SR20 Clutch issues driving me nuts

[solo_ryder]

Blacktop s13 motor / s14 chassis - swap done 10,000km ago
Spec stage 1 clutch new with swap
OEM flywheel resurfaced when swap was done
New slave cyl when swap done
Fresh mt90 with swap

Clutch has been ok since swap, except for the fact that it chatters slightly in first and reverse, but that may be due to bad subframe bushings in the back.

Recently, I have noticed that the pedal has become "chunky" feeling and hard to get into first and reverse.. Feel is also almost gone. I have also noticed that pedal pressure goes down in traffic and the car almost stalls on me as its trying to pull me forward when at a stop light. So I did this:

Replaced the master cylinder thinking it was leaking, filled with fluid and pushed fluid out of hole before installing into car to bleed air out.
New Isis short braided line from damper to slave as old rubber line looking bad
Adjusted clutch to be at maximum throw (adjustment screw at the very end of fork)
gravity bled entire system then bled damper first then slave

Same issue if not worse, engagement is almost off the floor now and issue still exists with it trying to stall car out at lights. I cannot find any leaks anywhere in system, fluid is clean. Very hard to get into gear.

I have also noticed that the slave cyl piston rod is not straight, seems to be at a slight angle? Photos:

http://i.imgur.com/B73XmPH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JtZv8t6.jpg

At this point I am thinking there is a internal issue with the pivot ball or pressure plate.. Anyone care to give some ideas? I can barely drive the car.

[Kingtal0n]

You can visually inspect the action of the slave while someone is pressing the pedal.

At this point I might start suspecting one of the "new" parts, like that slave, was just bad to begin with. It was a cheapy right?
Pretty easy to change, I would snag a used OEM slave and know within 5 minutes.

The reason you get some chatter from the clutch is because you arn't revving the engine high enough, or are manipulating the gas pedal while you are lifting your foot from the pedal. The ideal way to get going with it is to rev the engine out and then let your foot off the the gas, and let out on the clutch somewhat quickly. If you revved the engine high enough, it will engage and pull the car slightly and drop back just above idle. This is with the OEM flywheel, thats how we can get away with it, and it reduces the wear and tear on the clutch that you normally get from manipulating both the clutch and gas pedal simultaneously.

[cotbu]

What position is the clutch pedal in, for those pictures?, I have a different style boot, but my fork sits more forward than yours(pedal up), and my pin is straight, pedal up or down.

Checking the pivot ball can be done without pulling the trans, so start there.
Remove fluid cap and crack open the bleeder push the pin in and move the fork through its range of motion, after you verified the ball is OK then, move the fork so the throw out bearing is against the pressure plate, seat the pin back in the fork and bleed. I think if you still have an issue, you might as well pull the trans and inspect the other clutch components.
Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[solo_ryder]

Cotbu - clutch was up when the pics were taken.

I will try swapping the slave tomorrow and see what happens.

As for checking the pivot ball do I just remove the rubber fork boot and look inside?

[cotbu]

You should be able to feel it as well, by moving the fork. If the fork doesn't pivot but it kinda moves left and right? The fork is off the ball or it broke. You should be able to feel the sleeve sliding on the shaft, make sure it's(TOB) up against the pressure plate, and the fork is seated on the ball, before you install the slave.
HTMS.

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[Kingtal0n]

Oh my. The angle of the rod tells me that something is wrong. Your guess that the pivot ball might be broken or bent (they usually just break) or something with the way the clutch fork sits on the TO bearing could be a good one.

It should definitely be straight. If the slave is the right model and the problem happened suddenly, I would inspect really well inside the transmission bellhousing at the hardware.

[solo_ryder]

I am going to jack it up tomorrow and unbolt the slave and see what is going on with the fork. something there has to be up

[KiLLeR2001]

There are retaining clips on both the TOB sleeve and clutch fork. I hope you had those on when you went to install, otherwise the clutch fork can pop off.



Both clips shown above.

[solo_ryder]

I had them both on yes

[Kingtal0n]

It is also possible to install the fork backwards into the retainer clip. Did you use the FSM's picture while installing the fork to the clip?

[cotbu]

solo_ryder, really waiting to see what you find. It does look like the fork is definitely sitting wrong, and if it's what Kingtal0n suggested my guess is the fork isn't on the bearing sleeve anymore. So you would be able to feel that with your hands or even see it through the hole.

[solo_ryder]

Just to update this.. ripped the old clutch fork boot off and found the pivot ball sheared in half. Funny enough the clip is still holding the ball section so it is kinda still working.. hence why I was able to drive it still. Gonna take it to a friends hoist and drop the trans and replace it. Gonna do a new tob as well the spec one is crap.

Should I replace with a new oem ball or nismo? The nismo is mad overpriced and im gonna have to wait at least 1-2 weeks as im in canada.. oem maybe 2 days

Thanks for the help guys it was exactly what I was looking for

[rc1honda]

Originally Posted by solo_ryder

Just to update this.. ripped the old clutch fork boot off and found the pivot ball sheared in half. Funny enough the clip is still holding the ball section so it is kinda still working.. hence why I was able to drive it still. Gonna take it to a friends hoist and drop the trans and replace it. Gonna do a new tob as well the spec one is crap.

Should I replace with a new oem ball or nismo? The nismo is mad overpriced and im gonna have to wait at least 1-2 weeks as im in canada.. oem maybe 2 days

Thanks for the help guys it was exactly what I was looking for

Think circuit sports has one for much cheaper of you wanna go with a possible upgrade. Can't got wrong with OEM in this case either though.

How yours sheared in half of pretty crazy. Thing must of been 30 years old for the steel to degrade like that.

[KiLLeR2001]

You'll be fine with an OEM one. Part #: 30537-0H601

[jr_ss]

I'd run an OEM one before a Circuit sports or Isis or any other knock off brand.

[solo_ryder]

Ill get the oem. Don't trust CS stuff