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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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![]() Hi guys,
I've got a serious problem now. I have s13 redtop and right now the turbo oil line got problem. the oil line goes from the block to the turbo, right? My friend screwed up the threads on the block. We tried to re-thread it, but it didnt work out. We tried to put in a metal bushing in there and tap the bushing, it looked fine and it fitted pretty well. But yesterday we put in the engine and start the car. There was oil leak from there. Apparently, the hole is not prefectly fit. What can I do now? Is there anyway to fix this or use something else instead? Like a aftermarket turbo oil line would help? |
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#2 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: RICHMONDHILL QUEENS
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oh fuck man.... #1 i would kick ur friends ass if i were you. i dont let anyone work on my car personally. i have a few friends (one with a supra and 2 with s14s) and they seem not to fuck up when they work on thier own car but went we work on my car... shit goes missing, gets put in wrong, a fucking mad house...
but back to ur post.... i really dont have any idea bro sorry and good luck
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#10 |
Nissanaholic!
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Aggreed!
Those stupid hardlines you gotta be careful, you have to bend them to fit squarely/conform with the block so when you thread in the banjo bolt you can do it by hand first never start those banjo bolts with a rachet or you can end up screwed. |
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#11 |
Post Whore!
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Contact Harp @ http://www.takamotorsports.com/
What you need to do is get braided lines from him. On the block you can weld a -3 AN fitting straight over the thread. You can connect the braided lines to the fitting. Contact Harp and he'll get you all the info you need. The stock banjo bolt is easy to strip. It wouldn't be a bad idea to swap out coolant lines at the same time. Taka carries those as well. |
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#13 |
Post Whore!
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I stripped the fitting on my oil pressure line also, after taking them off and putting them back on 3 or 4 times... just was going too fast one day cause it was getting dark.
I ended up drilling and retapping - talk about stressful. Tapping the block while it's in the car is ridiculously hard because you can only use one end of the T-handle - the crossmember gets in the way if both ends are screwed on. Anyway I used a larger fitting from the A/C hardline (JB welded the back of the nut to the line so it wouldn't leak), flanged the end, then cut the existing oil hardline in the middle and flanged that line's end. To connect them, a little bit of heater hose (rubber high temp hose) and some good hose clamps. Works fine and was free, but when I upgrade turbos I'm definitely going to SS lines. EDIT: A couple shops saw this setup on my car, and all I hear out of them is "M-i-c, k-e-y, m-o-u-s-e" lol. Just remembered that ![]()
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#14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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the hole is fixed tonite with a pretty ghetto way but it should work. so we retap a bigger thred for the a pipe fitting. and put a bolt that is hallow ( i dunno what it's called....the auto value people said something like tapper or taper...i really dunno...forgive my english guys) and fit in the brake line we bought from auto value. and everybody says it will work....my friend's boss who is a mechanic for over 30 years sugguested me this way...
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#15 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: May 2006
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never let your friends do anything to your car. just retap it..
let your friends be your bitch and get your tools for you. while you do your own work on your car.
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