SR Started, but running rough - Video Attached.. Help !

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Hey guys, I finally got my SR running again after like 5 years. Its been awhile. I played around with the wires on the 4 pin side of the ignitor and it starts up without any hesitation, but smokes lots which I think some is expected.

Last time it started I had smoke but it eventually stopped and oil in my intercooler pipe.

It almost sounds like its running on 2 cylinders or something in the video.

I've got a s14 SR Zenki in my 89 s13 btw.

Any help is appreciated. Check out the video here. Is this normal for an engine sitting awhile and will it just get better with time?

I had old gas in there, but I put in about 20 liters of 94 octane, octane booster, fuel injector, fuel stabilizer. New fuel filter is in. Old oil is still in there, but I checked it and it seems OK on the dipstick. I am probably dumb for not changing it. Let me know guys what you think.

Thanks

[JasianBlazin]

holy fucking misfire.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Could I jump around 1 coil pack wire to the ignitor at a time to see which one fires then I can hook up all 4? Should be safe right? Please let me know. I think my wires might be mixed up. I don't want to mess with the cas if that's not even the problem

[2plus4plus0eq6]

OK well... no replies.. anyways.. I did some research cause I need too!

I believe I know what the problem is. I have a huge boost leak. No positive pressure due to my intercooler not hooked up to my intake and hot pipe.

I am going to do a boost leak test with a DIY tester I will make connecting a compressor. Secondly.. after I do that, I will temporally connect my intake manifold to my turbo outlet. This should hold the pressure and hopefully fix the rough idle, misfiring and smoking.

I sure hope so. I feel dumb to not even think about boost leaks. If all else fails, I will then look into the timing.

I attached a second video here which I think is clearer. I hope this advice helps someone else as well

[s13drob]

Wait so you dont have your piping hooked up after the maf??


you are, why would you think it would run without having the piping hooked up... talk about a boost leak

[2plus4plus0eq6]

what can I say.. I'm still learning

[s13drob]

Hook up all the piping and intercooler and try again. It should be ok.

[Prozac]

Learn Faster! Keep making mistakes like that and it will probally be another 5 years before it starts. Dont blow your load , take your time and do it right youngster. If you dont know google and google some more , gl.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

No no. No more waiting. It will be driving by next spring for sure even if I have to pay a shop as a last resort

[s13drob]

Im sure it should run after you get the piping hooked up. Any updates?

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Wife is leaving for the weekend. I will soon

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Update. Made no difference when I pipe from my TB to my turbo. I am going to look into my timing and stuff soon. Any advice?

I know I am getting spark on all 4 spark plugs. They are just misfiring. I don't have a timing light at the moment. I will do some more research to see if I can play with my CAS while its running or something

[JasianBlazin]

First check your timing......buy a timing light they're cheap like $20.

Run the engine, unplug each coil one at a time. If the idle gets worse then its good, If the idle stays the same that cylinders bad. It could be a bad coil pack, or injector. Also could be a bad ignitor.

[sdrmiami]

ok a few questions.. was this motor allready running in the car or are you just now doing a swap.. if you are just nor doing the swap that means that the CAS is 1 tooth off TDC. in japan when they have the motors in the yard they pull orr the AFM and the CAS. Thus when they get shipped out they just slap them on and do not set them on the correct timing.

how to fix...
***** DISCONNECT BATTERY TERMINALS***

1-remove coil pack on cyl #1
2-remove plug on cyl #1
3-insert a long flat screw driver in the plug hole
4-turn the crank till you see the timing marks on the crank pully and you will line up (from left to right) the timing post to the second scribe mark.
5-make sure the screw driver went all the way up that means its is on TDC
6-take off the 2-12mm bolts that hold the CAS in place.
7-slide out the CAS and see how it lines up. the gear should line up with the mark of the housing to the first dot on the right (cas against your stomach) if not thats your problem line it up and pop it back in.


hope this helps. if you have any questions feel free to call me

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Originally Posted by JasianBlazin

First check your timing......buy a timing light they're cheap like $20.

Run the engine, unplug each coil one at a time. If the idle gets worse then its good, If the idle stays the same that cylinders bad. It could be a bad coil pack, or injector. Also could be a bad ignitor.

I see what you mean by checking it with that before I attempt to take my CAS out. I think it might be best to play with the CAS by retarding or advancing it to start with, then check it with the timing light and if all else fails try and take the CAS out and stick back on the right tooth?

Originally Posted by sdrmiami

ok a few questions.. was this motor allready running in the car or are you just now doing a swap.. if you are just nor doing the swap that means that the CAS is 1 tooth off TDC. in japan when they have the motors in the yard they pull orr the AFM and the CAS. Thus when they get shipped out they just slap them on and do not set them on the correct timing.

how to fix...
***** DISCONNECT BATTERY TERMINALS***

1-remove coil pack on cyl #1
2-remove plug on cyl #1
3-insert a long flat screw driver in the plug hole
4-turn the crank till you see the timing marks on the crank pully and you will line up (from left to right) the timing post to the second scribe mark.
5-make sure the screw driver went all the way up that means its is on TDC
6-take off the 2-12mm bolts that hold the CAS in place.
7-slide out the CAS and see how it lines up. the gear should line up with the mark of the housing to the first dot on the right (cas against your stomach) if not thats your problem line it up and pop it back in.


hope this helps. if you have any questions feel free to call me

That's great advice. I am finishing my swap which means it hasn't really ran since it came off the boat. I would not have ever known that If I googled for a week straight



Now I do want to play with the CAS a little to see if it will fix it. Maybe its on the right tooth by chance because it does start up. Maybe I just need to advance it or retard the timing. Can I wiggle the CAS while the car is running?


Update:

I tried to adjust the CAS and it seemed to get better when I retarded the timing, but just not good enough. I'll grab a timing gun tomorrow and pull out the CAS and stick it back in. Its gotta be on the wrong tooth. When I connect the timing gun, do I connect it to the wires going to the coil pack #1. I don't have spark plug wires so I'm not sure.

[JasianBlazin]

wait so did you even set your engine to TDC? if you're adjusting the CAS and the engine isn't set at TDC its still going to run like shit..

Yes you can wiggle the CAS when the engines running, how else would you adjust it with a timing light.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Originally Posted by JasianBlazin

wait so did you even set your engine to TDC? if you're adjusting the CAS and the engine isn't set at TDC its still going to run like shit..

Yes you can wiggle the CAS when the engines running, how else would you adjust it with a timing light.

I just adjusted the cas with the engine off then started it cause I wasn't sure. I didn't know it had to be adjusted at TDC. Are you sure it matters? Wouldn't it be constantly moving in and out of TDC when the engine is running?

I Gotta pick up a 27 mm socket for the crank tomorrow.

[JasianBlazin]

Originally Posted by 2plus4plus0eq6

I just adjusted the cas with the engine off then started it cause I wasn't sure. I didn't know it had to be adjusted at TDC. Are you sure it matters? Wouldn't it be constantly moving in and out of TDC when the engine is running?

I Gotta pick up a 27 mm socket for the crank tomorrow.

when you stick in the CAS, the engine has to be set at TDC! You said you've never actually had the car running before? So as "sdrmiami" stated when the engines are shipped over from japan the engines aren't set at TDC and the CAS are misaligned.

Set the engine to TDC and line up the CAS correctly.

Let us know when you've did that.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Update:

Well I will list the steps I did. Didn't really notice a difference at startup.

- Pulled out the spark plug from cylinder #1 and stuck in a long screwdriver to see TDC. To double check this I made sure the second mark from the left on the crank lined up with the pin when it was at TDC.

- Put the spark plug and coil back on.

- Pulled out the CAS. Realigned the notches. Notch on the housing with the dot on the right if plastic part of CAS is facing me.

- Stuck the CAS back in with notch facing up.

- Aligned the CAS so the bolts sat in the middle.

- Hooked up the timing light and set the dial to 15 degrees.

- Started up the engine and adjusted the CAS until the second mark on the crank was at the pin.


I noticed that the timing gun doesn't flash very fast. Is this normal? Its like every 1/2 second. Thought it would be faster. Correct me if I am wrong anywhere.

I wonder if my cylinder firing order is incorrect. How can I find out?

EDIT: I still think I am on the wrong tooth with my CAS because when I have the timing at 15 degrees, my CAS is all the way counter-clockwise. BRB.. I need to get it back onto the other tooth.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

I must be on the right tooth. when I turn the CAS to the left or the right when I put it into engine, it won't start up. I must be on it. I could double check by taking off the valve cover. Seems like a pain.

I'm going nuts scratching my head here. It seemed to run better 5 years ago. I am going to go check all my grounds and such.

HELP

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Get a buddies known working CAS and swap them out, that looks and sounds like a issue I had that turned out to be a bad CAS.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

Get a buddies known working CAS and swap them out, that looks and sounds like a issue I had that turned out to be a bad CAS.

Wish I had a buddy with a SR. I will look at the FSM and see if I can test the one I have and get back to you.

[wangan_cruiser]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

Get a buddies known working CAS and swap them out, that looks and sounds like a issue I had that turned out to be a bad CAS.

if you have a bad cas, car wont even start. it controls fuel injectors to fire and coils to spark

[SLiDe_WaYz]

I'm telling you now.... I had a bad CAS, my car would start but back fire and idle like shit.

How do I know. Because I had a friend bring his CAS, and ignitor over, set the timing stabbed in his CAS and ran prefect and smooth.

Pretty sure a ignitor controls spark.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Its starting to sound better when I start it now or maybe its just my imagination. It doesn't backfire anymore. Its running super rich

EDIT:

I wonder if my vacuum setup is wrong. the only thing I can remember that I changed was add in a boost controller. I have a line coming from a T where the FPR is to the boost controller then back to the wastegate. Could this be my problem? if so, how do I fix it?

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Check your plugs you very well could have fouled them out. And I would weld in a nipple in your hot pipe for your wastegate line seems to work best IMO. Then T off you BOV/FPR lines. Never ever ever put a T in your brake booster line just incase you might have...

Again check your timing you very well may not have your CAS stabbed in and set right. Frsport has a write up on how to set it to TDC and stab and set your CAS correctly.

Is your maf wired in correctly? It could easily be that as well... Having a bad maf causes mis fire, and rough idle.

Dude honestly it could be SOO many different things.. You really need to surf the net with your issues and try and find something that relates to your problems to narrow it down to what it could be.

It could be as simple as a broken wire or not a strong enough ground.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

Check your plugs you very well could have fouled them out. And I would weld in a nipple in your hot pipe for your wastegate line seems to work best IMO. Then T off you BOV/FPR lines. Never ever ever put a T in your brake booster line just incase you might have...

Again check your timing you very well may not have your CAS stabbed in and set right. Frsport has a write up on how to set it to TDC and stab and set your CAS correctly.

Is your maf wired in correctly? It could easily be that as well... Having a bad maf causes mis fire, and rough idle.

Dude honestly it could be SOO many different things.. You really need to surf the net with your issues and try and find something that relates to your problems to narrow it down to what it could be.

It could be as simple as a broken wire or not a strong enough ground.

I know. I have been checking everything so far and the FSM. I will double check my wiring of my MAF. I am running rich for a reason. I am sure my plugs are not the problem. I have been trying different ones and cleaning them off every time. They are definitely getting fouled. Hence the black exhaust smoke.

how do I run my vacuum lines for my boost controller? Can you please dumb it down for me. I have been searching like crazy. Been having a hard time figuring stuff out. everyone says something different. I find the Vacuum diagram in the FSM confusing as shit especially when I am modifying it for what I have. I don't have a BOV on my car yet and I would rather not run my wastegate to my hotpipe at the moment. Is there a better easier way for now. I just want the thing to run smooth, then I can play with it.

I am almost thinking its either my MAF or my vacuum line setup.

Thanks for the help everyone. I will figure it out eventually...

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Get rid of the boost controller.. Make the car actually run right before you install a boost controller.

Simple do this. Use only the top 2 vacuum points on your TB, the bottom one is useless. Take one line and run it to your wastegate then take another vacuum line run it to your fpr, T into that line and run it to your bov. Cap the bottom vac line on the TB that fitting or whatever only works when the TB is open so it isn't a good source of vac pressure.

I didt like having a T so I welded in a nipple in the hot pipe for the wastegate ( which is proven to give better boost response )

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

Get rid of the boost controller.. Make the car actually run right before you install a boost controller.

Simple do this. Use only the top 2 vacuum points on your TB, the bottom one is useless. Take one line and run it to your wastegate then take another vacuum line run it to your fpr, T into that line and run it to your bov. Cap the bottom vac line on the TB that fitting or whatever only works when the TB is open so it isn't a good source of vac pressure.

I didt like having a T so I welded in a nipple in the hot pipe for the wastegate ( which is proven to give better boost response )

Well I took your advice and took out the Boost Controller and ran the wastegate like I did before to the vacuum. Plugged all of my nipples under my TB.

I multimeter a bunch of my stuff to see if its good.Temp Sensor is good for 1.979 Kilo ohms. My temp guage on my cluster reads like 2/3 max. I have no idea why?? All of my coilpacks are reading well at 0.8 ohms. And my Oxygen sensor is reading well at 3.7 ohms.

I rechecked my MAF wiring and metered that. 12V at ignition ON and it jumps around up to 11VDC and down when idling. I unplugged my MAF when running and about 20 secs later or so it died. So I think its good? I am running my stock KA single over head came MAF. I got a z32 n62 TT MAF I haven't used yet, but I heard that I am not able too unless I get a piggyback system or something. Can't remember.

There is a video here someone posted of their car running like crap from old gas. I wonder if I am getting the same problems... I am embarrassed to say this but about 1/3 of my gas in the tank is old shit from 5 years ago and I put in recently some octane booster, fuel stabilizer, fuel injector cleaner, and 20 liters of 94 octane fuel, and changed out my fuel filter for a new one.

Do you think I just have to get the shit old gas out of its system? I mean I just don't get it. I haven't really changed shit since I last started it up 5 years ago and it ran better then. I've got just over 1/2 tank of fuel in the car now.

I might try and pumping out the old shit today and putting in some new stuff. Then I can check that off my list.

[JDMRIDDAZ]

uh remove tank and clean it out...
u cant just clean it when its in car...
car sat 5yrs..so that shoulda been the first thing to do
i bet u do this and it will run great