i want my car set at... I figure its less for them to mess up, and i'll get a better end product.

Can anyone give me specs they recomend for my driving/setup?

S14 with front and rear sway bars, nismo power brace, adj. tension rods, tie rods(adjustable bump steer), f and r strut bars, coilovers, camber plates in front and top hat in rear.

The rear multilink is stock.

rolling on 18" rims w/ 245/45/18 front and 255/45/18 rear.

My main goal is traction and handling, and drifting is second priority.

PLEASE...anyone have suggestions?

punxva · 11-04-2006, 11:01 PM

i'd talk to one of the viceroy guys about it, they seem to know their suspension specs

*ManoNegra* · 11-04-2006, 11:48 PM

I'd wait till you get rucas to properly dial camber in the back.
When ready, I recommend West End Alignment.

hitman · 11-05-2006, 12:22 AM

i do my own alignments via toe plates and camber/caster gauge and turn plates as well as a long ass leveler, but i wouldnt consider my self an alignment buff lol.
anyways i run front settings at -2.5 camber, 8* caster, and 0 toe. you can run toe out for "better turn in" but when you are at full lock if youre into drifting youll have major toe out due to the ackerman effect, but youll have that no matter what. i am at 0 toe front like i said and at near full lock it becomes like 3 inches of toe out.
rear i run -1.5 camber, and like 1/16 toe in. toe in in the back gives it more grip and makes it tad more understeery, and the low camber also gives it good grip and makes tires wear decently for drifting.
i would wait until you can get rear ruca, and atleast traction rod or toe link whatever those are called so you can actually make a good ammount of adjustment back there depending on your height you might need it.
also, "rollin" on 45 series for 18 inch wheels is kidna tall for a 240sx.
just set your tie rods at max adjustment for bump steer i guess since the shop you are going to (whichever you choose) probably doesnt have a bump steer gauge.

sw20>>s14 · 11-05-2006, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotta240

rolling on 18" rims w/ 245/45/18 front and 255/45/18 rear.

My main goal is traction and handling

that somehow doesnt add up for me...you may want to specify what your goals are...but personally, id opt for a lifetime custom alignment if you dont know how to DIY it or if you dont have friends...lucky for me, i have a friend that does it, but if i didnt, id have the lifetime for sure...alignments arent really a one time thing...not for me at least...ive had about 5 within a year and still counting...theres a lot to tweak...

naed240sx · 11-05-2006, 02:58 AM

Werd to the lifetime alignment plans. It's the only way to go when you have coilovers and other adjustable stuff. I get at least 12 alignments a year.

You kinda have to figure out what you like for yourself, and whether or not you care about tire wear becomes and important issue as well.

I personally run -2 to -2.2 front camber, -1.5 to -1.7 rear camber and 0 toe all around. It's a good grippy setup on the street and won't wear tires.

General consensus is that -2 to -2.5 front camber and -1.5 to -2 rear are good ranges for grip driving with daily driven track s-chassis, probabably more camber if it is a dedicated track car.

I can't comment on toe, because i don't fiddle with it much.

Once again though, find a place that does lifetime alignments. It will allow you to play around with stuff more and change the height of your car at any time and still have an in spec alignment.

You should also look into some smaller diameter tires. 255/45/18 is MASSIVE.

gotta240 · 11-05-2006, 08:08 AM

There aren't any places around here that give lifetime allignments for "race specs". However i have a place that will do 4 wheels allignment to my specs for 40 bucks. I understand it wont be PERFECT, but i want a starting place and i'm sure there are SOME people on zilvia who really know their allignment shit.

I'm surprised no one has even mentioned caster yet. :-(

Yes, the tires are large but they look/work just fine. (i know, i know, i'm not in with the in crowd because i'm not rocking 205's on a 10 inch rim...)Sometimes you gotta use what you have/can afford.

hitman · 11-05-2006, 10:21 AM

i said 8 caster?

wootwoot · 11-05-2006, 11:21 AM

People wont warranty race spec alignments because its going to wear your tires like shit unless you actually drive the car. The alignment is not going to hold well if you are actually driving it hard to boot.

faded1004 · 11-05-2006, 11:30 AM

hey gotta240, where you at? where is the place for the 40 buck alignment? can i get it for 40?

Maeda · 11-05-2006, 11:33 AM

-2.0 degrees camber up front, -1.0 in the rear.
Half a degree or less of toe out in the front.
ZERO toe in the rear.
A few degrees more caster in the front.

Set your coilovers pretty soft in the rear and adjust bumpsteer to match your ride height.

Enjoy.

McRussellPants · 11-05-2006, 11:52 AM

Next time I get my alignment set its gonna be.

Camber 3.2F 1.7R
Caster 9
Toe .25IN on both axles

Quote:

Originally Posted by David @ Touge Factory

Neglecting to get an alignment or improper alignment can hurt performance and make driving un-fun. This will be very basic explanation of different settings (recommended race settings are for a rear wheel drive car, 240sx etc)

Camber - During cornering a tire will get maximum traction at negative camber due to bodyroll, tire roll, suspension travel. By adding stiffer coilovers you can minimize the movement and it will help keep the static settings. Fronts will see more load so more camber is recommended. Camber plates and adjustable rear upper control arm recommended. Good starting point - 3deg front/ 1.5 deg rear

Caster - Positive steering pivot angle helps with high speed stability,cornering response and helps straighten the steering when going forward. Generally speaking more caster is better. Too much caster will make the steering feel heavy. Excessive caster will add negative camber to the outside wheel during turning, altering static camber settings. Sometimes you will lose some steering angle. Adjustable tension rods recommended. Good starting point - 1-2 deg over stock setting.

TOE - Front: Toe in (not recommended) will help with straight line stability, encourages understeer. Toe out (advanced driver) will enhance turn-in response, encourages oversteer, too much will create bump steer and scrub. Good starting point - 0 toe or slight toe out

Rear: Toe in will help with stability under acceleration, good control at high speeds, encourages understeer Toe out - ( not recommended, advanced driver) Car will feel funny(4ws), hard to control under acceleration, very easy to go sideways. Good starting point - 0 toe or slight toe in

Dousan_PG · 11-05-2006, 12:25 PM

-3.5 front
-2 rear
0 toe everywhere
slight up on the front caster over stock but not much.

naed240sx · 11-05-2006, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotta240

There aren't any places around here that give lifetime allignments for "race specs". However i have a place that will do 4 wheels allignment to my specs for 40 bucks.

Meh, you don't need some badass race alignment shop to do camber/castor/toe. Just make sure you get a decent tech. Places like NTB will do the 1 or 3 or 5 year alignment plans, and you can go in pretty often. Just make sure you go back in the bay when the tech starts working on the car and tell him what specs you want. Unless you have adjustable LCA's or something that you need setup correctly, there is no point in going to a race alignment shop.

chmercer · 11-05-2006, 01:07 PM

dousans specs are pretty good, although personally i go for a little toe in on the front to keep the car from wandering around on the highway. sacrifices a little performance for more drivability.

im prob gonna be running 3 front rear, stock toe, 8 ish caster. if i can fit it without rubbing gonna try 2.5 front 3 rear but thats more drifty less gripy

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotta240

There aren't any places around here that give lifetime allignments for "race specs". However i have a place that will do 4 wheels allignment to my specs for 40 bucks. I understand it wont be PERFECT, but i want a starting place and i'm sure there are SOME people on zilvia who really know their allignment shit.

I'm surprised no one has even mentioned caster yet. :-(

Yes, the tires are large but they look/work just fine. (i know, i know, i'm not in with the in crowd because i'm not rocking 205's on a 10 inch rim...)Sometimes you gotta use what you have/can afford.

Yeah...YMMV since you have a friend there...around here lifetime alignments are the typical 'in spec' deals. Also they have disclaimers against any suspension/car modifications or accidents. Just normal wear and tear is allowed.

Jefferson · 11-05-2006, 07:42 PM

I have the camber set at -2.0 all the way around
Caster is at like 7.8-7.9
And I usually try to get the toe as close to zero all around

Next time I think I am going to take out some camber up front and kick up the caster to like 8.4
Pretty much I just change it after every event to see where I feel the most comfortable at.

gotta240 · 11-07-2006, 12:46 AM

thanks for the ideas guys!!!

So i think i'll be at about 8 on caster, .5 toe out, and -3 front, -2 rear camber.

sound like a good starting point?

1Via! · 11-07-2006, 01:05 AM

Id say stay away from the toe out. Make sure its zero toe up front. If you want, a little toe in in the rear.
I have minimal (less than .5 toe in) toe in for the rear at the moment. On s13s especially when the car squats the rear will toe out. Thats why I toe it in a bit. S14s rear suspension supposedly address the squat issue, but i would do the same on a s14, just to err on the safe side, or at lest until I could tell otherwise.

I also agree with everyone who has said to get rear adjustable camber and toe arms. Stock ones are :ghey: on many levels.

sw20>>s14 · 11-07-2006, 02:11 AM

well like stated before...you need to state your goals a bit more clearer...there are a lot of aggressive alignments in this thread and people who do different things with their cars...for instance, general toe settings for people who are into drifting is zero toe...but if youre into road racing (and im not talking toughey) and auto x, you may want some toe out in the front for more turn in...and to take caster to the maximum within stock spec (iirc, 6.8 or something) for auto x...etc. etc. etc...so you should ask yourself what youre gonna do with the car first and foremost...

gotta240 · 11-07-2006, 07:16 AM

Drifting yo! I wanna hit 'em turns at mad crazy angles like they do in korea!! Drifterz rulz!!!!

lol...sorry.

sw20

My main goal is auto-x and handling..... thanks

aznpoopy · 11-07-2006, 07:59 AM

get the car corner weighed if you haven't

Replicant_S14 · 11-07-2006, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotta240

thanks for the ideas guys!!!

So i think i'll be at about 8 on caster, .5 toe out, and -3 front, -2 rear camber.

sound like a good starting point?

I smell tires

McRussellPants · 11-07-2006, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotta240

My main goal is auto-x and handling..... thanks

Camber will depend on the tires.

Hoosiers will make peak grip at 4.5+ degrees, grandmas all seasons will make it at 10

Macpherson struts on lowered high spring rate cars need alot of static camber.

Autocross gets a heap of toe out as well.

Setting up a car to do autcross well would be lame since over 70mph you'd probably end up in a ditch.

turtl631 · 11-07-2006, 01:20 PM

Toe is what really wears tires, so just be smart about it. I run like 1/8" toe in front and rear on my S14, to keep the back in check and because when actually driving, the front suspension is pushed back slightly and gets pretty close to 0 toe, thus saving your tires during daily driving. I also run like 8* caster, 2.5* camber front, about 2* camber in back. This setup is for open track use, and some street driving with 245/40 Kumho MXs. I have perfectly even tire wear after 3 track events, an autoX, and about 5000 miles of street driving, city and highway. For more autoX use, you might want to go with 0 toe in back, but it will definitely be a little more squirrely. Get some toe plates and you can tweak it yourself to see what suits your driving style best.

gotta240 · 11-07-2006, 04:31 PM

thanks again for all your time guys...

I suppose i should have been more specific.

Basically i'm setting this up for optimum handling. I'll try to explain the situation.

The car is driven on on weekends and sometimes to and from school. Driven in mountains and backroads often. SOMETIMES it will make a trip from san diego to L.A(couple hundred miles roundtrip). I DONT want to set the car up for auto-x but i would like a happy median...Maybe between daily and auto-x ( i know, its not really ideal)

Basically, if the car is driven 4 hours, 3 of it is in back roads/mountains where optimum handling(between speeds of 10 and 80mph) is prefered. Kinda make sence now?

I'm also considering swapping to 285/35/18 rear tires, and 255/35/18 fronts.

Again, sorry to sound like an idiot...i guess i didn't explain so well, and i didn't know that setting a car up for auto-x would make it so terrible to drive on the highways.

I'm deff. sticking with -3 or -2.5 camber front and -2 rear as a starting point.

Rear toe i'm thinink at 0. Front i'm still inclined to try .5 OUT to help with turn in, but some say not to... why not a little?

For caster, still thinking near 8 as thats what many recomend.

sncs14 · 11-07-2006, 06:50 PM

Look through here
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ghlight=camber

sw20>>s14 · 11-07-2006, 07:43 PM

your braking is going to suffer drastically at -3.0 degrees up front...esp for mountain driving...besides the aggressive camber, id say youre on to something...half a degree toe out in front seems perfect for a spirited driver that also DDs...glad you learned a thing or two...have fun and dont get frustrated if what you get isnt what you wanted...its a loooooooooong and drawn out process....

Creizai · 11-07-2006, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sw20>>s14

your braking is going to suffer drastically at -3.0 degrees up front...esp for mountain driving...besides the aggressive camber, id say youre on to something...half a degree toe out in front seems perfect for a spirited driver that also DDs...glad you learned a thing or two...have fun and dont get frustrated if what you get isnt what you wanted...its a loooooooooong and drawn out process....

Could you go into better detail on front camber and this "drastic loss of braking" because of -3.0 degree.

gotta240 · 11-07-2006, 11:21 PM

FUCK. SW20- I didn't think of the brake loss. SHIT. I suppose I want my cake and would like to eat it too!!! Whats so wrong with that! lol.

Creizai- I'm not an expert, and hopefully he will come back to give final word....however. Just by thinking of the way things work...
Negative camber in front will rock the top of the tire in. Meaning while rolling STRAIT you are essentially on the inner edges of the tire, and not the entire tread width. When stoping More contact patch usually = more braking ability.

So, now my question is... What is a happy median between camber effects on handling/braking. If i go much less than 2 i'm pretty sure my handling will suffer dramatically in the turns. Will neg. 3 really effect braking that much?

11-04-2006, 10:04 PM	#1
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	Any handling/allignment buffs out there? I'll soon be getting my allignment done and i would prefer to walk into the allighment shop with the specs i want my car set at... I figure its less for them to mess up, and i'll get a better end product. Can anyone give me specs they recomend for my driving/setup? S14 with front and rear sway bars, nismo power brace, adj. tension rods, tie rods(adjustable bump steer), f and r strut bars, coilovers, camber plates in front and top hat in rear. The rear multilink is stock. rolling on 18" rims w/ 245/45/18 front and 255/45/18 rear. My main goal is traction and handling, and drifting is second priority. PLEASE...anyone have suggestions?

11-05-2006, 12:22 AM	#4
hitman Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: late 19th century prussia Age: 37 Posts: 1,057 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	i do my own alignments via toe plates and camber/caster gauge and turn plates as well as a long ass leveler, but i wouldnt consider my self an alignment buff lol. anyways i run front settings at -2.5 camber, 8* caster, and 0 toe. you can run toe out for "better turn in" but when you are at full lock if youre into drifting youll have major toe out due to the ackerman effect, but youll have that no matter what. i am at 0 toe front like i said and at near full lock it becomes like 3 inches of toe out. rear i run -1.5 camber, and like 1/16 toe in. toe in in the back gives it more grip and makes it tad more understeery, and the low camber also gives it good grip and makes tires wear decently for drifting. i would wait until you can get rear ruca, and atleast traction rod or toe link whatever those are called so you can actually make a good ammount of adjustment back there depending on your height you might need it. also, "rollin" on 45 series for 18 inch wheels is kidna tall for a 240sx. just set your tie rods at max adjustment for bump steer i guess since the shop you are going to (whichever you choose) probably doesnt have a bump steer gauge. __________________ driftparty.com

11-05-2006, 10:21 AM	#8
hitman Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: late 19th century prussia Age: 37 Posts: 1,057 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	i said 8 caster? __________________ driftparty.com

11-05-2006, 11:21 AM	#9
wootwoot Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: sarasota florida biatch Age: 39 Posts: 3,850 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	People wont warranty race spec alignments because its going to wear your tires like shit unless you actually drive the car. The alignment is not going to hold well if you are actually driving it hard to boot. __________________ I'm from Florida so I'm probably a bit more strange than you

11-05-2006, 11:33 AM	#11
Maeda Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Camp Snake Bite, CA RIP Posts: 2,356 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: Maeda Feedback Score: 0 reviews	-2.0 degrees camber up front, -1.0 in the rear. Half a degree or less of toe out in the front. ZERO toe in the rear. A few degrees more caster in the front. Set your coilovers pretty soft in the rear and adjust bumpsteer to match your ride height. Enjoy. __________________

11-04-2006, 11:48 PM	#3
ManoNegra Guild of Skullduggerous Intent Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Socal Posts: 7,841 Trader Rating: (48) Feedback Score: 48 reviews	I'd wait till you get rucas to properly dial camber in the back. When ready, I recommend West End Alignment.

11-05-2006, 02:58 AM	#6
naed240sx Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 206 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Werd to the lifetime alignment plans. It's the only way to go when you have coilovers and other adjustable stuff. I get at least 12 alignments a year. You kinda have to figure out what you like for yourself, and whether or not you care about tire wear becomes and important issue as well. I personally run -2 to -2.2 front camber, -1.5 to -1.7 rear camber and 0 toe all around. It's a good grippy setup on the street and won't wear tires. General consensus is that -2 to -2.5 front camber and -1.5 to -2 rear are good ranges for grip driving with daily driven track s-chassis, probabably more camber if it is a dedicated track car. I can't comment on toe, because i don't fiddle with it much. Once again though, find a place that does lifetime alignments. It will allow you to play around with stuff more and change the height of your car at any time and still have an in spec alignment. You should also look into some smaller diameter tires. 255/45/18 is MASSIVE.

11-05-2006, 08:08 AM	#7
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	There aren't any places around here that give lifetime allignments for "race specs". However i have a place that will do 4 wheels allignment to my specs for 40 bucks. I understand it wont be PERFECT, but i want a starting place and i'm sure there are SOME people on zilvia who really know their allignment shit. I'm surprised no one has even mentioned caster yet. :-( Yes, the tires are large but they look/work just fine. (i know, i know, i'm not in with the in crowd because i'm not rocking 205's on a 10 inch rim...)Sometimes you gotta use what you have/can afford.

11-05-2006, 11:30 AM	#10
faded1004 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 534 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	hey gotta240, where you at? where is the place for the 40 buck alignment? can i get it for 40?

11-05-2006, 12:25 PM	#13
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 46 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	-3.5 front -2 rear 0 toe everywhere slight up on the front caster over stock but not much. __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

11-05-2006, 01:07 PM	#15
chmercer BANNED Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: texas! Age: 39 Posts: 3,288 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	dousans specs are pretty good, although personally i go for a little toe in on the front to keep the car from wandering around on the highway. sacrifices a little performance for more drivability. im prob gonna be running 3 front rear, stock toe, 8 ish caster. if i can fit it without rubbing gonna try 2.5 front 3 rear but thats more drifty less gripy

11-05-2006, 07:42 PM	#17
Jefferson Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 394 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I have the camber set at -2.0 all the way around Caster is at like 7.8-7.9 And I usually try to get the toe as close to zero all around Next time I think I am going to take out some camber up front and kick up the caster to like 8.4 Pretty much I just change it after every event to see where I feel the most comfortable at.

11-07-2006, 12:46 AM	#18
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	thanks for the ideas guys!!! So i think i'll be at about 8 on caster, .5 toe out, and -3 front, -2 rear camber. sound like a good starting point?

11-07-2006, 01:05 AM	#19
1Via! Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Seattle/Olympia, WA Age: 39 Posts: 510 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: 1Via! Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Id say stay away from the toe out. Make sure its zero toe up front. If you want, a little toe in in the rear. I have minimal (less than .5 toe in) toe in for the rear at the moment. On s13s especially when the car squats the rear will toe out. Thats why I toe it in a bit. S14s rear suspension supposedly address the squat issue, but i would do the same on a s14, just to err on the safe side, or at lest until I could tell otherwise. I also agree with everyone who has said to get rear adjustable camber and toe arms. Stock ones are :ghey: on many levels.

11-07-2006, 02:11 AM	#20
sw20>>s14 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: bay area Posts: 5,656 Trader Rating: (19) Feedback Score: 19 reviews	well like stated before...you need to state your goals a bit more clearer...there are a lot of aggressive alignments in this thread and people who do different things with their cars...for instance, general toe settings for people who are into drifting is zero toe...but if youre into road racing (and im not talking toughey) and auto x, you may want some toe out in the front for more turn in...and to take caster to the maximum within stock spec (iirc, 6.8 or something) for auto x...etc. etc. etc...so you should ask yourself what youre gonna do with the car first and foremost... __________________ s14\| y34\| 911 gts\| exige s\| 600rr\| r3\| 250r\| 85 girlfriend

11-07-2006, 07:16 AM	#21
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	Drifting yo! I wanna hit 'em turns at mad crazy angles like they do in korea!! Drifterz rulz!!!! lol...sorry. sw20 My main goal is auto-x and handling..... thanks

11-07-2006, 07:59 AM	#22
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	get the car corner weighed if you haven't

11-07-2006, 01:20 PM	#25
turtl631 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Milwaukee WI Posts: 900 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Toe is what really wears tires, so just be smart about it. I run like 1/8" toe in front and rear on my S14, to keep the back in check and because when actually driving, the front suspension is pushed back slightly and gets pretty close to 0 toe, thus saving your tires during daily driving. I also run like 8* caster, 2.5* camber front, about 2* camber in back. This setup is for open track use, and some street driving with 245/40 Kumho MXs. I have perfectly even tire wear after 3 track events, an autoX, and about 5000 miles of street driving, city and highway. For more autoX use, you might want to go with 0 toe in back, but it will definitely be a little more squirrely. Get some toe plates and you can tweak it yourself to see what suits your driving style best.

11-07-2006, 04:31 PM	#26
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	thanks again for all your time guys... I suppose i should have been more specific. Basically i'm setting this up for optimum handling. I'll try to explain the situation. The car is driven on on weekends and sometimes to and from school. Driven in mountains and backroads often. SOMETIMES it will make a trip from san diego to L.A(couple hundred miles roundtrip). I DONT want to set the car up for auto-x but i would like a happy median...Maybe between daily and auto-x ( i know, its not really ideal) Basically, if the car is driven 4 hours, 3 of it is in back roads/mountains where optimum handling(between speeds of 10 and 80mph) is prefered. Kinda make sence now? I'm also considering swapping to 285/35/18 rear tires, and 255/35/18 fronts. Again, sorry to sound like an idiot...i guess i didn't explain so well, and i didn't know that setting a car up for auto-x would make it so terrible to drive on the highways. I'm deff. sticking with -3 or -2.5 camber front and -2 rear as a starting point. Rear toe i'm thinink at 0. Front i'm still inclined to try .5 OUT to help with turn in, but some say not to... why not a little? For caster, still thinking near 8 as thats what many recomend.

11-07-2006, 06:50 PM	#27
sncs14 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: May 2005 Location: Las Vegas Age: 42 Posts: 1,003 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: sncs14 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Look through here http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ghlight=camber

11-07-2006, 07:43 PM	#28
sw20>>s14 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: bay area Posts: 5,656 Trader Rating: (19) Feedback Score: 19 reviews	your braking is going to suffer drastically at -3.0 degrees up front...esp for mountain driving...besides the aggressive camber, id say youre on to something...half a degree toe out in front seems perfect for a spirited driver that also DDs...glad you learned a thing or two...have fun and dont get frustrated if what you get isnt what you wanted...its a loooooooooong and drawn out process.... __________________ s14\| y34\| 911 gts\| exige s\| 600rr\| r3\| 250r\| 85 girlfriend

11-07-2006, 11:21 PM	#30
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	FUCK. SW20- I didn't think of the brake loss. SHIT. I suppose I want my cake and would like to eat it too!!! Whats so wrong with that! lol. Creizai- I'm not an expert, and hopefully he will come back to give final word....however. Just by thinking of the way things work... Negative camber in front will rock the top of the tire in. Meaning while rolling STRAIT you are essentially on the inner edges of the tire, and not the entire tread width. When stoping More contact patch usually = more braking ability. So, now my question is... What is a happy median between camber effects on handling/braking. If i go much less than 2 i'm pretty sure my handling will suffer dramatically in the turns. Will neg. 3 really effect braking that much?