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Old 03-21-2007, 06:20 PM   #1
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Bad temp sensor=bown motor??!?! FUCK. HELP

Temp guage was showing perfectly normal. Car started making ticking noise and loosing power. Car would turn itself off when coasting on the freeway. Pulled off the nearest exit to see what the deal was.

Coolant hose popped off radiator, was driving 10 minutes with NO FUCKING WATER.

When running the ka24de THAT HOT, THAT LONG, is it probable i blew the entire motor? Or am i just looking at a new head? HELP PLEASE
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:28 PM   #2
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fill with water, crank engine with radiator cap off.

You'll have your answer.
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:55 PM   #3
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The head gasket is BAD FOR SURE. The head is FUCKED i'm assuming from such high heat. The car DOES spit water with the cap off(bad h.g) and the car has NO COMPRESSION... Feels like cranking over a motor with no head on it.

My real question is, how possible is it for a ka24de BLOCK to be screwed from EXTREME HEAT. I mean, TRYING TO BLOW THE MOTOR UP HEAT. RUNNING THE CAR ON THE FREEWAY FOR 10 MINUTES WITH NO WATER HEAT.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:50 PM   #4
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Personally, I wouldnt even mess with it. Just get another one, even if you ARE going to rebuild, start with a motor that wasnt overheated to the extreme.
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:34 PM   #5
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Iron loves heat, but the head is warped to fuck and back.

I don't know how many times I typed it, but here it is again:

DO NOT TRUST THE OE GUAGE

It's shit and useless. You learned the hard way.
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:14 PM   #6
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Yeah, the OE guage will read just a hair over the middle at 220F, which is F'd in my book.

Furthermore, it will read fine, with only air passing by it, which is what happend to you.

GG ka.
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R240NA
Iron loves heat, but the head is warped to fuck and back.

I don't know how many times I typed it, but here it is again:

DO NOT TRUST THE OE GUAGE

It's shit and useless. You learned the hard way.

what do you recommend getting instead?
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:43 AM   #8
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Well just to put it out there. There are two temp sensors, one that is complete shit, and one that is really good. If you have an ems system, you can calibrate it to read the EXACT temp off this sensor.

The dummy guage blows.
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Old 03-22-2007, 02:07 AM   #9
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Please don't start this whole guage thing in this thread guys. I know the stock guage is bad, and it fucked me in this situation royally.

My question is- Given i heated the motor to the point of it ticking, losing power, and turning off with NO WATER AT ALL, do you think the iron block and rods/pistons/rings/bearings etc are ok and i can just replace the head, or should i be looking for an entire motor?

Thanks again for the replies.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reccakun08
what do you recommend getting instead?
A real gauge. The OE unit is a three way switch, cold, normal, and hot. Normal can be anywhere from 170 degrees to 230 degrees.

gotta240- There's no way to know the damage until you pull the engine apart. The head is most likely toast, but enough heat can damage the pistons too, putting them out of round. You'll also more than likely need a knock sensor, the plastic housing melts pretty easily when the block gets that hot.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngriff
Well just to put it out there. There are two temp sensors, one that is complete shit, and one that is really good. If you have an ems system, you can calibrate it to read the EXACT temp off this sensor.

The dummy guage blows.
They are both pretty much complete shit, reading off the ems is the way to go.

I would still reccomend an after market gauge or brand new oem sensor, thats waht i did.

The one in the display gauge in dash just routes a ground circuit iirc. theres not two fully independent sensors on older model nissans that route information intot he car...

**R240NA** got it right , thanks

To orig poster: Take your car to a good machine shop an dhave them use a straigth ede wtiha feeler gauge then compare to oem "you could do taht yourself" but you seem kind of flustered. Re-machining (not jsut resurfacing the head) but machining to make up for minor warp is like 25 bucks at a good machine shop.

hope everything works out for you.

cheers
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:19 PM   #12
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thanks. I have a spare head, its the block i'm worried about.

I can swap the heads myself, but my schedule is VERY VERY limited and would hate to waste that much time if my block is toast. Sounds like there is a decent change i messed up my pistons with that much heat...

I'm guessing the ticking is the bearings, but not sure.. Sorry to beat this into the ground...lol. I guess i'm still debating on looking for a motor or just throwing a head on.

Last edited by gotta240; 03-23-2007 at 11:38 PM..
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:34 PM   #13
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Ticking would prolly be bearings and losing power from bad compression which was shit so your piston rings are bad, then it shut it self off probably because there was so much heat it seized your pistons in the block. Id say do a rebuild on it, check the crank and rods but get new bearings and pistons and rings most likely with a bore or hone to make sure the cylinders are still round.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:51 PM   #14
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Just get a new replacement engine. Unless you are up for a full rebuild, more than likely the deck will be too far out of spec, and need to be broken down to be re-decked by a machine shop.

There are TWO coolant sensors in the neck, one, a thermistor(coolant temp sensor) to give an exact reading temp/resistance, the other a switch(thermal transmitter). Switch to cluster, thermistor/resistance sensor to ecu.

The nissan Coolant temp sensor is better quality than the GM temp sensor.

A rebuild kit to run a resistance based servo to the back of the Temp guage would be a killer market for someone to jump on, tap resistance wire to ecu, dump to servo, dummy guage fixed.
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