Turbo talk?!?!?!?!

[s13mikesr20]

so im in the market for a bigger turbo(on a t25 bottom mount)

was wondering should i go t28 20g td04thousand

disco potater

whats erveryones thought

power goals on the forged sr is 350-400

currently car is on 555cc z32 enthalpy tune greddy fmic cams etc etc

want the best power band without big stress on the turbo

[K_style]

First of all, you should've searched before making this thread. So see below.

not many T2 flange turbos will get you to 400whp but it's been done before.
You will definitely need bigger injectors and a good tune.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/124925...-sr-motor.html
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/432611...-gtx2867r.html

[s13mikesr20]

manny pardons sir you are right

i just like talking to you guys

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by s13mikesr20

manny pardons sir you are right

i just like talking to you guys

You wanna talk turbo thats fine. What is your budget like?

[s13mikesr20]

hmmmm id say payments skys the limit(but thats used or one really cool company)

but out right buying a turbo id say 500$ to start got my 35r for 500 thats was a steal lol(but thats on my other built sr20 )

[rbs14kouki]

Precision 5130 is in t2 (i was told they compare it to the gt3071r) its good for your whp goal !

[ultimateirving]

I like my dbb 2871r, but the .86 hotside is a little laggy.
If you are happy with aroud 350whp or so you could get away with the 2871r with a .64 hotside, should spool reasonably well and you will be within its limits without exhausting it.

Depends on how big ur cams are too

[s13mikesr20]

256 both sides

and i was thinking the same thing but that turbo is hard to source in working condition for 500

[s13mikesr20]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

Precision 5130 is in t2 (i was told they compare it to the gt3071r) its good for your whp goal !

i didnt even see you post im sorry lolhow much they go for?

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by s13mikesr20

256 both sides

and i was thinking the same thing but that turbo is hard to source in working condition for 500

Its true, i paid 600 for mine used, and that was a homie discount

[oni jake]

2871r .64 will suit your needs. Get a disco potato if you ever plan on upgrading block internals in the future.

[unijabnx2000]

Originally Posted by oni jake

2871r .64 will suit your needs. Get a disco potato if you ever plan on upgrading block internals in the future.

A disco potato is a 2860rs which is smaller than a 2871r

[Kingtal0n]

I like talking about this stuff too. people on forums seem to hate it though.

Heres a perfect example car for the basic cookie cutter T25 bottom mount GT2871r setup.

Just the basics. 2871r 64, 256* tomei cams, 550cc/min injectors,

I tuned this on an AEM but you can use a power FC and get the same results and save some cash.
the greddy intake was unnecessary. So was the aftermarket exhaust manifold.
17psi 93 octane stock internals, S15 engine, Six Speed transmission
This is the most power I recommend anybody push an OEM internals SR20DET if they expect to get 100,000 miles from it
It would have spooled quicker without the intake and exhaust manifolds.

[Kingtal0n]

And for comparison, this was one of my cars

Top mount home-made manifold (made from Weld-els schedule 40)
50 trim compressor, 48 area radius exhaust
264* Brian Crower cams (first time I tried them, good results) and comp cams springs
It had internals so I didnt mind pushing it past 350rwhp
"freddy" intake manifold (also first time trial)
S15 engine (14 cover) with a 5-speed trans behind a single plate Ogura clutch (LOVED that clutch)

A video of the car before painted (but with a 60-1 compressor and HKS 272 cams)


18psi pump gas (now on BC 264's and a 50 trim compressor, same back housing 48 area radius, I changed everything over when I took it apart for paint)






color is GM sunset metallic, always wanted a Camaro in that colour so I figured my 240 would be my camaro

[oni jake]

Originally Posted by unijabnx2000

A disco potato is a 2860rs which is smaller than a 2871r

Fuck, you're right!

[Kingtal0n]

What I liked about the top mount T3 housing turbo was that it was particularly easy to remove and change, and the turbochargers are cheap (journal bearing 50 trim turbos are cheap) and also easy and cheap to rebuild. It also looks nice with a turbo blanket.

What I like about bottom mounts is, you can use the oem exhaust manifold, a ball bearing garret 2871r is water cooled, they are a bit farther from the brake master (but still USE A HEAT SHIELD). So for the price of a top mount journal bearing turbo + manifold, you can buy a ball bearing bottom mount and use the oem manifold, and get a water cooled turbo. They are just an enormous pain to remove, and additional water lines add a degree of complexity. another plus is you can use an internal gate, bypassing the cost and plumbing of an external which I think is great for a daily driver. simple is better usually.

[s13mikesr20]

Ok so I made 320 on a s14 t28 on my sr motor(internals pistons built bottom to top)this is my wifes motor im talkingabout.same specs just higher compression(9.5:1) so I dont have to run alot of boost just want to make sure I have enough flow and im not restricting the piss outta the motor so thats my problem

I dont have to run crazy boost but I cant have a restrictive setup aka a t25 which looks like a small peach turbo I want the turbo with best response and flow for the cool guy power

[unijabnx2000]

Budget, power goal, intended use??

[Driftwire]

^ Did you like not read the whole thread? or did you just kinda hop in here...

(subbed though, love good turbo info)

[Mikester]

With a bottom-mount turbine, you're generally gonna have to run 20-25psi of boost to see 400hp at the wheels... key word being 'generally' as there are a few exceptions to this on the market I'm sure.'

In the 350-400whp realm, a good EBC and a very solid tune are imperative- This is sort of the 'cusp' of where the SR starts to push the envelope, so to speak... great time to ditch the Enthalpy/JWT canned tune and get a standalone/dyno tune.

350 and 400 on a bottom mount are completely different animals. If you want a more 'instant' feel in terms of where the boost kicks in; like light to light in traffic, eating Mustangs, Vettes etc... then a smaller, 330-360rwhp-capable turbine will definitely be more fun. If you want to have more power, and don't mind the boost not really kicking in till 4500+rpm; then a 400whp-capable turbine would be a better choice.

[unijabnx2000]

Originally Posted by Driftwire

^ Did you like not read the whole thread? or did you just kinda hop in here...

(subbed though, love good turbo info)

little of both

[s13mikesr20]

Originally Posted by Mikester

With a bottom-mount turbine, you're generally gonna have to run 20-25psi of boost to see 400hp at the wheels... key word being 'generally' as there are a few exceptions to this on the market I'm sure.'

In the 350-400whp realm, a good EBC and a very solid tune are imperative- This is sort of the 'cusp' of where the SR starts to push the envelope, so to speak... great time to ditch the Enthalpy/JWT canned tune and get a standalone/dyno tune.

350 and 400 on a bottom mount are completely different animals. If you want a more 'instant' feel in terms of where the boost kicks in; like light to light in traffic, eating Mustangs, Vettes etc... then a smaller, 330-360rwhp-capable turbine will definitely be more fun. If you want to have more power, and don't mind the boost not really kicking in till 4500+rpm; then a 400whp-capable turbine would be a better choice.

I want a powerband around 4500 that way I can save a little gas and im on the cd009 350z trans so I got gears to play with....

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by s13mikesr20

I want a powerband around 4500 that way I can save a little gas and im on the cd009 350z trans so I got gears to play with....

Get a 2871r, end thread haha.
with the higher compression your gonna have plenty of spool by 4500

[s13silvia123]

I've notice everyone on here runs the same cam lifts like 264, 256, or 272s across IN and EX. Why not try to run something stagger like 264 IN and 272 EX to help laggy turbo setups to spool better.

[s13mikesr20]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Get a 2871r, end thread haha.
with the higher compression your gonna have plenty of spool by 4500

thank you 2871r it is


CLOSE THY THREAD!!!!

[PoorMans180SX]

Top mount TD06SL2 20G with an MHI CHRA that has been proven to take extreme abuse in the DSM world.

422hp at 22psi. Drop in a billet 7-blade, extended tip KTS wheel and it will be even more impressive.



Spool looks pretty similar to 2871R as well (not above car).



Just food for thought.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

I've notice everyone on here runs the same cam lifts like 264, 256, or 272s across IN and EX. Why not try to run something stagger like 264 IN and 272 EX to help laggy turbo setups to spool better.

Changing duration on a set of cams alone isn't going to cause any major difference. Way too much varience without knowing how it changes LSA or overlap, you'll never really know why or how things change.

I'll forever be a fanboy of the keep duration the same and cam sets the same. There are few cars that run split duration setups that really make 'big changes' and most of the time they end up being on high end power cars with extensive degree work.

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Top mount TD06SL2 20G with an MHI CHRA that has been proven to take extreme abuse in the DSM world.

422hp at 22psi. Drop in a billet 7-blade, extended tip KTS wheel and it will be even more impressive.



Spool looks pretty similar to 2871R as well (not above car).



Just food for thought.

^^Yup, definitely cool! Ray (FlipRayzin240sx) ran a TD06 in his S14 in Okinawa- that thing was MEAN but fucking obnoxious when the WG cracked open haha!

Originally Posted by codyace

Changing duration on a set of cams alone isn't going to cause any major difference. Way too much varience without knowing how it changes LSA or overlap, you'll never really know why or how things change.

I'll forever be a fanboy of the keep duration the same and cam sets the same. There are few cars that run split duration setups that really make 'big changes' and most of the time they end up being on high end power cars with extensive degree work.

^^THIS^^

I've seen 256/264 staggered setups do really well... Everything Codyace mentioned needed to be done; and any real 'gains' were negligible at best... but HEY- at least they can say they 'did it'

[s13silvia123]

The same as I have seen done on 264 and 272 setups on SRs. I havent seen it done on a KAs yet but manilly on RBs, EVOs, and few or motors who done well on stagger setups. Codyace is right when you do it correctly, you'll get some great results out of it.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by codyace

Changing duration on a set of cams alone isn't going to cause any major difference. Way too much varience without knowing how it changes LSA or overlap, you'll never really know why or how things change.

I'll forever be a fanboy of the keep duration the same and cam sets the same. There are few cars that run split duration setups that really make 'big changes' and most of the time they end up being on high end power cars with extensive degree work.

I completely agree with this. There are a TON of factors that go into a proper cam choice. Some lift and duration differences can pay dividends, but it's entirely dependent on your setup.

Anything with this small of turbo should definitely not be running a larger exhaust cam.