More s14 sr problems

[jlmillionaire]

So after setting timing to 15 btdc with timing gun, i still have issues.The spark plugs are getting fouled out with carbon like mad , i put new ones in bkr6e i didn't gap them by the way i read that there pre gapped ngk ones. i tookv them out to inspect them fouled out within ten minutes of letting the car idle. also when i drive the car it bucks like crazy like a bronco lol , also the weird thing is its going threw gas like no tomorrow. i must of started with half a gas tank let the car warm up a couple times to mess with timing and etc.. and now its down to empty she must be running rich as hell. btw the way i have my boost couplings is ghetto from my hot pipe i have a 2.5 over a 2 in to the turbo inlet that the hotpipe connects to.also from my hot side i have a 90 degree cuopling that i bought from ebay that they sent is too big as well so that could be another issue. i have a fpr and is set to 36 psi. also guys i had to set the screw all the way tight on my aicv for it to idle to about 850 900 rpm. can any help me trouble shoot these issue the car is driving me insane but i dont want to give up because despite the issues and mental frustration i love the car thanks all

[Mister.E]

could be a bad O2 sensor. my WRX did the same shit when the O2 went bad. it started running super rich and bucked all over the fuckin place.

[jlmillionaire]

yea could be i bought one of a guy here and it looked good how can i trouble shoot that?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Gap the plugs down to .030, double check for vacuum leaks. I cant remember now but was this car running fine before or is this a fresh swap.

[jlmillionaire]

plus i got my wiring harness done by jgy i believe they did a sub par job but the engine starts up but not rite away it cranks up first then starts

[jlmillionaire]

it ran fine at one point for about two months flip,but ive had this issue with the engine running rich fouled plugs always and it goes threw gas like crazy and its driving me crazy lol also when i went to set the timing i couldn't get the black links to line up with the dots on cam gears the gears are the greddy ones i was turning the harmonic balancer for hours dude and so i got tired of it and i had both of them one link off but the black links were 10 and 12 oclock then i stabbed the cas while the crank was at tdc at the yellow mark on harmonic balancer, then fired her up let it get to operating temp disconnected tps and shot timing to the second mark from the left by adjusting cas did i do it rite ?

[jr_ss]

You need to fix any vacuum/boost leaks first. That's metered air getting out of your system if that coupler is leaking. I would also try unplugging the MAF and see if it'll start and idle. If it runs better, your MAF is trash and you need a new one.

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by jlmillionaire

it ran fine at one point for about two months flip,but ive had this issue with the engine running rich fouled plugs always and it goes threw gas like crazy and its driving me crazy lol also when i went to set the timing i couldn't get the black links to line up with the dots on cam gears the gears are the greddy ones i was turning the harmonic balancer for hours dude and so i got tired of it and i had both of them one link off but the black links were 10 and 12 oclock then i stabbed the cas while the crank was at tdc at the yellow mark on harmonic balancer, then fired her up let it get to operating temp disconnected tps and shot timing to the second mark from the left by adjusting cas did i do it rite ?

Based on your description there, your ignition timing is wrong.
It's apparently not your only problem, but it needs to be fixed.
The links to dots are for installation only, if anyone tells you to line up the dots to links disregard the poster unless you are reinstalling the timing chain.

To set the mechanical timing get piston 1 TDC on compression stroke.
Verify the dots are at 10 and 12, cam lobes pointing out then count the links between the dots. Then set cas per FSM, after that hit it with a timing light.

Build a boostleak tester, turbo car owner's need one or a way to test for leaks. Also when you get that stuff right, set your fpr and iacv back to factory specs. With most of your settings out of whack you cant know when things get right!

[jlmillionaire]

Very stupid ? You guys use basic zip ties for vacuum hoses or clamps

[Mister.E]

most of the time vacuum hoses dont need clamps if they are in good condition. but i have used zipties in the past to secure a few lines that i was suspicious of.

[jlmillionaire]

Originally Posted by cotbu

Based on your description there, your ignition timing is wrong.
It's apparently not your only problem, but it needs to be fixed.
The links to dots are for installation only, if anyone tells you to line up the dots to links disregard the poster unless you are reinstalling the timing chain.

To set the mechanical timing get piston 1 TDC on compression stroke.
Verify the dots are at 10 and 12, cam lobes pointing out then count the links between the dots. Then set cas per FSM, after that hit it with a timing light.

Build a boostleak tester, turbo car owner's need one or a way to test for leaks. Also when you get that stuff right, set your fpr and iacv back to factory specs. With most of your settings out of whack you cant know when things get right!

how many links should be between the dots

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by jlmillionaire

how many links should be between the dots

I always use FRSPORTS for a reference...



"Fig. 10 - 10 chain links from intake dot to exhaust dot
Valvetrain after everything's re-installed. Notice the number of chain links from the intake sprocket punch mark to the exhaust mark. There are 10 links in between. Also verify that the dowel notch on the sprocket is pointing at about 10 o'clock and 12 o'clock for the intake and exhaust side, respectively. The cam and sprockets should be in the exact same position as shown in Fig. 2b. If there isn't exactly 10 links or if the position is off, you will need to re-adjust the sprockets and cams to get it perfect. Do not proceed to the next step unless you are sure the cams are lined up correctly."

[Hoffman5982]

Pull the fuel rail off, turn the key and let the pump prime, and see if any of the injectors are leaking. Also, injectors could be stuck open as well.

Hate to say it, but my car did the whole going through a fuck ton of gas(full tank in like 50 miles) and it turned out to be a fucked piston. Do a compression test.

[xSoCalxRiderx125]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

You need to fix any vacuum/boost leaks first. That's metered air getting out of your system if that coupler is leaking. I would also try unplugging the MAF and see if it'll start and idle. If it runs better, your MAF is trash and you need a new one.

This shit happened to me. Horrible mpg's, car was bucking like a horse. Turns out the maf was bad. Volt test your maf. Should increase 1volt for every 1k in rpm climb or something around there.

[jlmillionaire]

Also to mention I have my hks bov vented to atmosphere,with no tune

[jlmillionaire]

Originally Posted by xSoCalxRiderx125

This shit happened to me. Horrible mpg's, car was bucking like a horse. Turns out the maf was bad. Volt test your maf. Should increase 1volt for every 1k in rpm climb or something around there.

ok how do i do that run the volt test?

[jlmillionaire]

just took the plugs out the were fouled with carbon and smelled like fuel, also im preforming the boost leak test with bicycle pump which sucks because my buddy has my compressor is there anything specific with doping the boost leak test or stright foward put tester on intake pump and then use soapy water on couplings and vacuum lines?

[fliprayzin240sx]

I usually use simple green...that way when I wipe it down, I'm actually cleaning the engine bay too. You pump enough air on air, you should be able to hear the air hissing out.

You can make a boost leak tester with a PCV cap that fits the charge pipre after the MAF, drill a hole on it and fit a bicycle valve stem on it. Hook it up to a compressor and pressurize it to about 20 psi. You should be able to hear the air hissing out.

[jlmillionaire]

also after i put everything back together it ran fine for like ten mins then same problem the bogging i just dont get it then i unplugged maf engine died, then tps then engine died wtf man wtf im so tight rite now

[jlmillionaire]

I think im just gonna save and spend to get stand alone and tune has any one heard of jmr garage on longisland?

[cotbu]

I think im just gonna save and spend to get stand alone and tune has any one heard of jmr garage on longisland?

You need a mechanic, not a tuner! So i hope they have both.

[fliprayzin240sx]

So you said now its running fine when it was cold and then started bogging when it got warmed up? ECU water temp sensor is the next thing to try.

[jlmillionaire]

Hey flip when I set mechanical timing I set the marks 10 and 12 with the #1 piston on tdc which is the piston closest to the front correct I also set harmonic balencer mark to 15 with out timing gun and then lined up cas as per fsm ,also when i unplugged the mafs the engine died ,also when i unplugged tps the engine died then I messed with iacv fixed that .having the bov vented to atmosphere does that cause the rpms to almost drop to the bottom almost stalling the engine

[jlmillionaire]

still running rich ima just change the o2 and coolant temp ?? and mafs maybe??

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by jlmillionaire

Hey flip when I set mechanical timing I set the marks 10 and 12 with the #1 piston on tdc which is the piston closest to the front correct I also set harmonic balencer mark to 15 with out timing gun and then lined up cas as per fsm ,also when i unplugged the mafs the engine died ,also when i unplugged tps the engine died then I messed with iacv fixed that .having the bov vented to atmosphere does that cause the rpms to almost drop to the bottom almost stalling the engine

You counted the number of chains between the cams right? Also when you had it at TDC, the main pulley mark should be lining up with the 2nd line from the left. When you shoot it with a timing gun, should be lining up with the 2nd line from the right.

Yes, having a vented BOV can cause your engine to bog down when you lift off the throttle. Try tightening the BOV and see if it helps. What kinda BOV is it anyways?

[jlmillionaire]

its a hks bov i have a little hose clamp on the vac hose that goes to bov, when i did the boost leak test with bicycle pump and soapy water i saw air bubbles i tightend the clamp and they went away,so flip i have to take the valve cover off again shit im a shitty part time mech lol,my cas is centered tho i thought that was fsm settings? i noticed to to when i raised throttle slightly i heard like a slight rattle like a paint can sound it was light are those the rocker arms making that. noise?

[jlmillionaire]

hey btw guys i got my wiring harness done by jgy customs i think they did a shitty job so that could also be a huge prob but the car does start and gauges dont go crazy but my harness looks like shit and near the ecu plug i saw one of the wires disconnected it was orange and white

[jlmillionaire]

When i drive my car it almost feels like the car is jumpy like the throttle is bouncing up and down I think i should post some vids on zilvia maybe my throttle is sticking too who knows .....

[snafupossum]

I'm having a similar problem, in for a solution. My only bucks though if I randomly try and go into boost in a gear, going hard from off the line it is just fine.

[jlmillionaire]

is there a way to diagnose the o2 or coolant temp sensor i dont have the consult port on my wiring harness