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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#2 |
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1. Open the box
2. Unfold the instructions 3. Read 4. Take out old front strut assembly and disassemble 5. Clamp old strut in vise or other device for holding steady 6. Use hacksaw/angle grinder to cut off end of strut housing (about 1/2" up from where the shaft comes OUT of the housing...the instructions show exactly where to cut) 7. Take out the guts and drain the oil 8. Flip housing on end and drill hole for bolt (per KONI's instructions) 9. De-burr the freshly cut housing with sandpaper/Dremel 10. Insert new KONI 11. Bolt in from bottom 12. Slide rubber dust ring around the top (near the end of the housing by the shaft) 13. Reassemble strut with spring and the rest 14. Put it in your car 15. Repeat for other side The rears are like any other shock. OK. That was the pimpest writeup ever for KONI inserts. Someone archive this sh*t cuz I don't want to write it again. Eric
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#4 |
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ill see if i can use your tips and take some pictures of the steps taken while i get work on it and maybe zilvia.net will post it up on the install help section. your tips and my pictures that is.
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#5 |
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rock on. maybe more people will buy the konis then. so many of these p*ssies
![]() good luck! and take good pics! use the flash so it's not blurry. Eric |
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#7 |
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They however aren't stronger than Tokico Illuminas, blues are childs play. Illuminas vs. Yellows on my g2 teg and Illuminas won with a softer spring (sprint) vs eibach. But yes it is a good writeup.
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#8 | |
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Oh, and what do you mean by "won" on your car? Eric |
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#12 |
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I'm pretty sure illuminas arent rebound/bump adjustable, and there are shock dyno charts that prove that illuminas adjustment range isnt even close to konis.
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#13 |
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Scott,
I'd be interested in seeing this "proof" you've found...and something to remember is that Koni valves the shocks differently for every car. In my case, the Konis were valved specifically for use with my car/engine and Whiteline springs. Konis are not even really designed to be "adjusted"...although they advertise them like that ![]() But you're right...the Konis can go from rock solid to floppy in just a couple of turns. But they're not as easy to adjust in the rear...unlike the Tokicos. In any case, I don't need to go back and forth about this. Opinions are like ![]() Eric Last edited by uiuc240; 07-30-2003 at 12:32 PM.. |
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#14 |
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http://www.koni-na.com/civicdyno.pdf
Its for a civic so the valving is different than a 240, but I would assume adjustment range would be similar for a brand of shock across different cars. EDIT fixed link Ok now that I actually READ the thing, I see that Illuminas have a decent range and are stiffer than Konis. Doesnt necessarily mean they are better, but anyway, what I was thinking of was the AGX which you can see does not have a wide range of adjustment. Last edited by DuffMan; 07-30-2003 at 01:28 PM.. |
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#16 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Rears are adjustable as per the directions. Provided yours did not come with any or you can't read words that don't glow, here it is:
Rear koni adjustment works best with a solidly mounted vice. Lock end of piston in vice Fully compress the shock (and I mean fully compress it) While fully compressed rotation of the shock body adjusts the damping (rebound only). Clockwise is firm, CC is softer IIRC. The shock must remained fully compressed while it is turned or the shock will not be adjusted. You should be able to feel when it engages/ disengages. There is a huge difference between soft and firm so have no fear of being able to tell if it's been adjusted. On soft it should decompress easier than it compressed. On full stiff it's going to take a while. Just like the fronts with the magin Koni knob, adjustment is 2 full turns lock to lock. The easiest way to determine the setting is to turn all the way to lock and count the turns made from full soft or full stiff. Now the little plastic disc should be places over the piston and sits on top of the damper body. I'm pretty sure it's job is to keep the piston from being compressed enough to enable an adjustment change, though changing it requires some pretty serious intent that I highly doubt these could be adjusted "accidentally." The collar/ spring perch from the stock shocks must be transfered to the koni's and the rest of the spring and mount rebuilt and installed in the same manner as the stock setup. The same weekend I replaced my suspension with the whiteline works kit (along with uiuc240) my friend recieved the Illuminas for his 510. Comparing them, the compression setting of the konis was right around 3/5 on the illumina's. The full soft rebound setting on the koni's was softer than 1/5 on the tokikos and full stiff was stiffer than 5/5. Of course this doesn't account for valving differences (if any) for the differeing applications (240 vs 510).
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#19 |
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Yeah, you can't set them up unless you disassemble them. I set mine to 2/3-3/4 stiff in the back just to be safe that they would be stiff but not too stiff. I have the Pro Kit and I love the ride. It's pretty stiff because I have the front set to full stiff. I might change it up in the near future. I have a feeling that I'm not letting the springs do any of the work but I could be wrong. Anyone have any advice about this?
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#20 | |
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Eric |
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#21 |
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i guess thats cool. what setting do they come in? should i change anything? im going to the track end of august and i wanna be prepared. i just ordered ground control coil overs today so im gonna be installing the shocks with my gc's next weekend. any tips for a good drift setup / street setup. something in between. let me know.
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#22 |
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they come setup at 50% stiff. I would just leave them there. They are only adjustable for rebound. I don't think the GC springs are all that stiff, but they are stiffer than Eibach, that's for sure. You might go 1.5 turns from full soft (75%)...but I dunno. I'd just leave it stock and see how it feels. If it's bouncy, you're too soft (the springs are overpowering the shocks). If it's really slow to come back up, you're too firm.
Eric |
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