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Old 02-18-2013, 05:26 AM   #1
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Billet 2860rs Wheel worth it?

Has anyone tried a billet 2860rs wheel?

I recently upgraded from a gt2560r (stock S14 turbo), to a gt2860rs. I got it used, but there is no shaft play, and turbine blades look in very good shape. The compressor blade looks a little rough, not bad, but I can see a few places where the blades are not perfectly smooth.

I was thinking about putting in a 71mm compressor wheel, but found that I can get a billet 60mm wheel for it. The specs are as follows:

In: 47.24mm
Ex: 60mm
Bore: 6mm
Dual 6-blade

Now being that it is billet, they are able to and I quote "modify the length between the blade end and the hub by reducing the wheel center hub, and then, the blades would be longer to increase more the air-flow entering to the compressor housing"

This should decrease spool time a little, because it removes mass from the outside of the wheel, and should give a little more top end because of the longer blades. They estimate around 10-15% more flow.

I would normally not consider it, but have to take the turbo off anyways because I have a leak between the manifold and the turbo.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:34 AM   #2
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That just is some marketing BS ... of course a better made wheel should provide better results, but it is not going to make miracles.

The cost involved in changing the wheel is going to be at least half the whole turbo value when it was new. The question now is simple : is it worth it to you ?

BTW the stock S14 turbo is not ball bearing, so it is not a gt2560r.

Also you should think about the reason your wheel is not in a good state, because this is going to happen with your new wheel too. It is usually caused by a decorating air filter that filters nothing, usually blitz (and copy) mushroom filters, or any wet type air filter used dry.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
That just is some marketing BS ... of course a better made wheel should provide better results, but it is not going to make miracles.

The cost involved in changing the wheel is going to be at least half the whole turbo value when it was new. The question now is simple : is it worth it to you ?

BTW the stock S14 turbo is not ball bearing, so it is not a gt2560r.

Also you should think about the reason your wheel is not in a good state, because this is going to happen with your new wheel too. It is usually caused by a decorating air filter that filters nothing, usually blitz (and copy) mushroom filters, or any wet type air filter used dry.
mine has it, replacement, so if it breaks they often put in the 2560R.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:55 AM   #4
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The billet wheels they are talking about definitely do have a smaller hub and more blade surface area. How this effects flow or spool, I am not so certain of.

They are most likely using a Kawasaki Turbo Systems Japan billet wheel, which you can get through the manufacturer directly for a lot cheaper, then send in to them for a balance if you'd like. I've used a few of them on Holset turbos that I have rebuilt for people, they are very nice wheels.

What you need to decide is if you plan to upgrade from the 2860 ever. If you're going to eventually go to a bigger turbo, it's kind of pointless to spend the extra money on a billet wheel now. If you plan on sticking with the 2860, then sure, the billet wheel is worth it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
That just is some marketing BS ... of course a better made wheel should provide better results, but it is not going to make miracles.

Not looking at miracles, they said about 10-15%, so maybe 30-40 more HP, that would be a nice middle ground between a 2860rs and 2871r. Without the spool loss of a 2871r

Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
The cost involved in changing the wheel is going to be at least half the whole turbo value when it was new. The question now is simple : is it worth it to you ?
Cost of billet wheel is $250, cost to have it balanced is $59, so about $309, I would gladly pay that for a 30-40hp gain. If that be the case. Hence the question if anyone has used one and had a dyno to back it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Road2Perfection View Post
mine has it, replacement, so if it breaks they often put in the 2560R.
There is a small difference between the two, mostly the gt2560r has a 55 trim, while the gt2860rs has a 62 trim, same diameter, but pulls more air



Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
BTW the stock S14 turbo is not ball bearing, so it is not a gt2560r.

Actually yes it is. The S13s came with a journal bearing, the S14/S15 turbo are ball bearing. Quote from Garrett's Website "Turbine housing (PN 466541-4 only) is cast from high-nickle "Ni-Resist" material Turbine wheel (PN 466541-4 only) is cast from "Inconel" material for extreme applications OEM turbocharger on Nissan SR20DET engine"

That is for the GT2560R.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
Also you should think about the reason your wheel is not in a good state, because this is going to happen with your new wheel too. It is usually caused by a decorating air filter that filters nothing, usually blitz (and copy) mushroom filters, or any wet type air filter used dry.
It came used that way, it wasn't bad enough to warrant replacing, but since I have to take the damn thing off again (bolt must have loosened up and hence the exhaust leak), I am going to upgrade it when I'm back in the states. I use a custom intake with a K&N filter, that I keep wet, and clean every 10k miles, even though they say you can go 50k miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
The billet wheels they are talking about definitely do have a smaller hub and more blade surface area. How this effects flow or spool, I am not so certain of.

They are most likely using a Kawasaki Turbo Systems Japan billet wheel, which you can get through the manufacturer directly for a lot cheaper, then send in to them for a balance if you'd like. I've used a few of them on Holset turbos that I have rebuilt for people, they are very nice wheels.

What you need to decide is if you plan to upgrade from the 2860 ever. If you're going to eventually go to a bigger turbo, it's kind of pointless to spend the extra money on a billet wheel now. If you plan on sticking with the 2860, then sure, the billet wheel is worth it.
This is the first I have heard of this, I'll have to check them out, I'm looking at $250 for the billet wheel, but if I can get it directly from Kawasaki, I would feel better, the better price would be a bonus if it is cheaper.

I think I will stick with the gt2860rs for a while, I am overseas till Sept/Oct, I was planning on doing more, but after I get home, I'll be building my SLC, and the 240 will just be a tinker toy for the time being.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:16 PM   #6
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anyone done this mod yet ?
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitaraholic View Post
Not looking at miracles, they said about 10-15%, so maybe 30-40 more HP, that would be a nice middle ground between a 2860rs and 2871r. Without the spool loss of a 2871r



Cost of billet wheel is $250, cost to have it balanced is $59, so about $309, I would gladly pay that for a 30-40hp gain. If that be the case. Hence the question if anyone has used one and had a dyno to back it up.



There is a small difference between the two, mostly the gt2560r has a 55 trim, while the gt2860rs has a 62 trim, same diameter, but pulls more air






Actually yes it is. The S13s came with a journal bearing, the S14/S15 turbo are ball bearing. Quote from Garrett's Website "Turbine housing (PN 466541-4 only) is cast from high-nickle "Ni-Resist" material Turbine wheel (PN 466541-4 only) is cast from "Inconel" material for extreme applications OEM turbocharger on Nissan SR20DET engine"

That is for the GT2560R.



It came used that way, it wasn't bad enough to warrant replacing, but since I have to take the damn thing off again (bolt must have loosened up and hence the exhaust leak), I am going to upgrade it when I'm back in the states. I use a custom intake with a K&N filter, that I keep wet, and clean every 10k miles, even though they say you can go 50k miles.



This is the first I have heard of this, I'll have to check them out, I'm looking at $250 for the billet wheel, but if I can get it directly from Kawasaki, I would feel better, the better price would be a bonus if it is cheaper.

I think I will stick with the gt2860rs for a while, I am overseas till Sept/Oct, I was planning on doing more, but after I get home, I'll be building my SLC, and the 240 will just be a tinker toy for the time being.
I ended up with a 3071R and I got more power pretty much everywhere compared to a stock T28 on exhaust, mani, fmic, and sparks.

what I did was take the old head( ~160K miles on it LOL) Je 9,0:1 compression pistons, manley rods, bought a block with freshly machined crank.
smacked it together with a Gt3071R.
Injector Dynamics 1000CC mazworx fuelrail, stock fpr, Maxxecu standalone.
Plugged it all in, dyno, 300 whp without any adjusting of boost, running on base boost of the interigated waste on turbo.
converted to water IC with a hilariously small radiator, still rocking good.
1,1 Bar boost

Dyno below, cas issues so it just stopped at 6500, replaced to 24+1 disc, fine at 7K+, cyl1 knocked alot (found out reason later, running mild timings here, adjusted 1 degree across the board without hearing anything, but no dyno on that.)


Will be swapping to a P12 SR20VE head with new intake, custom made mani with a turbosmart 38MM wastegate next winter.
same fuelrail and everything else, just head, exhaust mani, inlet.
this will make POWER.
Keep in mind, I didn't take any precaution with the head, it got taken off the stock engine, but on the modified bottom end, dyno! the new will surely flow alot better, with wastegate and all that it should be putting out alot of power on a hilarious range
the 3071R is a very good match for a stock head, if you up the boost to 1,3 bar with a .76 AR on T25 flange it should rock well with response, mine is .86 AR, and it doesn't sound like it runs hard either, Don't have antisurge or bov, yet there is almost 0 fluttering at full boost, there is a just a minor sound, might be because of my water IC.

My conclusion is A (garret):
GT3071R, for a VE 3076
B (BW)
EFR all the way, doesn't really matter what, they will perform better at anything! but they are big, top mount is almost a must!
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:58 AM   #8
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pureturbos.com. $445 (billet wheel/machining/balance/seals/shipped).

heres my gt28rs they turned into 67mm

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Old 07-10-2014, 09:39 AM   #9
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i will do it,used a few of them on Holset turbos that I have rebuilt for people, they are very nice wheels.thanks
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