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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Clutch Questions
Okay I' have been driving on my tranny swap for about 2500 miles now and I have a couple questions that maybe you guys can help me with.
1. I notice that the car has a hard time pulling at WOT past 5000 rpms only when it's cold. Could this be the clutch slipping? Maybe due to poor quality clutch? 2. I also notice a slight burning or hot smell coming from under the car near my feet and near the firewall, but only after I have the car warmed up and have driven at least 5 miles. Typically I drive no more than 10 miles per trip and most of it is freeway, less than average amount of shifting. Could this be due to poor quality clutch disc? Is this a sign that my clutch is wearing poorly? I bought a cheap F1 stage 1 street cltuch kit from ebay just to get the car running when I did the swap. I'm planning on swapping in a better clutch kit later on but, I'm curious as to how long this clutch will last me? I don't race with it and I do minimal spirited driving. And the car doesn't miss gears (unless I'm just being stupid) or fall out of gear once engaged, and the pedal still feels nice and smooth, good travel and return. Any info you guys have will help!! Thanks.
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#3 | |
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#4 |
Zilvia Addict
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the clutch has a distinct smell when burning.
If you think it's your cat then one cheap option is to take it off and hollow it out. If that doesn't fix the problem then it is most likely your clutch. If it is your clutch then I would get a new one. RPS clutches are one of the best IMO. You can find them @ turboclutch.com |
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#5 |
Nissanaholic!
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The cat is a new Magnaflow OEM replacement. And it did have a smell when I first fired it up for about 1 day. But this smell is different, kinda like a burning material smell. I'm pretty sure it's the clutch getting hot. Either way the car still shifts fine, I am just noticing the cheapness of it when I try to romp on it more than once. It seems to overheat rather easily.
Okay I've got another question for you guys: I hear a humming/whirring noise while my car is at idle, in neutral with the clutch pedal released. Now this sound will gradually disappear when I depress the clutch pedal, but then comes right back once I release the pedal. I can also hear it when the car is moving in gear but it changes with the rpms. What could this be? When I installed the clutch kit I put in brand new pilot and throw out bearings. I remember someone saying that it is the input shaft bearing. Any thoughts? Thanks alot guys.
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#7 |
Nissanaholic!
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I.....dont.....think....so...... it's pretty obvious which side goes towards the engine. The side that has the inner spinning face goes towards the engine right? At least i put it on the same way the old one came off. The other thing I ws thinking was maybe I put the clutch disc in backwards....could that be it?
If not what else could it be?
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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dude if you put the clutch disk in backwards you would have way more problems than you are right now. that is if it would even shift/drive at all. im gonna say its probly the cheapo clutch thats heating up and what you are smelling. as for your other noise i would say its probly the throwout bearing or the imput shaft bearing.
mike |
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#9 |
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+2 on bad clutch disc - prolly from not breaking it in properly.
Also from if your car is turboed - it doesnt have enough hold capacity for the torque that being put on it. If you have even a small turbo kit - use no less than a stage 2 - IMO I wouldnt use anything under stage 2 even on N/A stock car. I am using a Excedy OEM clutch on my swap - which I know I should have put a stg. 2 in but I got the Fidanza flywheel and the OEM clutch and didnt have the extra $ for the stg. 2 - I will upgrade it later. Its only a DD for now anyways. |
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#10 |
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It's just your clutch get it replaced and like misfitsfreak91 said exedy clutches are really good and the act clucth is good also if you need a hook up on that Ill drop by my number so we could hook you up bro just msg me.
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to honestly know if ur clutch is drastically slipping... is just drive it with the foot to the floor... your rpm needle should jump up and then catch up to the actual rpm as it decreases... thats how u really know... or the smell...
if u do decide to buy a new clutch just get an oem one...
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#12 |
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Okay thanks guys.
I went with a SPEC stage 1 organic clutch. And I went ahead with a fidanza flywheel. I'm pretty sure it's the clutch being cheapo brand. I'm gonna do the clutch job prolly next weekend. And I'll let you guys now how it drives. Also I'm pretty sure I didnt break it in properly..... ![]() Now that I'm thinking about it, I should just get a stage 2..... makes sense. I'll call them to upgrade it since I just put the order in like 5 min ago. The cost increase is minimal. Thanks guys for the input.
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#13 | |
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Dont forget to replace your pilot bushing too! And if you run into trouble pulling the pilot bushing out or anything LMK - [email protected] - I have a few tricks up my sleeve - seeing as I just finished one myself. |
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#14 |
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did you replace your rear make seal?
sounds to me u got a lil oil leakin on to your clutch.
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#16 |
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Yep i did that on the 2nd time around.
Originally I did the tranny swap and installed the clutch, but I was leaking alot of oil from the somewhere inside the bell housing. So I pulled the tranny off, removed the clutch/flywheel and did the rear main, I also re-did the front seal and gasket on the transmission. No more leaks, but maybe I had already got oil on the disc? It looked okay when I pulled it off and I hadn't even gotten 500 miles on the tranny swap before I did the seals.... well either way I've already ordered the flywheel and clutch (stage 2 ![]() Thanks again for the help!!!
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#17 |
Zilvia Member
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re
about the smell I had a plastic bag get stuck on my down pipe. I couldn't figure out why my car always had a burning smell until I noticed the melted plastic all over my exhuast. check for that too.
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#18 |
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No it's not that kind of burning smell.
I'm just waiting on the clutch kit, then I'm gonna do the job. I'll have pics soon.
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#20 |
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UPDATE:
Finally got the clutch/flywheel installed. Everything went smoothly, aside from my splitting migraine right after i got back from the test drive. I think it was all the smells, and the straining I did from lifting the tranny back in by myself. Yeah I'm badass. Anyways, all the problems I had are now gone. The humming/grinding at idle coming from the shifter is gone. And the acceleration kicking I had is also gone. I think it was just poor break in period and faulty throw out bearing. I took pics of most of the removal process I'll post them up tonight. During the job I also installed an eBay aluminum crank pulley with new front seal. Well the seal was the root of my oil leak. Even after I changed the oil pan gasket, and rear main on my last tranny pull, the car was STILL leaking. Turns out the front seal was leaking bad enough to run back all the way to the tranny. So now my shits tight as a drum. The only bad thing about the pulley install was that the new eBay pulley doesn't come with timing marks. And to make them properly you have to compensate for the smaller diameter. I didn't feel like doing this so I'm just going to wait for my brother to buy his UR pulley and just swap the timing marks over to mine. Should work perfect since mine is an exact replica of the UR pulley. Here's the belt sizes I used, the instructions that came with the pulley are retarded. this is for the S13 KADE, other years might be different! Alternator - 4PK0725, stock belt was 4PK0775. 725mm fits perfect. PS/Water Pump - 3PK0980, stock belt was 3PK0995. 980mm fits perfect. No A/C for ME!! I'll get the pics uploaded tonight. Overal since this was my third time pulling the tranny, I've gotten quite good at it. I learned how not to let the tranny rest on the input shaft when installing. Bought a 33 gallon Craftsman compressor brand new for $160 from Sears (open box item). Makes working alone so much easier. Reminds me of my shop days...... Figured out how to remove the crank pulley with air tools and only removing the fan to get to it (no A/C of course). I can't wait to get the clutch broken in so I can test out the new revs. Thanks guys for all your help. If anyone has any questions regarding my install just ask. later.
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#21 |
Leaky Injector
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Just a little advice on installing clutches. 1) Resurface flywheel which you didn't mention doing 2)Replace main seal, pilot & release bearing 3)Torque clutch cover proggresively in a crossing pattern 4) adjust clutch correct specs 5) Break in slowly, NO Burnouts or Redline shifts to see if you new clutch works good!!
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#22 |
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Um, yeah. you need to read the previous posts. All that has been replaced. I installed a fidanza flywheel, SPEC stage 2 clutch kit. The pressure plate (not clutch cover, WTF?) has been torqued to the proper 20 ft/lbs. in the six point star pattern. And as for the break in, I'm currently doing that for the next 500 miles.
Thanks for the advice, but almost all of that stuff is pretty obvious. Anyone who doesn't know to do that shouldn't be doing a clutch job.
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#24 |
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um....
http://www.specclutch.com/ click products, then click stage two. yeah haha....that's hilarious.
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