My Oil cooler setup on an S14...

[Master Chief]

Hi all, i thought i would share what i did, as it took some reaserch and i hope this will save someone, the trubble in the future.

Basicly with the new engine i wanted to drop the whole inefficient OEM Water cooled Oil cooler, that comes original on some Euro market models, and others.

I decided to use the oportunity to move the Oil filter to a better location for quick changes as well.

The oil cooler location was hard to decide on. There was either the Passanger wing (instead of the washer bottle), or between the RAD and the FMIC.

As i wanted to keep the lines as short as possible, and allso keep the stock under covers i opted for the wing at the end.

Here is what parts i used and what i did.

From RHDJAPAN :
Tomei N2 oil block, with 10AN fittings. - 228$
Greddy/Trust/Grex Thermostatic filter oil plate. - 163$

From anplumbing.com:
SETRAB #625 Oil cooler - 25 Rows with 10AN fittings. - 206$
6 X Streight 10AN Swivel-Seal fittings, part #800110. - 63$
1 X 45 Deg. 10AN Swivel-Seal fitting, part #804610 . - 23$
1 X 90 Deg. 10AN Swivel-Seal fitting, part #809110 . - 23.5$

10 feet of 10AN Perform-O-Flex braided hose, part #410010.
I had plenty of left overs, but since it was my first time working with braided hose, i wanted some spairs for experiments, but even after that i was still left over with quite a bit..... Make your masurments and order acordingly. I think that 6 feet is more the enough and costs - 54$.

From my local ACE depot - some metal and aluminium brakets and bolts, about 10$ worth.

Grand total about 770$. Not cheap, but every part is the BEST money can buy, for this type of thing.
You can save big on the hoses and fittings if you go for cheaper brands - same goes for the cooler and the rest of the stuff....

So, what i did.

1. Install the TOMEI block. I had to block off some colant pipes that were used for the OEM water cooled cooler - most of you wont have this problem.



The 10AN fittings that come with the Tomei Plate, are 12mm ID on one side, and only 10mm id on the other side. You dont need to do this, as the passages in the block are about 10mm id, but i used a 12mm drill and enlarged the fittings ID , all the way thru , to 12mm.

The fittings that come on the Greddy/Trust oil block ar 12mm all the way.


2. Next you need to decide on a location for the oil relocation plate. I made a flange, and connected below the battery tray - i had to drill two holes for that.


You can see here the hoses connected already.
All the STREIGHT fittings were used to connect to the Filter block, and to the Tomei block on the engine.

This filter relocation block requires a 3/4-16 UNF filter - i used the Greddy filter - part number "OX-1" - its 65mm Dia. You can use other types as long as they are 3/4-16 UNF. Check the Greddy site for more specs.



3. Next was the hard part. Mounting the Oil cooler and routing the lines to the wing area. I had to make some brakets for it, but i didnt have to drill any holes in the cars body. I used available holes only.
I think the pictures speak for themselves.

Remeber to check that you can get the hoses to the oil cooler, from the filter relocation block - without them tuching anything.
If they come close to something, use a piece of rubber hose to isolate them, as braided hoses wil eat thru any metal they tuch.

Allso remeber that these type of hose have a minimum bend radius of 4".
If you try to bend them tighter than that, you will damage the hose.

The way i routed them was the best i could find. They are pretty loose, and hardly tuch any metal. Where they do, i isolated them with a bit of silicon hose wraped around the relevant area.

Allso the cooler itslef is monted with insulated rubber on all corners, as recomanded by SETRAB.
Its important the have some FLEX in the whole system, so it wil apsorb the vibrations.


Here are the lines needed from the Filter Block to the cooler, and the brakets i made.




Here is the cooler mounted. Notice the Top mounting point, and the 90Deg fitting.



Here you can see how the line route benith the car to the engine compartment, and the beautiful braket i made.
The bottom line is with the 45 Deg. fitting.



Thats it.

The bumper goes back on, no problem with this size cooler. I would say that its the biggest you can get in there, with a FMIC and OEM bumper.
This is a ZENKI, but i belive it would look the same on the KOUKI.

Allso, if you dont have the arch lining you should make some kind of protection for the cooler, not to get hit by a rock or something.


Before you start the engine, i recomand to use the top line that goes to the cooler, and prime the cooler with fresh oil.

start the engine, check for leaks and go for a ride.

As its a thermostatic oil relocation/oil cooler block - you wont have problems geting to cold temps.

It would be a good idea dough, to monitor the oil pressure.


Leme know what you guys think, and if you have questions that i can answer.

Thanks,
Dany.

[azndoc]

Looks great.

Awesome job and write up.

+1 to ya.

[zenki_240sx]

vey nice!!!!!!!

[97KATURBOSILVIA]

Yes indeed that is a sweet set up and $700 for added motor security sounds good to me +rep for u

[xdumbxguyx]

damn looks good. ++ for u

[xsparc]

very nice and clean dude +1

[Teddy]

sick setup!!!

[MELLO*SOS]

looks nice and clean, I like your brackets and how you mounted stuff. Good write up, + for you.

[Master Chief]

Thanks guys.... I guess now i should go and take some pictures of the rest of the engine.....

[INeedNewTires]

looks great man, i'll be posting my writeup on this soon, but in a different location.

[McRussellPants]

wheel has to be 2in from that cooler at full lock.

[Mister.E]

dude, that is one hell of a sick setup

[Master Chief]

It looks close in the picture, but the cooler sits way inside within the OEM arch liner....

I aggree that if the wheel will tuch the liner, it might get close, but i dont think its suposed to tuch the liner, even with wide wheels and tyres.

I could always give it a bit more angle, on the Y AXIS if there is a problem, but for now its clears very well.

[Modrified]

sick. very nice.

[clark]

i'm beating a dead horse...but


sick setup!! that cooler looks awesome, setrab is the shit

[mangoes]

very nice and clean.

i want to lick your engine.

[WoolyS14DET]

Very Nice I will be looking at this as a referance !!

[GSXRJJordan]

Overkill, but I dig it.

I used an oil filter relocation kit ($80 @ Baker Precision), a $50 Earl's core (same size as your Setrab), and a couple AN->90* barb fittings. No thermostat (takes a while for oil temps to come up). Mounted it in the same spot, basically.

$135, same performance, less bling.

[Master Chief]

I aggree, and also mentioned that you can go way cheaper and get a similar result.

I just have this thing, from experience unfortunatly, about doing things the right way, first time.

A 80-100 PSI hot oil system, using a couple of barb hoses runing thru my engine, doesnt sound good enough for a 500HP car, intended for drifting.

On the other hand i bet it could work just as well, but would require meaby some attention, here and there.

BTW: I must admit - the bling factor is always a plus in my book - as long as its allso functional.

Thanks for the comments guys, and i really like your Zenki GSXR....

[liv2drift045]

awesome set up man... so 500 drift car huh... please do post those engine bay shots

[IIIXziuR]

Pretty nice set-up and good to see a write up.
Hope you put this thing to good use!

[Master Chief]

I defently intend to, IIXziuR !

[florante rea]

thanks for sharing.

[TheArkitekt]

very nice, same place i mounted mine but mine sits out a little further. It made a huge difference to my cars oil temps on the track. after a 20 minute session the temps stayed stable.

[Nismogirl]

very very nice and sexy... keep up the good work