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Old 08-03-2012, 10:53 PM   #1
Tkwjh07
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Ka24de rebuild help.

Hello. I was wondering if rebuilding a motor is easy? Ok obviously I don't mean like easy easy. But can I do it if I have some sort of common sense. I know enough about cars. However I don't know if I'm ready. But hey how can I learn if I do not try right? I saw rebuild kits for 300-400 dollars and I have someone selling me a full ka24de with a blown head gasket. I just want your opinion if it is worth it.

Currently I have an s14 with a stock ka24de with insane timing chain rattle.

The whole other swap is 100 bucks.

I mean I have car knowledge and I know how to read and learn. But I would love helpful insight from others. Thank you for your time.

My goal is to rebuild the 2nd motor and I do it correctly. Rebuild the current motor for turbo.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:00 PM   #2
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There is very good info and knowledge on this and other websites man. Buy or download the repair manual for your vehicle it will help a lot. If you you read and put a lot of effort it can be done.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:04 PM   #3
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Chilton or is there a specific one? Thank you man.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:06 PM   #4
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Chilton is fine. I know there is another one but I can't remember. Haines I think it is. Try amazon or eBay cause autozone or any other car part store charges $30.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:09 PM   #5
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This will help man.www.ka-t.org :: View topic - How to build a KA24DE
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:10 PM   #6
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Ok. I'm gonna get an engine stand tomorrow and pick up the engine. And order the kit. People say I'm gonna take my head and block to the machine shop. What does that actually mean. I know they clean and shave the parts for the head gasket. But they also drill the piston place so you can put different pistons in it? If Im bombarding you with questions I'm sorry
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:11 PM   #7
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I found that link too :P
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:12 PM   #8
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Thanks for the support man.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:15 PM   #9
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Cool man and no problem. Yes the machine shop will take care of resurfacing and check it for cracks etc. talk to the machine shop your taking the block too since they will give u a better explanation about what it needs to be done for you to rebuild it.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:01 AM   #10
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TOOLS
You will need a lot of special tools
And machine work
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:46 AM   #11
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Don't lose anything be very organized when taking shit off lol it is easy after the machine shop does their job
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:46 AM   #12
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i did mine. its my first and i spent 2 month building it(taking my time)

if ur gonna rebuild replace every part you can, the only thing i didnt replace was rods and crank, because they where still good in spec. i had two buy two motors as the first one seller told me bad hg also but turned out to be the rod bearing and rods was chewed up, lucky i found one for 50 bucks. but with bad valves

main tools u really need are feeler gauge/piston compressor/12point 12mm socket for arp head bolts/micrometer(friend is a machinist)/ torque wrench,and basic tool.

I had complete head work and block work that include putting in new parts i bought for head, hot tanked,resurface, valve lash, valves area cut for new valves,ex

also had the crank polished and balanced

total for was over 1300$ in that alone for work. luckly the guy knock a few hundo out for paying in full,

i ended going ka-t during the build and cost came a little over a cost of a sr swap.

if your going turbo i would say do sr as its really a cheaper route, but if you wanna be differ then everyone go ka-t im one of like 5 in chicago area that i kno of. ka-t.org is a very good site about boosted ka join that
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:54 AM   #13
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Thanks guys. What exactly goes to the machine shop. I thought just the head and block. Do I need to send off the value springs and stuff inside too?
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:01 AM   #14
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #15
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Factory Service Manual. Get one. CHILTON manuals are good because they take lots of pictures.

Your entire head has to go to the machine shop. Your block too normally. Clearances need to be checked, piston walls need to be machined/finished, pumps and gaskets need to be replaced. A rebuild it a big job. It's possible if you take your time, stay organized and take care in choosing a reputable machine shop.

Good luck to you.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:11 PM   #16
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Wow thank you
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:15 PM   #17
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I actually am in the middle of doing the same thing, Sending the head to a machine shop will check for cracks as well as clean/valve job. They will check the head to make sure it will seat flat and if not "deck" it which is basically just take layers of aluminum of until its flat. Dont expect this to be cheap. My head wasnt cracked and im bringing the guy my own valve seals and im looking at $465..
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #18
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a full rebuild will run you around 1800-2000 depending on the machine shops prices. when i rebuilt my Ka, machine work ran me about 1200 and around 200 for the OEM gasket set from Nissan, plus 2-300 on parts you want on top(not including aftermarket parts). If you know what your doing, the rebuild will be pretty easy. Just take your time and dont cheap out because it will bite you back in the ass later on.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:37 PM   #19
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here mine just to show you. started on feb 2012 finished first week of april 2012.

When u finish doing the rebuild go ahead and tackle emissions stuff if u can,
i cleaned it up so much i bypasses unneeded vac lines and coolent lines.



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Old 08-04-2012, 03:46 PM   #20
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here is mine.

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Old 08-04-2012, 04:09 PM   #21
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yin and yang lol i love the idea with the spark plug wire i may have to steel that from you,
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:20 PM   #22
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yin and yang lol i love the idea with the spark plug wire i may have to steel that from you,
idea was to keep wires as far away from the turbo manifold. Im not a fan of wrapping turbo manifold, & i didnt have the cash to get it ceramic coated.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:33 PM   #23
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Damn. When i see your pictures it gives me inspiration guys. But the guy that was suppose to sell the motor won't bring it to me anymore even though he said he was. So now I'm stuck without a motor and a dream of rebuilding a motor. the only other motor i found was for 350 another ka24de motor with a exedy clutch. I don't know if that a good deal or not. Do you guys think I should buy that? and rebuild the motor that is in my car? or rebuild that motor?
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:39 PM   #24
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if you have the time and space, i would rebuild the original motor, thats if it needs to be.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:57 PM   #25
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with everything ready i would say it takes 2 or so hours

you would want to get this done at machine shop

bore hone- $150
recon rods- $60
crank polished and measured for correct bearings-$65
head resurfaced-$60
hot tank(optional) $40
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:13 PM   #26
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it goes both ways:
buy a used motor and get ur car running for another year and save up read up, or build a motor and be car less for a while unless u have another ride.

thats how i see it. but you dont know how that motor was abused or if it was cared for, i only buy motors that im going to use if i get to see it run.

go to harbor freigth site and sign up for newletter, i got coupons for pittyburg engine jack and a stand for 220 out the door.


and prices for work depends on shop.
some of importdude prices are higher or lower then what i paid. so dont count it to be exact.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:00 PM   #27
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Pulled off the valve cover. Looks good nothing milky ^.^

How I am organizing everything
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
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with everything ready i would say it takes 2 or so hours

you would want to get this done at machine shop

bore hone- $150
recon rods- $60
crank polished and measured for correct bearings-$65
head resurfaced-$60
hot tank(optional) $40
Wow thats not to expensive?!?! Why does everyone complain about machine shops?
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:31 PM   #29
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quality of labor
in orlando there really isnt any machine shop that you will be 100% garanteed they did the right thing, its more a hit and miss thing, not saying that the shop that charged him did a shitty job , i havent seen there work , but when looking for shop , check there equipment , how old is it, how clean is it, do they have a flex plate for the KA , do they even use a flex plate, there is a guy in casselberry off 17/92 that is farely new in town and has pretty much newer machines , i know he does not have a flex plate for KA when i went there end of last year,but hes out to make a name for himself here in town, clean shop, not to many employees, and dude was straight no BS ..... his prices where inthat range , 40 over , bore and hone hot tank , resurface block was around 300, head work stock you providing all material came around 250, now this was oem spec and you had to bring everything for the measurement
basickly he did the machinig you did the building part, he charged around 100 for the block assembly and around 200 to give you a short block
there is another one on old winter garden road between kirkman and jefferson that assembled a KA for me about same price , just it took them for ever to get it done and when i went to pick up they where trying to charge me for installing forged rods and piston because that made it a race motor ....... i laughed and argued so they didnt charge it
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:39 PM   #30
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quality of labor
in orlando there really isnt any machine shop that you will be 100% garanteed they did the right thing, its more a hit and miss thing, not saying that the shop that charged him did a shitty job , i havent seen there work , but when looking for shop , check there equipment , how old is it, how clean is it, do they have a flex plate for the KA , do they even use a flex plate, there is a guy in casselberry off 17/92 that is farely new in town and has pretty much newer machines , i know he does not have a flex plate for KA when i went there end of last year,but hes out to make a name for himself here in town, clean shop, not to many employees, and dude was straight no BS ..... his prices where inthat range , 40 over , bore and hone hot tank , resurface block was around 300, head work stock you providing all material came around 250, now this was oem spec and you had to bring everything for the measurement
basickly he did the machinig you did the building part, he charged around 100 for the block assembly and around 200 to give you a short block
there is another one on old winter garden road between kirkman and jefferson that assembled a KA for me about same price , just it took them for ever to get it done and when i went to pick up they where trying to charge me for installing forged rods and piston because that made it a race motor ....... i laughed and argued so they didnt charge it
Cool thanks man! Ill definitely look into that.

Can you explain to me what hone means?

I know bore is to "bore" the piston cylinder to have put a bigger one in

deck is to shave the top of the block
and mil is the head.
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