Help setting up Power FC - SR20 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

CompleteXen · 08-11-2015, 01:32 AM

I recently got my SR into my S13 and decided to grab some injectors and am having some issues setting them with the PowerFC.

Things worth noting: I am running a 255lph walbro fuel pump, stock compression, stock fpr, 850cc modified wrx injectors, z32 maf, and IACV delete.

While playing with the PFC I decided to reset it and slap a new map on there. Which has caused some major issues with idling. Before the reset the car idled high, around 1,100-1,300 which was fine as this is a track only car. But after the reset the car WILL die.

I set the ignition and fuel map to Enthalpy's base map so that I can try and drive the car to get it tuned with no success. The injectors have been toned down to 43.5% with a latency of +0.18. The injectors were tested to be 3ms @ 5000rpm and 12ms @ 2500rpm. And Subaru's specs for the injectors latency are 2.79, 1.49, 0.98, 0.68, 0.38.

Sadly since the car is extremely sporadic I am unable to get a stable AFR. Idle has been played with, before it could idle low as hell @600rpm, but now setting it to 1,400rpm won't even work.

Any help with this situation would be greatly appreciated. I am very new to the PowerFC but I have done my best to learn about it every way I can. If you have any ideas or know a way to help I am more than willing to listen. Thanks again.

-The Enthalpy map can be found here: http://rs-enthalpy.com/tech-info/.
This is also the same map it was running before reset.

Croustibat · 08-11-2015, 06:12 AM

That is why people pay for a tuner.

I suggest you do that.

Dboyizmlg · 08-11-2015, 07:49 AM

^best advice!

aga · 08-11-2015, 09:16 AM

when you reset the ecu,did you let the car idle? the power fc learns idle when it first opens after a reset, you have to let it idle for 10 minutes, after that 10 minutes with lights on, and 10 mins with AC on. of course you should adjust your injectors before all that. could your problems be caused by the IACV delete? most probable

i would suggest trying nismo 740 injectors cause they are perfecly matched as injector lag goes, to the stock ones.

Vell · 08-11-2015, 10:49 AM

Hello,

Most likely you forgot to change the AFM setting for your VG30 AFM

Do you have a datalogit or playing with the commander only ?

Kingtal0n · 08-11-2015, 12:43 PM

PM me your email addy and I will send you my excel file with all my tune and data.

CompleteXen · 08-11-2015, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Croustibat

That is why people pay for a tuner.

I suggest you do that.

If you payed attention and read, you would notice I am paying for one

.

Specifically PRT Performance. And again if you read, you would notice Im trying to get it to a base so I can drive it to the tuner, not hitting boost, not driving hard, not going past 3k rpm etc.

Most tuners don't have time to come to your house and get your car running just to take it to a dyno.. And I would rather have it running and idling before I tow it in case their is any other issues and no time is wasted.

CompleteXen · 08-11-2015, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vell

Hello,

Most likely you forgot to change the AFM setting for your VG30 AFM

Do you have a datalogit or playing with the commander only ?

Playing around with Commander only since I will be taking it to a tuner. Adjusted the AFM to VG30 a few days ago but still no luck. It did help with throttle response a lot though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

PM me your email addy and I will send you my excel file with all my tune and data.

Will do, I appreciate it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aga

when you reset the ecu,did you let the car idle? the power fc learns idle when it first opens after a reset, you have to let it idle for 10 minutes, after that 10 minutes with lights on, and 10 mins with AC on. of course you should adjust your injectors before all that. could your problems be caused by the IACV delete? most probable

i would suggest trying nismo 740 injectors cause they are perfecly matched as injector lag goes, to the stock ones.

I attempted to let it idle, but sadly it dies immediately and can't learn anything. I reset it so that it could adapt to the idle and map as it was just rebuilt. No AC or Lights. I am assuming its idle is bad due to IACV, but again it idled loppy but fine before reset. Im going to ask a buddy if I can borrow his 740's to test if injectors could be an issue.

Kingtal0n · 08-11-2015, 01:35 PM

idle speed is made with airflow. If the idle was high before, you had too much airflow. If nothing changed and suddenly the car wont even idle, you have a boost leak (or leak around the maf)

Kingtal0n · 08-11-2015, 01:41 PM

on a maf car you should not need a tuner using my map. The hardest part is just lining up the a/f values. Start by adjusting the global percentage to get your idle a solid 14.7 (WARMED UP ENGINE) or even slightly richer at 14.5, this is without headlights or A/C on. When you flip those on it will be richer, so leave them off for now. Then drive, it should be pretty close from there, if you see that is gets richer and richer as the RPM climbs you pull out injector latency. If it gets leaner and leaner as your rpms go up then you add injector latency.

At some point, the air fuel will pretty much be flat. It should be 15.0 or even 15.2 while cruising, and bounce around 14.7->15.2 like my excel file suggests. Be sure to read all the little hints. Turn OFF the O2 correction (narrowband O2 correction feature under ETC in the power FC needs to be OFF)

When you step down you want to see 11.5 or 11.0 at peak boost (9psi+) basically anything richer than 12:1 is fine. Its just a ballpark until you hit a real dyno with a real wideband sensor, then you can fine tune those areas yourself to make the wideband on the dyno read 12:1 up to 18psi of boost on 93. dyno wideband will always read slightly leaner than your in-car wideband if your in-car wideband is working right. Wideband in the car needs to be far from the turbo, at least 3 feet away, they hate to get HOT and if they get HOT they will read FALSE RICH. Your PFC knock count should not go much above 12 or 14. Sometimes 16 is fine. this mostly talks to you about timing, which my map is practically perfect, so there should be no problems there. Make sure you SET THE TIMING and CHECK THE TIMING with a real timing light. The CAS should be just about center (a little off center, slightly) when the engine is timed to 15* base setting. You cannot adjust the base timing on the PFC, it MUST be 15* there is no other option.

08-11-2015, 01:32 AM	#1
CompleteXen Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: DFW Age: 29 Posts: 126 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Help setting up Power FC - SR20 I recently got my SR into my S13 and decided to grab some injectors and am having some issues setting them with the PowerFC. Things worth noting: I am running a 255lph walbro fuel pump, stock compression, stock fpr, 850cc modified wrx injectors, z32 maf, and IACV delete. While playing with the PFC I decided to reset it and slap a new map on there. Which has caused some major issues with idling. Before the reset the car idled high, around 1,100-1,300 which was fine as this is a track only car. But after the reset the car WILL die. I set the ignition and fuel map to Enthalpy's base map so that I can try and drive the car to get it tuned with no success. The injectors have been toned down to 43.5% with a latency of +0.18. The injectors were tested to be 3ms @ 5000rpm and 12ms @ 2500rpm. And Subaru's specs for the injectors latency are 2.79, 1.49, 0.98, 0.68, 0.38. Sadly since the car is extremely sporadic I am unable to get a stable AFR. Idle has been played with, before it could idle low as hell @600rpm, but now setting it to 1,400rpm won't even work. Any help with this situation would be greatly appreciated. I am very new to the PowerFC but I have done my best to learn about it every way I can. If you have any ideas or know a way to help I am more than willing to listen. Thanks again. -The Enthalpy map can be found here: http://rs-enthalpy.com/tech-info/. This is also the same map it was running before reset.

08-11-2015, 09:16 AM	#4
aga Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Athens, Greece Age: 46 Posts: 580 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	when you reset the ecu,did you let the car idle? the power fc learns idle when it first opens after a reset, you have to let it idle for 10 minutes, after that 10 minutes with lights on, and 10 mins with AC on. of course you should adjust your injectors before all that. could your problems be caused by the IACV delete? most probable i would suggest trying nismo 740 injectors cause they are perfecly matched as injector lag goes, to the stock ones. __________________ My Build

08-11-2015, 06:12 AM	#2
Croustibat Nissanaholic! Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: France - Toulouse Age: 44 Posts: 1,851 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	That is why people pay for a tuner. I suggest you do that.

08-11-2015, 07:49 AM	#3
Dboyizmlg Nissanaholic! Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: SoCal (I.E.), San Berdino, Colton, Redlands Posts: 1,677 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	^best advice!

08-11-2015, 10:49 AM	#5
Vell Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: South Korea Posts: 4 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hello, Most likely you forgot to change the AFM setting for your VG30 AFM Do you have a datalogit or playing with the commander only ?

08-11-2015, 12:43 PM	#6
Kingtal0n Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida Age: 42 Posts: 4,829 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	PM me your email addy and I will send you my excel file with all my tune and data.

08-11-2015, 01:35 PM	#9
Kingtal0n Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida Age: 42 Posts: 4,829 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	idle speed is made with airflow. If the idle was high before, you had too much airflow. If nothing changed and suddenly the car wont even idle, you have a boost leak (or leak around the maf)

08-11-2015, 01:41 PM	#10
Kingtal0n Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida Age: 42 Posts: 4,829 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	on a maf car you should not need a tuner using my map. The hardest part is just lining up the a/f values. Start by adjusting the global percentage to get your idle a solid 14.7 (WARMED UP ENGINE) or even slightly richer at 14.5, this is without headlights or A/C on. When you flip those on it will be richer, so leave them off for now. Then drive, it should be pretty close from there, if you see that is gets richer and richer as the RPM climbs you pull out injector latency. If it gets leaner and leaner as your rpms go up then you add injector latency. At some point, the air fuel will pretty much be flat. It should be 15.0 or even 15.2 while cruising, and bounce around 14.7->15.2 like my excel file suggests. Be sure to read all the little hints. Turn OFF the O2 correction (narrowband O2 correction feature under ETC in the power FC needs to be OFF) When you step down you want to see 11.5 or 11.0 at peak boost (9psi+) basically anything richer than 12:1 is fine. Its just a ballpark until you hit a real dyno with a real wideband sensor, then you can fine tune those areas yourself to make the wideband on the dyno read 12:1 up to 18psi of boost on 93. dyno wideband will always read slightly leaner than your in-car wideband if your in-car wideband is working right. Wideband in the car needs to be far from the turbo, at least 3 feet away, they hate to get HOT and if they get HOT they will read FALSE RICH. Your PFC knock count should not go much above 12 or 14. Sometimes 16 is fine. this mostly talks to you about timing, which my map is practically perfect, so there should be no problems there. Make sure you SET THE TIMING and CHECK THE TIMING with a real timing light. The CAS should be just about center (a little off center, slightly) when the engine is timed to 15* base setting. You cannot adjust the base timing on the PFC, it MUST be 15* there is no other option.