interesting SR problem

[s14unimog]

Recently my s13 SR has developed a little problem. It seems if the car is not completely warmed up and I lay into boost a little bit, the car seems to "flood" out and shut down. the interesting thing about it is that the symptoms closely relate that of a blown off coupler but without the leak or the fuel cloud out the back. Once the car shuts down completely, it won't start back up for at least an hour or so it seems. its happened about 4 times since the cold weather and the last one has left the car immobilized.

Before any of this happened I noticed that my "IGN ON" fan setup was not letting the car warm up. I've recently disabled the fan and just running a koyo, no fan, no condenser in front of it, no nothing. It still seems to have a little problem warming up fast but wasn't bad.

I'm thinking, if its fuel could it be a bad fuel symptom?

If ignition, which the plugs looked clean, could it be a failed or failing ignitor chip, MAFS, or CAS?

And if it was an electrical component like that wouldn't it just stop working all together. why would leaving the car to sit, remedy the problem.

Or at least it did until the last time.

thanks for the help if you've got something.

[s14unimog]

quick info about the car

96' with s13 SR (FMIC, 11psi, 3" turbo back, intake, koyo, stock t25)
everything stock inside

[SoguRacing]

Did you pull any codes?

[s14unimog]

My ECU doesn't have the reader for some reason.

[SoguRacing]

there is no red LED bulb on the side of the ecu?

[s14unimog]

I'll have to double check now, I remember either my SR ECU was like that or my KA-T one was... I'll see after work.

[s14unimog]

yep E5 ecu no red light no nothing

[Z U L8R]

do you know if you have a thermostat in it?

i'd check the voltage on the tps (since that's free)

if tps checks out, it wouldn't hurt to put a new coolant temp sensor (2 wire) in it to eliminate that. you can get one for a 92 sentra se-r (sr20de) and it's the same, they're roughly $20 at any parts store.

gl
Dave

[s14unimog]

I grabbed one of the two wire ones off of my other motor. I'll try that tonight. thanks Dave.

Remind me to tell you something funny about Alex and the FD

[slider2828]

Mine does that too, are you running any aftermarket ecu? I think it might partly be that on built motors the injector signal is so different at cold start, that aftermarket ecu's can't handle it unless you have something like AEM which has specifically a cold engine map too. (IIRC) Just my .02

[fliprayzin240sx]

+1 on the ECU water temp...ive seen 2 cars do the same exact shit with this problem...swapped sensors and problem went away...

[slider2828]

Where does the coolant temp sensor located?

[s14unimog]

well nothing to report from the two wire sensor. I'm going to pull the CAS and throw in a spare one I've got.

Dave, How exacty do you check the voltage at the TPS?

[s14unimog]

So far I've swapped/borrowed from a working SR in my buddies car.

MAFS, CAS, Ignitor chip, ECU coolent temp sensor, and ECU

I've also checked
fuel pressure, (pinched the line with my fingers to confirm)
Removed CAS and twisted the end with my finger. According to the FSM you are supposed to hear clicking which was pretty much drowned out, if it was clicking, by pressure entering the line and the injectors firing into the manifold.

I pulled the number 1 coilpack and grounded the plug. I could see spark but it didn't look that strong. I feel like I can attribute that to a bad ground source (dirty intake manifold bolt head) and it being really sunny outside.

WHAT HAVE I NOT CHECKED!!!

[s14unimog]

for all who stumble across this in the future...

The problem was a voltage leak from the injectors. If you are ever going through symptoms and find yourself clueless just remember there are a few tricks to use. For one a good way to check if you are getting ignition is to pull a plug, turn the car over and look for spark. Its a nice trick and always puts concerns to rest. If you have a fuel issue, which mine was, then, on an SR, you can remove your CAS, or use a spare like I did, and with the ignition on and fuel pump fuse and ignitor unplugged, turn the gear with your fingers. You should hear you injectors literately click every 1/2 or so rotation.

Thanks to Dave from Lethal Injection, THE MOTHER FUCKIN MAN, I was able to determine that I did not have enough voltage going to my injectors.

My problem turned out to be a corroded connector that I put in the harness when I did the wiring conversion over a year ago. Sure glad I used clear solder connectors so I could see that shit. I double checked the entire loom, to be sure, reinstalled everything, reset my CAS (b/c I removed it again) and BO YA! SHE'S ALIVE!!!!

[Z U L8R]

good job man =]

knew you could do it :P

i'll be waiting for that $49.99 via paypal for the phone diagnostic LOL jp jp

you didn't tell me what alex did lol

Dave @ Lethal Injection