RPMs doesn't past 2k - 2.5k and temperature gauge drops - Video - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Xyle · 04-30-2012, 11:56 AM

95 Ka24de Cluster not reading RPM - YouTube
(disreguard that noise, it's just a spray paint can rolling around lol.)

No codes show on ECU and I've changed the ECU once already.
On rare occasions it works fine but since I bought the car it's had this problem.

Anyone ever had this problem?

Sileighty_85 · 04-30-2012, 01:00 PM

MAFS related

Whole custer is all fucked up.

Its probably not going past 3-3.5 but the tach is just jacked up.

Xyle · 04-30-2012, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

MAFS related

Whole custer is all fucked up.

Its probably not going past 3-3.5 but the tach is just jacked up.

Have you ever seen this problem before? I mean speed and gas level work fine. Is it possible to switch the tach with another cluster? Like switch the odometer and mph tach to one with higher mileage? While using the other gauges from the other cluster?

ultimateirving · 04-30-2012, 09:26 PM

If just the temp gauge is messed up, and it wont run past 2.5k, check ur CTS. how does it run when its cold.. a little better? worse?

Xyle · 04-30-2012, 09:29 PM

What's a CTS? The cars performance that i know of isn't affected by this. I'm gonna try switching clusters maybe the motors are done on this one.

Frank_Jaeger · 05-01-2012, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xyle

What's a CTS? The cars performance that i know of isn't affected by this. I'm gonna try switching clusters maybe the motors are done on this one.

Coolant temperature sensor.

Xyle · 05-01-2012, 05:28 PM

Thank you for clarifying that up. I'm sure it works fine cause when my clutch fan gave out the temperature gauge would shoot all the way up at idle. Took off the four bolts of the fan and spun the spring for more tension and problem was solved.

Usually on hot days it will work even after some burn outs... Very weird.

Xyle · 05-02-2012, 05:56 PM

Fixed my issue by swapping odometer/mph to a another cluster. But during movement the temperature gauge goes down but at a slower pace then what I have in the video.

Mishkin_707 · 05-03-2012, 07:00 PM

Could be your thermostat, turn the heater on it the car, let it warm up and drive the car, see if the hot air gets cooler, there are two sensors for the cooling system, the single pin sends signal to the gauge cluster to show you the temp, the other sensor (CTS) is a red 2 pin connector, right next to the the black single pin connector, the coolant temp sensor (CTS) is the 2 pin, you need to check that one, it sends signal to the ecu telling it if the car is warm or cold, if it malfunctions it will screw with your car, mine malfunctioned and it was making my ecu think my car was cold and in result it was dumping excess fuel like if my car was in the warm up process even though my car was and normal operating temp causing my car to flood with fuel and die, idle badly, fuel economy was compromised badly, and it wouldn't rev.

To test it, warm the car up and go under the hood disconnect the red two pin connector and see if anything changes.... Hope this helps

Xyle · 05-22-2012, 07:32 PM

Just to update, I change that black sensor and it fixed the temperature needle problem. Cluster working as good as possible. Thanks for the help!

04-30-2012, 11:56 AM	#1
Xyle Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SFL Posts: 31 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	RPMs doesn't past 2k - 2.5k and temperature gauge drops - Video 95 Ka24de Cluster not reading RPM - YouTube (disreguard that noise, it's just a spray paint can rolling around lol.) No codes show on ECU and I've changed the ECU once already. On rare occasions it works fine but since I bought the car it's had this problem. Anyone ever had this problem?

04-30-2012, 01:00 PM	#2
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	MAFS related Whole custer is all fucked up. Its probably not going past 3-3.5 but the tach is just jacked up. __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

04-30-2012, 09:26 PM	#4
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 37 Posts: 1,521 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	If just the temp gauge is messed up, and it wont run past 2.5k, check ur CTS. how does it run when its cold.. a little better? worse? __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

04-30-2012, 09:29 PM	#5
Xyle Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SFL Posts: 31 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	What's a CTS? The cars performance that i know of isn't affected by this. I'm gonna try switching clusters maybe the motors are done on this one.

05-01-2012, 05:28 PM	#7
Xyle Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SFL Posts: 31 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thank you for clarifying that up. I'm sure it works fine cause when my clutch fan gave out the temperature gauge would shoot all the way up at idle. Took off the four bolts of the fan and spun the spring for more tension and problem was solved. Usually on hot days it will work even after some burn outs... Very weird.

05-02-2012, 05:56 PM	#8
Xyle Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SFL Posts: 31 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Fixed my issue by swapping odometer/mph to a another cluster. But during movement the temperature gauge goes down but at a slower pace then what I have in the video.

05-03-2012, 07:00 PM	#9
Mishkin_707 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: everywhere Age: 43 Posts: 732 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Could be your thermostat, turn the heater on it the car, let it warm up and drive the car, see if the hot air gets cooler, there are two sensors for the cooling system, the single pin sends signal to the gauge cluster to show you the temp, the other sensor (CTS) is a red 2 pin connector, right next to the the black single pin connector, the coolant temp sensor (CTS) is the 2 pin, you need to check that one, it sends signal to the ecu telling it if the car is warm or cold, if it malfunctions it will screw with your car, mine malfunctioned and it was making my ecu think my car was cold and in result it was dumping excess fuel like if my car was in the warm up process even though my car was and normal operating temp causing my car to flood with fuel and die, idle badly, fuel economy was compromised badly, and it wouldn't rev. To test it, warm the car up and go under the hood disconnect the red two pin connector and see if anything changes.... Hope this helps

05-22-2012, 07:32 PM	#10
Xyle Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SFL Posts: 31 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just to update, I change that black sensor and it fixed the temperature needle problem. Cluster working as good as possible. Thanks for the help!