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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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#1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Some1 help me OIL PRESSURE
KA24DE-T
When I start the car there is no oil pressure and I hear the engine knocking. Then after maybe 15-30 seconds the oil pressure kicks in normal and the knocking goes away engine runs fine. If I idle to get warm it's fine but if I drive it the idle (red lights, stop signs etc) gets real low like 4-7psi. Any clue? I'm thinking maybe a blockage (oil filter, oil pickup) or my oil pump is failing. This is a fresh rebuild. I've done this many times before. Never had this issue. Fully built/blueprinted bottom end, fully balanced rotating assembly, lightened flywheel.
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Last edited by hotlavaflow; 10-07-2010 at 12:38 PM.. |
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#2 |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Edgerton Wi.
Age: 46
Posts: 204
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My guess would be that the oil pressure regulator is sticking. I had similar issues just after my first engine build....which lead to my second engine build. The solution was to rebuild the pump and replace the pump cover and regulator.
In my experience this is a fairly common problem. It might be that all the crap that goes though the pump after a rebuild gets caught in the regulator, interfering with its operation...especially after +100k of miles on the regulator already. Ps: Might want to shim the regulator while you are in there.
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'96 Nissan 240SX KA-T ─ '05 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x2─'85 Nighthawk |
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#5 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Update
I pulled the oil pan Wednesday. Pretty easy I've always heard it was a PITA but it took about 30 minutes. I've always had the motor out when messing with the oil pan.
Remove front brace, drop sway bar, unbolt engine mounts, unbolt transmission brackets, jack engine up, remove oil pan bolts, knock loose, unbolt oil pickup done. Anyway when I pulled the pickup off I noticed the gasket was there but no o-ring, So I'm figuring that was the problem. I replaced the regulator (dealer parts of course) shimmed it also. It was pretty clean in there no debris. I'm waiting on the o-ring from the dealer supposed to be in today. I don't feel like pulling the front cover now after seeing this (reset timing, remove crank pulley etc.) because this is most likely the cause of my issues. I checked my oil pump gears before the install and they were fine. I've also never had any issues with this pump. Do you think I should still replace the gears with the new ones?
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#6 | |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Norwalk, CA
Age: 34
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Quote:
While your down there i would especially anything involing my engines oil i would make sure its operation 100% |
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#7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Yeah I decided to just go ahead and open up the oil pump and change the gears and reseal everything just for peace of mind. I don't don't want to risk blowing anything esp with the winter right here, don't want to be under my car in the cold. I'm also going to change the relief valve behind the oil filter just to be sure. And remove the oil feed line and inline filter to my turbo to check for blockages. Better safe than sorry.
I'm going to take care of it tomorrow and hopefully the dealer will have my oil pickup gasket on Monday so I can wrap it up.
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#8 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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UPDATE RESOLUTION
Oil pressure regulator in oil pump was sticking, replaced with new OEM dealer part (also shimmed using 2 washers) everything is good.
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