Autometer gauges - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

uiuc240 · 09-09-2002, 09:59 AM

What are the other boost-happy people running out there?  My Autometer Phantom boost gauge doesn't hold it's adjustment at all.  Over the past few months, it's crept up to about 2.5 psi when the car is OFF.  Yeah, lame.

So this weekend, I took the gauge out, took the bulb out, and stuck a screwdriver on the ring that "adjusts" the gauge and brought it back to zero (bent it until it was Zero at rest).  Put it back in the car.  Worked fine.  But now it reads about 3 in-Hg vacuum when the car is off.  I can't win.  I'm going to scrap the whole thing when money allows and get a better gauge.  What do you recommend?  GReddy?  Defi?  Blitz?  Nordskog?

Eric

nrcooled · 09-09-2002, 10:09 AM

Mine sits just below 0 in the little "]" shapped thingie actually near the bottom of the "]" thing. I really hope that made some sense <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/eh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':eh:'> When I adjusted mine it did the exact same thing but it just went right back to where it was

But it does its job my next gauge will be EGT

Edit: I just read my post and I am, truely, a moron....a fvcking moron.  I hate Mondays <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'>  <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':angry:'>

Yoshi · 09-09-2002, 10:17 AM

crap, i thought autometer gauges were supposed to be pretty decent, but I guess not <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='

'>  I'll be needing some of these badboys soon, but I've no idea what gauges to get... keep us in the loops guys <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='

'>

nrcooled · 09-09-2002, 10:23 AM

But I think the price difference is worth a little hassle.  The price on the Blitz and Apex'i gauges is rediculous $150-200 for a gauge is stupid so for $45 bucks I will take the little innacuracy.   hell for that amount of money take it back and buy another <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='

'>

uiuc240 · 09-09-2002, 10:24 AM

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Yoshi @ Sep. 09 2002,11:17)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">crap, i thought autometer gauges were supposed to be pretty decent, but I guess not <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='

'> I'll be needing some of these badboys soon, but I've no idea what gauges to get... keep us in the loops guys <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='

'></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
my electric water temp gauge works great.  the mechanical ones just seem far too prone to "self-adjustment".  there's just a little round copper weighted band inside the gauge.  that provides the resistance to boost which then moves the needle.  complex, but simple i guess.  anyway, it's very delicately positioned, and it just gets out of whack.  sucky.

so i'm going to buy something else in the future.

Eric

bbp · 09-09-2002, 10:36 AM

I installed autometer gauges in my race car.  If you read the instructions it says that the meter will not read 0 when the car is not on.  It is supposed to be off a bit when turned off.  My tach read a couple hundred RPM when the car is not running, but is accurate when running.

note the power up instructions.

uiuc240 · 09-09-2002, 10:44 AM

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bbp @ Sep. 09 2002,11:36)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I installed autometer gauges in my race car. If you read the instructions it says that the meter will not read 0 when the car is not on. It is supposed to be off a bit when turned off. My tach read a couple hundred RPM when the car is not running, but is accurate when running.

note the power up instructions.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
The mechanical gauges (like I have for boost/vacuum) should read ZERO when off.  Yes, the electric ones go well below the low mark when off.  But I'm talking about the mech. ones.  It just doesn't hold adjustment well at all.  I mean, 5 minutes after I "fixed" it and put it back in the car, it started reading low (as opposed to high, like it did before...)

:thumbsdown:

Eric

boosteds14 · 09-09-2002, 11:23 AM

Ya, mine did that too but since i am too cheap i sent it back to autometer and they gave me another one. no problems now <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='

'>

*Jeff240sx* · 09-09-2002, 06:20 PM

Check the vaccuum line going into the gauge.  Mine is kinda funny.  My a-pillar hole I made kinks the vaccuum line, and my gauge works for a few hours, then I have to wiggle the line, and it works some more.  That could be a solution.
-Jeff

xhdriver · 09-09-2002, 09:07 PM

thats funny, because my boost works perfect, but my elec water temp is busted.
by the way, where did you tap the thermometer for your guage?

uiuc240 · 09-09-2002, 10:26 PM

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (xhdriver @ Sep. 09 2002,10:07)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">thats funny, because my boost works perfect, but my elec water temp is busted.
by the way, where did you tap the thermometer for your guage?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
6First off, my gauge is wrong ALL the time.  When the car is off, it doesn't rest at zero, and the amount that it is off corresponds to the amount it is off when driving.  For example, right now it's sitting at 4 in-Hg (vacuum) when off.  This means that max boost only reads 6 psi, as 4 in-Hg is roughly 1 psi.  So it's lame.

I tapped the water sender in to where the stock one used to be...right above the throttle body on the intake manifold.  You have to drill it out and tap the hole to make it work.  I'm using epoxy thread-maker and it's working fine.  With RTV it leaked like a sieve.

Eric

09-09-2002, 09:59 AM	#1
uiuc240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Naperville, IL Age: 46 Posts: 2,093 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	What are the other boost-happy people running out there?  My Autometer Phantom boost gauge doesn't hold it's adjustment at all.  Over the past few months, it's crept up to about 2.5 psi when the car is OFF.  Yeah, lame. So this weekend, I took the gauge out, took the bulb out, and stuck a screwdriver on the ring that "adjusts" the gauge and brought it back to zero (bent it until it was Zero at rest).  Put it back in the car.  Worked fine.  But now it reads about 3 in-Hg vacuum when the car is off.  I can't win.  I'm going to scrap the whole thing when money allows and get a better gauge.  What do you recommend?  GReddy?  Defi?  Blitz?  Nordskog? Eric __________________ 2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold)

09-09-2002, 10:09 AM	#2
nrcooled Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Turn 8 'bout to get rolled by a SC'd ITR Age: 46 Posts: 1,849 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Mine sits just below 0 in the little "]" shapped thingie actually near the bottom of the "]" thing. I really hope that made some sense <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/eh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':eh:'> When I adjusted mine it did the exact same thing but it just went right back to where it was But it does its job my next gauge will be EGT Edit: I just read my post and I am, truely, a moron....a fvcking moron.  I hate Mondays <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'>  <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':angry:'> __________________ '91 hatch w/ SR Sold; '03 Evo Sold 401 HP; '03 MS Protege sold; '00 Evo 6.5 TME Sold 300HP

09-09-2002, 10:17 AM	#3
Yoshi Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Washington Age: 48 Posts: 3,003 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: Yoshi Feedback Score: 1 reviews	crap, i thought autometer gauges were supposed to be pretty decent, but I guess not <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>  I'll be needing some of these badboys soon, but I've no idea what gauges to get... keep us in the loops guys <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> __________________ www.360realms.com/S13-S15

09-09-2002, 10:23 AM	#4
nrcooled Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Turn 8 'bout to get rolled by a SC'd ITR Age: 46 Posts: 1,849 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	But I think the price difference is worth a little hassle.  The price on the Blitz and Apex'i gauges is rediculous $150-200 for a gauge is stupid so for $45 bucks I will take the little innacuracy.   hell for that amount of money take it back and buy another <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> __________________ '91 hatch w/ SR Sold; '03 Evo Sold 401 HP; '03 MS Protege sold; '00 Evo 6.5 TME Sold 300HP

09-09-2002, 10:24 AM	#5
uiuc240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Naperville, IL Age: 46 Posts: 2,093 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Yoshi @ Sep. 09 2002,11:17)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">crap, i thought autometer gauges were supposed to be pretty decent, but I guess not <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> I'll be needing some of these badboys soon, but I've no idea what gauges to get... keep us in the loops guys <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> my electric water temp gauge works great.  the mechanical ones just seem far too prone to "self-adjustment".  there's just a little round copper weighted band inside the gauge.  that provides the resistance to boost which then moves the needle.  complex, but simple i guess.  anyway, it's very delicately positioned, and it just gets out of whack.  sucky. so i'm going to buy something else in the future. Eric __________________ 2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold)

09-09-2002, 10:36 AM	#6
bbp Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: oHIo Age: 53 Posts: 477 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I installed autometer gauges in my race car.  If you read the instructions it says that the meter will not read 0 when the car is not on.  It is supposed to be off a bit when turned off.  My tach read a couple hundred RPM when the car is not running, but is accurate when running. note the power up instructions. __________________

09-09-2002, 10:44 AM	#7
uiuc240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Naperville, IL Age: 46 Posts: 2,093 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bbp @ Sep. 09 2002,11:36)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I installed autometer gauges in my race car. If you read the instructions it says that the meter will not read 0 when the car is not on. It is supposed to be off a bit when turned off. My tach read a couple hundred RPM when the car is not running, but is accurate when running. note the power up instructions.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> The mechanical gauges (like I have for boost/vacuum) should read ZERO when off.  Yes, the electric ones go well below the low mark when off.  But I'm talking about the mech. ones.  It just doesn't hold adjustment well at all.  I mean, 5 minutes after I "fixed" it and put it back in the car, it started reading low (as opposed to high, like it did before...) :thumbsdown: Eric __________________ 2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold)

09-09-2002, 11:23 AM	#8
boosteds14 Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: CIPmotorsports Age: 43 Posts: 1,612 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ya, mine did that too but since i am too cheap i sent it back to autometer and they gave me another one. no problems now <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> __________________ 240SXONE www.240SXMOTORING.com --- One Stop Shop for Your Nissan 240sx

09-09-2002, 06:20 PM	#9
Jeff240sx I hate you too... Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Tampa, FL Age: 42 Posts: 5,828 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: Jeff240sx Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Check the vaccuum line going into the gauge.  Mine is kinda funny.  My a-pillar hole I made kinks the vaccuum line, and my gauge works for a few hours, then I have to wiggle the line, and it works some more.  That could be a solution. -Jeff __________________ Whatup?

09-09-2002, 09:07 PM	#10
xhdriver Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: 6 Posts: 273 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	thats funny, because my boost works perfect, but my elec water temp is busted. by the way, where did you tap the thermometer for your guage? __________________

09-09-2002, 10:26 PM	#11
uiuc240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Naperville, IL Age: 46 Posts: 2,093 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (xhdriver @ Sep. 09 2002,10:07)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">thats funny, because my boost works perfect, but my elec water temp is busted. by the way, where did you tap the thermometer for your guage?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> 6First off, my gauge is wrong ALL the time.  When the car is off, it doesn't rest at zero, and the amount that it is off corresponds to the amount it is off when driving.  For example, right now it's sitting at 4 in-Hg (vacuum) when off.  This means that max boost only reads 6 psi, as 4 in-Hg is roughly 1 psi.  So it's lame. I tapped the water sender in to where the stock one used to be...right above the throttle body on the intake manifold.  You have to drill it out and tap the hole to make it work.  I'm using epoxy thread-maker and it's working fine.  With RTV it leaked like a sieve. Eric __________________ 2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold)