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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Super hicas removal??????
ok
so i bought my 91 240sx hatchback se a while back but thing is i got it automatic and with hicas i took care of the automatic problem but still have the hicas and well many people say if i plan to drift get that hicas out! so my question is whats the easiest way to go about canceling the super hicas? ive heard remove full subframe ive heard get the hicas delete bar but heard they r very expensive give me your suggestions on most effect and easiest way to go about this and help will help me out on this one thnx =] i have a vlsd if that changes anything
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#3 |
Zilvia Junkie
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so i can just get a non hicas rear subframe and then
can i remove my vlsd from my hicas and put it on my non hicas subframe? what kinda work would go into this?
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#4 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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the difference in the 2 subframes will be the hicas. Diffs mounting remain the same. The diff does not steer the rear end.
Work? Just press the swap sub-frame button and it's automated. Jk, Unbolt your struts from bottom unbolt brake calipers and hang with wire (DO NOT HANG BY BRAKE LINE). unbolt driveshaft unbolt catback exhaust use 2 of the same types of jacks and place under subframe or lca. loosen 4 main subframe bolts, remove front subframe brackets lower subframe down cross parts you want to keep from old subframe to newer subframe reverse order |
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#5 |
Zilvia Junkie
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oh hahah would be cool if there was such button lol
thnx alot it was a good description ima have to get this done asap now im on a hunt for a rear subframe! im guessing u had super hicas?
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#6 |
Zilvia Junkie
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sorry but one more question
assuming i want to use basicly every part thats on my hicas rear subframe that can be changed to the non hicas one what would be the only things i willl absolutly need from a non hicas rear subframe? thnx sorry for soo much questions
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#9 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I just finished up my complete hicas removal...heres what I did...
Kept the Hicas Subframe Got the Kazama Hicas Eliminator using the Hicas Tie Rods and Ends Energy Suspension Full Bushing Kit I pressed out the ball joint on the rear knuckles. Installed the ES bushing in its place. Drilled the HICAS rod ends to match the bushings Used a bolt/lock nut and two large washers to bolt the rod ends to the knuckles. Two large diameter washers are key. If you only use one/small diameter on the rod end side tightening the lock nut on the knuckle side compresses the bushing into the knuckles and causes everything to be misaligned. The Hicas rods and ends are essentially adjustable toe arms. The outer part can never wear down/out and the inner portion is replaceable if they are shot. GOOD aftermarket toe arms are not cheap and by utilizing the HICAS arms and an eliminator you get the same adjustment without the cost. |
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#10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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oh i see that was very helpfull thnx so basicly
just buy some es bushings? how much did u get the bushings for? and how did it work i mean is it completely gone or is there still a little sketchyness? just want to make sure this is a complete sucess to cancelling the super hicas problem
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#11 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Quote:
HICAS bar is really not expencive at all. but you'll need to change your PS pump. and you'll get to removed all the lines and HICAS BS, weight savings is substantial. pretty easy project. IMO, If you have upgraded suspension coilovers and all.. HICAS delete is a MUST! you'll receive a great improvement in handling ![]()
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#12 |
Zilvia Junkie
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siiiick
yeah i threw some coils on it so yeah gotta get rid of this hicas what kinda hicas cancel bar do u have and how much was it? u got a link or something and r they trustworthy any problems thnx guys for all your suggestions its helping me get the ball rolling on this hicas removal
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#16 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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You never even seen a sub-frame? How do you even know what you have then?
Chrischeezer why out of all the colors at auto parts store you got the same as me?LOL This is what a sub-frame looks like without hicas. ![]() |
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#18 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
2. YES its completely gone, the PS pump is plugged, all the hard lines, junction boxes, etc are off the car. 3. No "sketchyness" if you understand how the rear suspension works and how the tie rod ends work just like toe arms then you will see its the same. 4. This is complete success and then some. The hicas eliminator bar completely disengages the hicas part of the rear suspension. To fully "eliminate everything" you need to remove all of the now useless shit not used after you put in the bar. Whatever you do please remove all of the lines and associated BS. That shit just looks half assed with the rack gone but all the tubing still in place. Plus once you remove the hardlines down the length of the car you have some extra mounting points to tuck/mount a battery cable to the rear. |
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#20 |
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OK so it's very apparent you're in over your head.
I swapped from a HICAS subframe to a non HICAS subframe about 3 months ago. I paid a shop to do mine over the course of 2 days because I didn't have the mindset or desire to put in that much wrench time. Things you'll NEED: 1. Non-HICAS subframe 2. Non-HICAS rear knuckles 3. Non-HICAS toe arms (I got BV, I would highly recommend BV or SPL) 4. Non-HICAS steering pump 5. Automatic transmission fluid 6. A LOT of down time.
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#21 |
Leaky Injector
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I have hicas in my R33 and all I had to do to swap it out was use an S14 subframe and toe arms since you technically don't have toe arms with a hicas subframe. Heres all you need to do:
- Buy non hicas s13 subframe - Grab basic socket set - Undo the 4 bolts holding subframe to your car - Disconnect rear brake cables as you need to in order to lower subframe - Move allllll parts over to other s13 subframe, including keeping the toe arms you got with it - Bolt back up and reconnect brake cables. - Go drift and get bitches *Hicas on my R33 is electric, but if its hydraulic on yours just loop the power steering at the front or like the other guy said, get a non hicas power steering pump |
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#22 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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But like others have been recommending man you really need to google it and check out several of the guides etc out there. Get an FSM and READ and understand how the system works and what needs to be removed and what doesnt. Everyone was a NOOB once but no one here is going to hold your hand and walk you through step by step, tool by tool, etc. But if you use whats listed already and search for the rest you should be able to see that its not to hard at all. First thing is to jack that bitch up and stare at it. |
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#23 |
Zilvia Junkie
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HICAS cars do have toe arms in the rear via the tie rods. They function exactly like the toe arm on the non-hicas subframe except you can adjust toe in the rear in the exact same manner you adjust it in the front. Once you install an eliminator bar the inner/outer tie rods become an adjustable toe arm that function exactly like any aftermarket toe arm.
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#24 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yeah i never understood the hicas on this car
cuz i had a coupe that never had it but all these exaples are good help ima just buy the non hicas rear subframe and swap the parts thnx guys =]
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#25 |
Join Date: May 2011
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Question. If I were to delete the hicas on a z32 tt would I align the rear to n/a or tt specs? I know this is kinda of a dumb question, but I don't have the cash to just get coils and slam it, so I will probably buy some toe arms and delete hicas, and I would prefer to get the rear as straight as possible. Just unsure of what specs to align to. Any help appreciated.
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#26 |
Zilvia Member
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Why not just leave the rear hicas ps line off of the ps pump? I have no power steering in my super hicas hatch right now because someone put in a ka24e, so power steering lines won't work. But the rear stays locked in place so you wouldn't even have to worry about it. Wouldn't this be the easiest way to delete the super hicas?
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#27 |
Zilvia Member
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I have the hicas on my 240sx and I'm going to get a non hicas subframe and is there anything else i need to get.. I want to delete the whole hicas under the car, and I'm going to do it..
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#28 | |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Frankford, Ontario / 1990 JDM(RHD) TT Z32 2+2
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Quote:
Found it surfing Kijiji. |
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