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Old 06-13-2012, 06:56 PM   #1
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White Smoke from SR20det

So the car started shooting white smoke anytime I hit boost. Engine temp rises and car kinda hesitates a bit. My thoughts were Head Gasket or Turbo Seal. I have a Cometic 1.5mm headgasket and ARP headstuds, does not make sense that would go out at only 18psi. But the engine temp rising is worrying me. I am sure you guys know what is going on so I leave it in your hands. Suggestions? Thanks in Advance!
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:19 PM   #2
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Do you have an actual water temp gauge? Stock needle gauge is utter crap.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:27 PM   #3
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I had a Cometic head gasket with ARP headstuds on my last sr20det and it had a slight head gasket leak. The Cometic gaskets don't seal very well around the bore and pressurizes the coolant system. Some people have good luck, others don't. I changed over to an OEM gasket and it never gave me any problems after that.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:33 PM   #4
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^^^I'd probably double check the torque on the head studs and see if they're still within spec.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:43 PM   #5
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Yes I have an aftermarket temp gauge, normal engine load it is sitting at 220°f. Usually it sits at 180°f. Running a Koyo radiator. To the other comments, if it really the head gasket, what would you suggest. Also I guess while I am in there I should do pistons? Suggestions on that as well. Also, if it is just coolant leaking right now, about how long do I have until it has to be fixed? Thanks Guys
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:11 PM   #6
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220 is too hot. Anything over 215 and I'd be worried. Check the torque on the ARP studs, might have loosen some if you've never checked them before after you initially put them on. You're supposed to check them atleast once after you've run the engine.

If it is the HG, honestly, fresh stock HG is good. I've seen folks push 600 hp on stock HG before they start blowing them. And reason they blew wasnt due to shitty HG, but the head started lifting.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:52 PM   #7
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fliprazin - you the man, good information to know, I guess it is time to get some replacement parts and take the car apart again! Is there a sure way to tell if it is a HG or not? I looked for oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. That i did not see but I guess the leak could be internally where water can leak in the combustion chamber?
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:10 PM   #8
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Honestly, if I was in your shoes, this is what I would do:
- Compression check just to make see how healthy the bottom end is, should be about 140-150 psi, more is better.
- If the compression is low, drop a cap full of oil in each cylinder, if the compression jumps, rings might be going bad. If it doesnt go up, then HG might be your issue.
- I would then re torque the ARP head studs and then check the compression again. If the compression doesnt get better, then I'll start tearing down the head.

I'd get the head decked, stock Nissan HG, cooper spray the HG just for good measure and torque down with the ARP studs.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
Honestly, if I was in your shoes, this is what I would do:
- Compression check just to make see how healthy the bottom end is, should be about 140-150 psi, more is better.
- If the compression is low, drop a cap full of oil in each cylinder, if the compression jumps, rings might be going bad. If it doesnt go up, then HG might be your issue.
- I would then re torque the ARP head studs and then check the compression again. If the compression doesnt get better, then I'll start tearing down the head.

I'd get the head decked, stock Nissan HG, cooper spray the HG just for good measure and torque down with the ARP studs.
Everything was good advice besides the copper spray. Do not use it, it doesn't need it.
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:41 AM   #10
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Agreed with the procedure above. Make sure to gently scrape the top of the block with a razor blade edge held at a 45 degree angle to ensure all of the headgasket residue if off. I would also recheck the ARP studs aswell once its been driven approx 100 miles or so with a couple heat cycles of the engine. Glad I saw this thread. I was about to buy a Cometic HG. Copper spray isnt needed either. Good luck with the build.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:53 AM   #11
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If you want to do a metal head gasket, I recommend getting Apexi or Cosworth.
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:48 PM   #12
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How much torque on the head studs?

This has been a great help, I read a ton on the forum but hardly ever speak up. I appreciate all of your knowledge and help.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman03 View Post
How much torque on the head studs?

This has been a great help, I read a ton on the forum but hardly ever speak up. I appreciate all of your knowledge and help.
Depends on how old your fasteners are. ARP changed their installation procedures again. On the ones I'm using on my RB25, hand tight the studs in, use the lube they supply on the studs/bolts, step torqued down to 80 ft/lbs. Instructions for the older ones were different.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
Honestly, if I was in your shoes, this is what I would do:
- Compression check just to make see how healthy the bottom end is, should be about 140-150 psi, more is better.
- If the compression is low, drop a cap full of oil in each cylinder, if the compression jumps, rings might be going bad. If it doesnt go up, then HG might be your issue.
- I would then re torque the ARP head studs and then check the compression again. If the compression doesnt get better, then I'll start tearing down the head.

I'd get the head decked, stock Nissan HG, cooper spray the HG just for good measure and torque down with the ARP studs.
You can also buy a test kit to check for fuel/combustion vapors in your coolant
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #15
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You can also buy a test kit to check for fuel/combustion vapors in your coolant
Yeah, I have seen those, they aren't that great. A leak down test will tell you everything. Thats what I would recommend.
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:02 PM   #16
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an apexi hg isnt really thaaat much. just be sure to torque it down right. not just to ft lbs spec. but there is a certain order that you have to do it in as well. you have to torgue to a certain spec in a certain order, then back all them out, then torque down again, then usually you have to do it a 3rd time to full spec. and if your not going to do any block work just get an oem spec apexi hg. if you have block work done you may have to get a bigger mm hg. just my .02

Last edited by 240zach; 06-14-2012 at 10:02 PM.. Reason: fixed typo
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:58 PM   #17
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I would need a retune if I went with that oem thickness HG would i not? I have a 1.5mm right now
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:01 PM   #18
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So when choosing a hg there are smaller mm like 87mm x 1.5mm what do i need? I want to go with the same thickness that I have.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:39 PM   #19
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I would need a retune if I went with that oem thickness HG would i not? I have a 1.5mm right now
Meh, I wouldnt worry about it. I ran a 1.5 then switched to a 1.1 because it was available.

Cosworth ftw.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:02 PM   #20
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not really. if your running a 1.5 and put on a 1.1 it would increase the compression a tid bit but nothing substantial
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:09 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13 drifta View Post
Everything was good advice besides the copper spray. Do not use it, it doesn't need it.
I found its more of a precaution, like you said it doesn't need it but it doesn't hurt it at all, its that last little bit of security.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:36 AM   #22
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I ordered the Apexi HG because of the HG thread. Everyone says they are the best. They are on sale right now on FSport so that was kinda good timing. Thanks everyone, I will let you know when the car is back up and running!
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:00 AM   #23
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I ordered the Apexi HG
nice. apex is the shit
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:56 PM   #24
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you can get a cheap block tester from napa ezpz
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:45 AM   #25
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i would have figured it was the seals on the turbo going out....other wise it would smoke all the time.........right?
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