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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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Hey, everyone...I belong to a Black 1997 240SX SE that I have been with since she was new. She's my daily driver an' I've yet to be disappointed once in the last 5 years. Anyhow, I'd like to kick it up a notch. Over the last few months, I've developed a "shopping list", and I would like some comments t'see if what I am looking at is what I want. I'm not worried about top end <cringe> don't beat me! I called JWT a few months back and Jim Wolf himself told me that with his ECU and NO OTHER mods, the 97SE would hit 135MPH. I that works fine for me. Anyhow, I like the twisty-turnies.
I already have these mods: Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch Eibach Pro-Kit Spring Suspension Techniques Swaybar Kit This is my shopping list: JWT Pop-Charger Injen CAI Mustang Cobra MAF AEM Bypass Valve TopEnd Racing 65mm Throttle Body Extrude Honed and Port-matched Intake Manifold Race-ported, CC'd Cylinder Head 11:1 JE Pistons JWT Cams Greddy Header Apex'i N1 Dual Cat-back Exhaust JWT ECU MSD Ignition System 300ZX TT Brake Upgrade KVR Rotors KVR Carbon Kevlar Brake Pads PDM Brake Lines HKS Upper Pillowball Mounts GAB Super HP Struts Cusco OS STB Front & Rear Do-Luck Rear Crossover Bar Nismo Motor and Transmission Mounts Nismo Suspension Bushings C's Short-throw Shifter Nismo Shift Knob Momo Jet Steering Wheel Sparco Milano Seats Carbon Fibre Dash Kit Ducati Monster Dark Paint Nissan Chin Spoiler Rear Stock SE Rims Widened (for 245/45R16 tires) Stock Rims Powdercoated Gunmetal <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> Well??? Also...one last question in this post...are pulleys practical for everyday use? Thanks
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#2 |
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Got Money?
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#3 |
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (PSI240SX @ July 13 2002,10:55)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Got Money?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Geez, I think he hit the lottery or somehting. I would love to see a huge wooden crate of parts show up at my front door, then take like a week off to install it all. About pulleys, well, same as a lightened flywheel. It eliminates unsprung wieght (I think). I did hear they are harsh on your internals though, becasue they don't have a dampners to reduce vibration. Theya re the best bang for buck though. I just skimmed your list, but did you want to add cams? Might sacrifice a bit of idle stability, but it'll add it up top. I know you don't want top end though. A mild cam will give improvements though. Heck, if you cut off some of these items, you could probably just turbo that KA. Jeff EDIT- I'm a dumbass, you have cams listed <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>
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wow thats a lot of stuff... i think turboing that ka will cost you less than all of that you just wrote.. but i think you're going N/A... right? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>
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1st.. there really isn't a reason for the popcharger.. it's just a metal velocity stack that goes into the filter.. the filter already has a velocity stack built in.
2nd.. not sure JWT has a program for the Cobra MAF with Stock injectors. However that probably would give you a couple pnies b/c of freeing up intake restriction. 3rd.. DO NOT GET AEM Bypass valve.. I've never heard a good thing about it. besides it won't fit on the injen intake. 4th.. Go with Porterfiled R4-S brake pads.. I think they are quite a bit better than the KVR's (or anything else for that matter) 5th.. Pulleys are fine for everyday use. the best way to reduce rotational mass is to get a light weight flywheel b/c then you keep the Harmonic dampner that is on the crank now. But I've never heard of an engine failing b/c of pulleys. and I kno wseveral guys that have had them on for 2-3 years. Also UR now has a full pulley set. just fyi if you didn't know. 6th.. Couldn't you get a touch longer rod to increase compression? that would also allow the engine rev higher too. Just b/c the stock pistons are cast, doesn't mean they are weak. If I was going to spend all that money, I would probably buy stiffer valve springs, and new larger valve as well. That way you can get a little higher RPM outta the engine and make use of a little bit wilder cam profile.
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I wanna be this guys new friend, he apparently is Bill Gates, and owns the world.
Thats a LOT of money there hombre, hope to see it come together. As for the list its self, a suggestion for the headers. I was told the quality and bukd of the GReddy header system was less then quality, Somthing about the joints cracking I think.
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#7 |
Lesse if I can field everythin' here <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
![]() Got Money? Geez, I think he hit the lottery or somehting. I would love to see a huge wooden crate of parts show up at my front door, then take like a week off to install it all. I understand that is isn't a hobby that someone who is super strapped fer dinero, or time should not be doin'. I have a bit of monthly disposable income that I'd like to throw into my car. It's not like I'm gonna do it overnight either. I need t'find the time an' work my schedule to take leave to get this work done. I'm hoping to complete this by March 2003. Also, I'm lucky enough not to hafta worry about labour costs. (Dad has his own shop in Asheville, NC) Plus, I have his connections to get a hold of some stuff cheaper than normal, or even better at a ridiculous price. (He found Z32 TT calipers in fantastic condition for $50 a pop) Heck, if you cut off some of these items, you could probably just turbo that KA i think turboing that ka will cost you less than all of that you just wrote.. but i think you're going N/A... right? I'd rather not go turbo...I like the idea of reliablity and ease of maintenance of staying N/A. I had an '89 RX-7 Turbo...while the boost was fun...I like the S14 way gooder! I think for what I am looking for an' the way I like to drive...lotsa twisty-turnies...N/A is the way to go. Now, you guys have mucho more experience and knowledge than I do...this is why I am deferring to you an' placing this post. I really appreciate the constructive comments. (however...I already KNOW that this project is gonna be bucks) Thanx...please keep 'em comin'.... <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>
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Mach 3, 500ft off the deck, inverted and it's dark....next?! |
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Actually turbochargers are less stressful on an engine then high HP n/a applications, not trying to change your mind just thought I should say that <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/whatsthat.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':whatthe:'> Good luck.
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ July 14 2002,10:52)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">6th.. Couldn't you get a touch longer rod to increase compression? that would also allow the engine rev higher too. Just b/c the stock pistons are cast, doesn't mean they are weak. If I was going to spend all that money, I would probably buy stiffer valve springs, and new larger valve as well. That way you can get a little higher RPM outta the engine and make use of a little bit wilder cam profile.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
You got that backwards, longer rods limit revs. engines with big stroke make the power down low, and have lots of torque...
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longer rods equal more revs b/c they have a much smaller angle of rotation, and the rod has to move less than a short rod.. Shorter rods make more torque, and less rpms.
When you hear "Big Stroke" it means the piston is moving farther.. The rod has nothing to do with that. The crank determines the stroke of the car.
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ok.. nevermind lengthing the rod. you couldn't lengthen the rod with out getting a custom crank that had shorter rod journals, or possibly custom pistons with the rod connecting pin moved further up the piston, b/c essentially longer rods would destroke the engine, and I don't think there is enough room on top op the piston before it hits the head to do any effective lengthening.
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Longer rods would not destroke the engine. Messing with the crank would, though.
Only changes to the crankshaft itself affect stroke. That's be an awful way to add compression, by the way, since you'd have the cost of custom rods and then you'd have to worry about the piston smacking the head. Better to get flat top pistons - and for a KA24DE all you need is a set from an '89 KA24E. Cheap and they work. |
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (AKADriver @ July 14 2002,9:59)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Longer rods would not destroke the engine. Messing with the crank would, though.
Only changes to the crankshaft itself affect stroke. That's be an awful way to add compression, by the way, since you'd have the cost of custom rods and then you'd have to worry about the piston smacking the head. Better to get flat top pistons - and for a KA24DE all you need is a set from an '89 KA24E. Cheap and they work.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> It would destroke the engine b/c you couldn't use longer rods without adjusting the crank to match. Longer rods by themselves would not destroke it. I know that. But you can't simply install longer rods without changing stroke b/c of Head clearance issues. (unless of course there was someway to move the connectiing point on the piston further up the piston. This wouldn't de-stroke the motor and would allow for a longer rod.)
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I think you're just confused on how to spend your money..
Mustang Cobra MAF - stock maf is fine for n/a AEM Bypass Valve - nope TopEnd Racing 65mm Throttle Body - how much is this? MSD Ignition System - no benefit, you dont need extra spark Do-Luck Rear Crossover Bar - no one has them, dont be a hero Rear Stock SE Rims Widened (for 245/45R16 tires) - is there such a thing? there you have it, these are the things I wouldn't recommand. But the smart choice will be a quick spoolin turbo with low boost for reliability.
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">6th.. Couldn't you get a touch longer rod to increase compression? that would also allow the engine rev higher too. Just b/c the stock pistons are cast, doesn't mean they are weak. If I was going to spend all that money, I would probably buy stiffer valve springs, and new larger valve as well. That way you can get a little higher RPM outta the engine and make use of a little bit wilder cam profile.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
i forgot if it was possible because of the valves location on the head but couldnt u just shave and deck the head alittle bit to raise the compression, i know we do that on my motorcross bike for more compresion but that is a 2-stroke. i dont remember if it was possible when i had my engine out and apart. the valves might be too close. if it is possible, it would be alot cheaper than pistons
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#17 |
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Since eibach springs are listed as something you already have, I would put your new shocks/struts at the top of your list. I drove around on lowered springs, rear koni's and stock front struts (due to a shipping error) for two weeks, and my car rode like ass. It was FAR worse than stock. Having the new koni's up front is like night and day. Trust me, the stock shocks cannot handle the increased load/shortened stoke that lowering springs create. For your goals, new dampers and sway bars (bushings if needed) would be my first order.
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (boosteds14 @ July 15 2002,11:43)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">6th.. Couldn't you get a touch longer rod to increase compression? that would also allow the engine rev higher too. Just b/c the stock pistons are cast, doesn't mean they are weak. If I was going to spend all that money, I would probably buy stiffer valve springs, and new larger valve as well. That way you can get a little higher RPM outta the engine and make use of a little bit wilder cam profile.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
i forgot if it was possible because of the valves location on the head but couldnt u just shave and deck the head alittle bit to raise the compression, i know we do that on my motorcross bike for more compresion but that is a 2-stroke. i dont remember if it was possible when i had my engine out and apart. the valves might be too close. if it is possible, it would be alot cheaper than pistons</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> there is room to shave and deck the head on the 240. I've seen 1 or 2 done that way, but I think you can only get a touch more compression that way.. so it's not very common.
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