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Old 08-05-2004, 08:11 PM   #1
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Unhappy ka-t in desperate need of help!

I just spent the last 3 weeks installing my custom turbo kit. I've ran into every problem in the book times two. My setup includes:
t3/t04e 50 trim
internal wastegate 9 psi
crappy muffler shop dp, intercooler piping, and intake.
starion ic
cheap bov
300zx mafs
370cc injectors
jwt ecu
jgs log manifold.
Walbro 255lph pump

I finally started it up yesterday and it ran like it did when i rebuilt my engine. Running like the timing was retarded drastically. It wouldn't rev, and the idle was practically ripping my mounts apart. It ran perfect before I put the turbo on. I've messed with the vacuum lines a little. As far as i know the small line from the bottom of the tb runs into the uncompressed along with the breather on the valve cover. the medium sized one runs into the compressed air. I've found small leaks and fixed them all. My egr block off plate is sealed. I've double checked the 02 sensor, 300zx mafs, timing, leaks. my boost gauge now reads less than 10 (units) for vacuum.
My problem is I leave in a week and a half for college and I need a fix... quick.
Some things I thought it might be are the bpt valve somehow.... i didn't remove it. A vacuum line mishap. or an injector problem. I think the muffler shop also might have hit the vacuum canister. What kind of a problem would that cause?
thx.
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Old 08-05-2004, 08:18 PM   #2
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Well if your motor mounts are moving alot I would suggest you check your injectors and make sure all of them are spraying( pull the spark plug wire out if the motor feels like shutting off then your injectors are not sitting correctly and you need to take them out-possibly an o-ring has tore).
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Old 08-05-2004, 08:40 PM   #3
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I said that about the mounts to express how poorly it is running. All the injectors have new o-rings.. However the car is running extremely rich. I have pulled the plugs and everyone of them affects it.
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Old 08-05-2004, 08:52 PM   #4
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id check the maf.
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Old 08-05-2004, 08:53 PM   #5
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If the muffler shop cracked the carbon canister, that could be causing a leak. Check the canister for leaks. Use the soapy water trick.

Is that JWT ROM tuned for Z32 MAFS? Stupid question, but you never know...

My friend had a similar problem on his SR20DET, horrible whack idle, richness up the ass and NO LEAKS (we literally did everyting and anything that could have been done to any and every location that could spring a leak)... turns out there was a plug on the harness that was loose, he pushed it in and it was all gravy.

I doubt thats the case for you but its something to look into.

Good luck man
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Old 08-05-2004, 11:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazuo
If the muffler shop cracked the carbon canister, that could be causing a leak. Check the canister for leaks. Use the soapy water trick.

Is that JWT ROM tuned for Z32 MAFS? Stupid question, but you never know...

My friend had a similar problem on his SR20DET, horrible whack idle, richness up the ass and NO LEAKS (we literally did everyting and anything that could have been done to any and every location that could spring a leak)... turns out there was a plug on the harness that was loose, he pushed it in and it was all gravy.

I doubt thats the case for you but its something to look into.

Good luck man
I'll check that tomorrow. I figured that if it was leaking I should still be able to rev fine.

Yes. I have heard stories of jwt actually messing up recently and tuning for the wrong stuff. Prolly rumors.

Checked and double-checked. Wires were also checked for right splicing.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-05-2004, 11:46 PM   #7
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tighten up the bov a bit? injector/maf issue with ecu?
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Old 08-06-2004, 02:20 PM   #8
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seriosuly, check maf.
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Old 08-06-2004, 05:17 PM   #9
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I ran the car again tonight.
Checked bov
checked tps
checked mafs...I used a multimeter grounded to the battery. The feed from the battery was right ( 13V ) but the 0-5 volt line read the same as the battery. I'm guessing this is 90 percent of my problem. I don't know what to do besides clean it with electrical contact cleaner or whatever that stuff is called. If anybody has any ideas on fixing the mafs or anything else please let me know.
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Old 08-06-2004, 05:28 PM   #10
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pin b = white
pin c= black
pin e= black/white

make sure you wired it right.
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Old 08-06-2004, 10:16 PM   #11
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I checked all of those previously but i found the problem.
The ground for the mafs on the harness was faulty. Wasn't grounded to anything so I hardwired it and it runs ok...well it did. The first actual boost blew off a hose right away. It pulled awesome but after putting it back on i can't get it back to normal. I have the bov, a cheap bosch, hooked to the fpr vacuum along with my gauge and vented back into the intake pointing towards the compressor. Now all the boost is hard to get and extremely uneven. Very odd acceleration. Really jerky. It's getting hard to get the bov to vent. Have to rev pretty hard. I've checked and checked for leaks but i can't find anything. I'm lost again.
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Old 08-06-2004, 11:57 PM   #12
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What do you mean hard to keep the bov from venting? Do you have any pics of your setup, that would help alot. How is your bov recirculation system setup?
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Old 08-07-2004, 12:32 AM   #13
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what i meant was it acts like it's not making any boost. the bov doesn't vent when it did earlier...I'll try to get picks by tomorrow.
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:55 AM   #14
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you may have fried your maf. Proper way to check maf is to take the voltmeter - to the black maf wire (ground) and check the two other wires. One wire should have a 5v constant, and the other should be about .5 volts. The .5 volt wire SHOULD show a rise in voltage when you open the throttle. If none of this is showing, and you get battery voltage, then you know your MAF is definitely fried. You might want to check the ECU as well. Tap the ecu pins (for MAF) and make sure the ecu is sending the 5 volt reference and receiving a signal.

diagnose it correctly, don't just go buying parts. Unless you like doing that, then go ahead.
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Old 08-08-2004, 02:58 AM   #15
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I already tested the mafs. I found the problem to be the fpr vacuum hose cracked. Now I think the problem is that the bosch isn't cutting it as a bov. I'll have to find a 1g dsm or something...perhaps someone has one laying around..?
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Old 08-08-2004, 04:21 AM   #16
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Well I am using a 1st gen dsm bov and it works pretty good. but I have notice that it is alittle sluggish, it still spools up pretty good because of my t-3 turbo, but still sluggish. If you are on a budget I suggest this bov, but if you can spend some cash I suggest a hks ssqv. However, that is cool that you fixed your problem though.
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