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Old 03-06-2006, 12:31 PM   #1
AuburnRyan
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Subframe Spacers - I overanalyze everthing...

So I know I want some rear subframe spacers to rid some slop...now the question is, will I notice any difference in comfort between aluminum spacers and polyurethane like the energy suspension pieces?

If I got the polyurethane, I'd be wanting to cut out a portion on top pieces so I could slip them in without dropping hte whole thing...not smart?

And since you've read this far and I haven't been keeping up on people's comments, tell me who makes the best/cost efficient spacers...


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Old 03-06-2006, 12:56 PM   #2
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I am by no means an expert in this field, but the way I interpret it is as follows.

I wouldnt cut a polyurethane bushing because if you want to slide em on, just buy the collars that I've heard about.

Aluminum and Polyurethane are very different, poly urethane still has play, it doesnt have as much, but there is still play, and the difference between them and aluminum is huge, because aluminum has no play.

but i dont know what im talking bout
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Old 03-06-2006, 01:00 PM   #3
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I just got the energy master bushing set. It comes with polyurethane "inserts" for the rear subframe. i also have SPL "collars" in there right now. I plan on using the inserts and collars to hopefully eliminate the slop. The Inserts actiualy go around the bushing and the collars go above and under the bushing.
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Old 03-06-2006, 01:23 PM   #4
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I have the 8-piece auminum inserts. DO it!!! don't wuss out, metal is better. You don't get grinding or anything from metal -to-metal contact, but it does firm up the feel of the car considerably.
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Old 03-06-2006, 02:34 PM   #5
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Lol at '...don't wuss out...'. Get aluminum!
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Old 03-06-2006, 11:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sideview_180sx
I have the 8-piece auminum inserts. DO it!!! don't wuss out, metal is better. You don't get grinding or anything from metal -to-metal contact, but it does firm up the feel of the car considerably.
If you're telling him to not "wuss-out" then why did you? SPL sells solid aluminum bushing replacements...not just inserts.
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krustindumm
If you're telling him to not "wuss-out" then why did you? SPL sells solid aluminum bushing replacements...not just inserts.
He didn't "wuss out", homeboy. I have the SPL ones... its just 8 pieces of aluminum that "insert" around the bushings...

You were confused...
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:02 AM   #8
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Oh my god- now you've got me going agian - LOL - search, analyze, search, analyze....

I was really just planning on the collars for ease of install...how important are the inserts or new replacement bushings (i.e. aluminum)? Will the collars take out the slop, or di I neeed more, more, more.....

Car is a daily and see's very little track time...
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftSpecial180
He didn't "wuss out", homeboy. I have the SPL ones... its just 8 pieces of aluminum that "insert" around the bushings...

You were confused...
SPL sells both aluminum inserts and complete bushing replacements made of aluminum. Sounds like you just have the inserts.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbrindley
SPL sells both aluminum inserts and complete bushing replacements made of aluminum. Sounds like you just have the inserts.
I see...ooopppsss
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:55 AM   #11
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Only a few companies make the Uerthane because you have to drop the entire sub-frame to install, therefore the sell less. These are way better for Daily Driving and some weekend warrior.

The Aluminum is easier to install if you get the notched ones... if your hardcore you can get true Solids and remove the bushing. These are good for Daily Driving but can be harsh... excelent for Weekend and Full Time Warrior.

Dropping the Full Subframe is NOT a walk in the park. I highly suggest the use of a Lift, and leave the Wheels ON... this makes it soooo much easier to lower the car onto the subframe. I have done this in a driveway with several Jacks... I almost lost my thumb!

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Old 03-07-2006, 05:34 PM   #12
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yay, I love tech school with the lifts/air tools..., I think I may go with solid full aluminum then

anyone have any personal stories on going full aluminum for daily driver/backroad touge?
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Old 03-07-2006, 06:09 PM   #13
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if going full aluminum, dropping the subframe isn't the only hard part... Removing the stock bushings is a biatch.
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Old 03-07-2006, 06:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadScientist
Dropping the Full Subframe is NOT a walk in the park. I highly suggest the use of a Lift, and leave the Wheels ON... this makes it soooo much easier to lower the car onto the subframe. I have done this in a driveway with several Jacks... I almost lost my thumb!

Peace
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Getting the subframe out and in with shit bushings or shitbushings with collars is easy as hell.

Its the full aluminums that get bitchy since you have to line them up perfect and then go around tightening each side to keep it from wedging.

I got the full aluminums.

If you have a loud exhaust or an N/A KA with any exhaust the diff whine doesnt matter.

The clunking is bad though if you have a crappy diff. if you have a good one it only happens in first.
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Old 03-07-2006, 06:49 PM   #15
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well polyurethane spacers doesn't necessarily mean you have to drop the whole subframe, check out peak performance's rear subframe bushing spacers, the upper spacers are slit for install without dropping the whole subframe.
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Old 03-07-2006, 09:02 PM   #16
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i just removed my subframe and i sell slotted collars and full bushings, aluminum only.

slotted collars are a WAY easier install and will make a difference. However, after driving my buddies car whom i gave full aluminum bushings to i decided that i have to have them.

btw, you slot the bottom piece, not the top piece.

you drop each bolt and let the corner of the subframe sag. you can place the whole collar over the top bushing and then you squeeze in the slotted collar around the bushing underneath. easy peasey
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:45 AM   #17
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Bing -

Are you sure the bottom is slotted, not the top? Look at Daryl's (BjorkLuv or something) writeup in the FAQ...I don't see how the bottom would need slots- remove bolt, insert clooar on bottom, and replace bolt...
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:04 AM   #18
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yeah you're prolly right now that i think about it...

i havent done it since august soo..
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:58 AM   #19
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1. buy the spl subframe collars

2. you dont have to drop the subframe, jsut lower it like 1.5 inches, its like 10 bolts total

3. the whole swap takes about 40 misn to an hour

4. it will be the best 85 bucks you ever spent
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evoandy
if going full aluminum, dropping the subframe isn't the only hard part... Removing the stock bushings is a biatch.

Only took a couple hours with basic garage tools, BFH, prybar, butane torch, chisels.

Torch the bushing and pound out the center, pry out the rubber, chisel out the sleeve.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:04 PM   #21
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putting the spl solid ones in was a nightmare, definatley more solid though
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:20 PM   #22
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i hear lots of stories about the alum. collars makeing noise when driving like squeeking when cornering and braking. i was thinking about going with the peak performance collars from phase2 that are urathane. http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2mot...epeursubu.html they eliminate some slop but dont produce noise like the alum. ones.

than again....i do have a blitz nur spec exhaust and i do listen to music kinda loud at times..with a small sub. u think i would notice the noise of the alum. collars?????
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:26 PM   #23
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would putting grease around the aluminum collars stop the squeaking?
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:10 PM   #24
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I'm going with the peak unit because I'm a wuss, and want whatever silence I can save...I hate clunking LSD's...LOL

I'll reply back here with my opion after install.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:11 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krustindumm
Only took a couple hours with basic garage tools, BFH, prybar, butane torch, chisels.

Torch the bushing and pound out the center, pry out the rubber, chisel out the sleeve.

The Torch is useless.

Take a C clamp and tear the center out.

Use a saw to cut two notches in the top of the bushing case center.

Pry the notched lip up.

Hammer a screwdriver / punch in between the casing and the subframe.

once it goes all the way through it will just fall out.

I spent like 2 days trying to do it with the torch and cutting the bushing shell out. I spend 20 minutes doing the other three my way.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuburnRyan
I'm going with the peak unit because I'm a wuss, and want whatever silence I can save...I hate clunking LSD's...LOL

I'll reply back here with my opion after install.
just get the ebay gear... it isnt like it is any different from anyone else.

they are just hunks of aluminum no matter where you buy it... save your money.

hell, i have like 8 sets of the slotted collars here now...
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:33 PM   #27
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I think he is talking about the poly ones
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:00 PM   #28
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eeeeeeeeewww... why?

just get the collars then. you retain your stock bushings anyways so there is still some give.

i just pressed in the full aluminum bushings into my subframe this evening.
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:31 PM   #29
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Correct - I ordered peak urethane collars from Phase2. Keeping the stock bushings, but hope to firm it up.

Now the car won't start - *crying*
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:09 PM   #30
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yay!! hey let me know how those work out(poly)!!!! i've been wanting to get them.
im eagar to hear about them
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