SR just installed and doesn't crank over, need advice. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

90rps13 · 03-31-2005, 04:00 PM

Ok, I just installed a red-top SR20Det, hooked up everything and the motor doesn't want to turn over. My wiring is good, Yuri from heavythrottle wired for me. All plugs connected correctly, I cross-referenced another 240 with the same set-up so I know that it's good. Here's the problem. Starter doesn't even click or sound like it wants to turn the engine over. Just a click from the fusebox under the air filter is the only sound that is made. So, I tried to pop the clutch to get it started and nothing as well. I know it's getting fuel, I can smell the gas from out the exhaust. Checked all the fuses and they're good. New battery and spark plugs as well. So what do the experts think? Even if my starter is bad, it should have started when I tried popping the clutch, but it didn't even sound like it wants to come on. Supposedly everything was in working order when the motor was pulled out of the previous car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Already searched and read the sr20 faqs thread as well

the head · 03-31-2005, 04:08 PM

take your starter into an auto parts store and have it tested use that as your jumping off point

sepulchral · 03-31-2005, 04:12 PM

is your clutch sensor button broken, that happened to me and it was my clutch ssensor on the pedal, i just made a U shaped wire and pluged it into the plug after i took the sensor off.

check your alternator and IGN fuses

90rps13 · 03-31-2005, 04:26 PM

Fuses are all good, just checked. And clutch pedal sensor is also good. Still should want to come on when I pop clutch even if starter is bad.

If timing is off, could this be reason to not coming on at all? or maybe ignitor being bad cause both of these issues. What does the ignitor do exactly BTW?

sepulchral · 03-31-2005, 04:32 PM

u ever check for error codes? you most likely have a bad or misplaced ground... is your battery good?

420sx · 03-31-2005, 04:41 PM

yea make sure u grounded everything that needs to be grounded

90rps13 · 03-31-2005, 04:48 PM

Battery is new and positive that everything is hooked up right, grounds included. Haven't checked for codes yet. How do I go about doing that?

driftstyre · 03-31-2005, 05:23 PM

get out your test light and start with the starter. You can also run a 12V source straight into the starter soloniod. If the starter isn't getting power then trace it back to the ignition switch.

SequenceGarage · 03-31-2005, 06:36 PM

You're saying your harness is good, I assume you're talking about your UPPER harness. The lower harness from your car needs to be installed correctly or the starter wont crank. My guess is you either have the starter lead or the solenoid switch not connected.

The SR's have a different clip for the starter solenoid than the KA, so you need to cut the plug off the SR lower harness (99% of SRs come shipped with at least SOME of the lower harness on, 99.9% of the time the solenoid plug is on the engine. - if its not there you can use a terminal connector from home depot/crappy tire). Once that is spliced there is a 10 or 12 (I think 12, its been so long)mm ring terminal that bolts up to the starter solenoid as well. The way it works is you have 12v power always coming into the starter, but it is a "dead end" if you will. When the solenoid wire gets power it closes the circuit from the battery to the starter.

The starter is grounded through the engine. If your engine is not grounded proporly the starter will not crank. Make sure you have the 12 or 14 (again i cant remember) mm wire that goes to the intake manifold from the battery tray hooked up to the engine otherwise she will most likely not crank.

So wire it up properly, make sure you know its wiried correctly and try it. If still no dice be a balsy little shit and take the 10/12 ring terminal off the starter, plug the battery in and touch that lead to the other 10/12mm ring terminal (its a little wire that runs from the solenoid to the starter) the engine should crank, things should spark and you should get scared shitless.

Or if you wanna be more professional (and safer) about it, leave the terminal connected and have someone hold the key on "start" while you bring a multimeter to the terminal. The 10/12mm ring terminal that comes from the battery should be seeing 12.5v (or whatever your battery is at). The solenoid trigger should also read 12.5v (however one of them will either NOT be reading that / or will not be connected - unless your starter is REALLY blown -this i doubt).

Also trying to start a car for the first time from a jump start is pretty unlikely, I dont think you should assume that because it didnt start jumping it that there is anythign else wrong with the car. One step at a time dude, fix the starter and then if shes still no good check fuel pressure / injectors / spark / timing. Good luck.

rps13sh · 03-31-2005, 06:37 PM

it cant be a ecu problem?

90rps13 · 03-31-2005, 07:13 PM

Actually, I'm positive that the lower harness from the trans up to the alt, starter and oil plugs are all connected correctly as well. I haven't tried to jump start it either, it wouldn't be any different, it's a new battery(westco).
I did try popping the clutch in 2nd while another car pushed me from behind. And actually had it in gear for a while as they slowly pushed me. This should have over-rided the need for the starter which is why I'm thinking it's something else other than wiring or grounding.

This can't be an igniter or ecu gone bad? Anything besides the actual wiring? I guess I'll be checking ecu codes tonight to make sure.

SequenceGarage · 03-31-2005, 07:22 PM

no the ecu / ignitor etc doesnt play a role in cranking the engine. Only the signal from the key, the power to the starter, the starter itself, and the starters ground.

rps13sh · 03-31-2005, 08:18 PM

ok i will take a seat and watch from the sidelines.

usctom · 03-31-2005, 09:11 PM

I had a similar problem. Check all the connetions on the lower harness and make sure they are plugged in all the way. Also the wire on the starter likes to come undone too so check that.

90rps13 · 04-01-2005, 01:55 AM

ok, not sure what I did, but now it cranks over and actually starts. It idles very irratically and the motor shakes alot then after about 5 - 10 seconds it shuts off. I played with timing a little and where it was set initially was the best position. I have spark on all four cylinders and I have fuel injection on all four. What does this sound like? I checked codes off the ecu and I was getting "55". Which should mean no malfunctions according to the sr20 faq thread. Any ideas why it doesn't want to stay on? Oh, when I step on the gas I get no response.

the head · 04-01-2005, 07:54 AM

that is what mine did when engine was flooded did you put new plugs in it? could also be a leak somewhere in the IC piping look for major leaks and if you cannot find any spray all of the couplers with soapy water and watch for bubbles

also did you perform any modifications when the motor went in? or is it all stock?

drift freaq · 04-01-2005, 10:04 AM

make sure you have an air filter on your maf , a simple thing of not having an air filter on your maf will cause the engine to idle roughly like its missing and sometimes not idle at all.

90rps13 · 04-01-2005, 10:50 AM

I do have a few mods:
intake with Z32 maf
walbro fp
FMIC
HP + BOV
DP
and cheapy exhaust with like 2.5" piping
That's it...
New spark plugs, filter, oil
Now, I know that Z32 needs reprogramming of ECU. But, I basically have the same set-up as the guy I bought it from. He was running the Z32 and sent it to me with the same ecu that he was supposedly using with it. But, let's say it is a stock ecu...Would the car start at all with the Z maf? If so, could this be the cause of what's happening?

the head · 04-01-2005, 10:55 AM

is the BOV atmosphered? what brand is it?

I think you would get a MAF code from the ECU if you have the z32 hooked up and a stock ecu which means it should run fine below the 2500 limp home revlimiter also you may need to let it run for a bit my SR ran like shit for the first 4 or 5 min then it leveled out and all was well

90rps13 · 04-01-2005, 11:38 AM

Did your car turn off after a few seconds or it kept running crappy until it leveled off? It's a greddy type-s btw, but should matter if it's atmosphered or not if I'm not boosting or anything, right now it's just not idling good, then it turns off after a few secs. Yeah, no ecu codes, just 55. Should be all good.

SequenceGarage · 04-01-2005, 05:49 PM

Like I said before check your grounds, I am sure it is not a grounding only problem but it sounds like there may be a bad groudn somewehre. Do you have hte big ground from the battery tray connected to the intake manifold? The 2 10mm screws on the intake manifold tight and clean? Also the ground at the back of the motor on the exhaust side to firewall should be plugged in. Make sure your battery is grounded well too.

It also sounds like you have a huge vaccum leak. Is your brake booster hose connected? Any vaccum lines left open on the throttle body? Any openings in the piping? If you have a GReddy intercooler make sure you capped the hotpipe leading up to the intercooler! Finally make sure there are no openings after the mafs before the turbo as it would suck in way too much air.

If none of the above work I would suggest trying new spark plugs and different fuel

the head · 04-04-2005, 08:53 AM

it does matter whether it is atmosphered or not because BOVs will open under vacuum

my car took three starts on the fourth it still ran shitty but then leveled out

search for leaks in your IC piping and recirc your bov

03-31-2005, 04:00 PM	#1
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	SR just installed and doesn't crank over, need advice. Ok, I just installed a red-top SR20Det, hooked up everything and the motor doesn't want to turn over. My wiring is good, Yuri from heavythrottle wired for me. All plugs connected correctly, I cross-referenced another 240 with the same set-up so I know that it's good. Here's the problem. Starter doesn't even click or sound like it wants to turn the engine over. Just a click from the fusebox under the air filter is the only sound that is made. So, I tried to pop the clutch to get it started and nothing as well. I know it's getting fuel, I can smell the gas from out the exhaust. Checked all the fuses and they're good. New battery and spark plugs as well. So what do the experts think? Even if my starter is bad, it should have started when I tried popping the clutch, but it didn't even sound like it wants to come on. Supposedly everything was in working order when the motor was pulled out of the previous car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Already searched and read the sr20 faqs thread as well

03-31-2005, 04:08 PM	#2
the head Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: in a dark room mastering the art of typing with one hand Posts: 2,164 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	take your starter into an auto parts store and have it tested use that as your jumping off point __________________ I never knew you could do that with an eggplant

03-31-2005, 04:41 PM	#6
420sx Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Texas Age: 42 Posts: 3,960 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: 420sx Feedback Score: 0 reviews	yea make sure u grounded everything that needs to be grounded __________________ hydropgrahics! ls1......

03-31-2005, 06:36 PM	#9
SequenceGarage Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Age: 39 Posts: 82 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	You're saying your harness is good, I assume you're talking about your UPPER harness. The lower harness from your car needs to be installed correctly or the starter wont crank. My guess is you either have the starter lead or the solenoid switch not connected. The SR's have a different clip for the starter solenoid than the KA, so you need to cut the plug off the SR lower harness (99% of SRs come shipped with at least SOME of the lower harness on, 99.9% of the time the solenoid plug is on the engine. - if its not there you can use a terminal connector from home depot/crappy tire). Once that is spliced there is a 10 or 12 (I think 12, its been so long)mm ring terminal that bolts up to the starter solenoid as well. The way it works is you have 12v power always coming into the starter, but it is a "dead end" if you will. When the solenoid wire gets power it closes the circuit from the battery to the starter. The starter is grounded through the engine. If your engine is not grounded proporly the starter will not crank. Make sure you have the 12 or 14 (again i cant remember) mm wire that goes to the intake manifold from the battery tray hooked up to the engine otherwise she will most likely not crank. So wire it up properly, make sure you know its wiried correctly and try it. If still no dice be a balsy little shit and take the 10/12 ring terminal off the starter, plug the battery in and touch that lead to the other 10/12mm ring terminal (its a little wire that runs from the solenoid to the starter) the engine should crank, things should spark and you should get scared shitless. Or if you wanna be more professional (and safer) about it, leave the terminal connected and have someone hold the key on "start" while you bring a multimeter to the terminal. The 10/12mm ring terminal that comes from the battery should be seeing 12.5v (or whatever your battery is at). The solenoid trigger should also read 12.5v (however one of them will either NOT be reading that / or will not be connected - unless your starter is REALLY blown -this i doubt). Also trying to start a car for the first time from a jump start is pretty unlikely, I dont think you should assume that because it didnt start jumping it that there is anythign else wrong with the car. One step at a time dude, fix the starter and then if shes still no good check fuel pressure / injectors / spark / timing. Good luck. __________________ Sasha Anis Sequence-Garage

03-31-2005, 07:22 PM	#12
SequenceGarage Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Age: 39 Posts: 82 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	no the ecu / ignitor etc doesnt play a role in cranking the engine. Only the signal from the key, the power to the starter, the starter itself, and the starters ground. __________________ Sasha Anis Sequence-Garage

03-31-2005, 04:12 PM	#3
sepulchral BANNED Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Midlothian. VA Posts: 2,050 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	is your clutch sensor button broken, that happened to me and it was my clutch ssensor on the pedal, i just made a U shaped wire and pluged it into the plug after i took the sensor off. check your alternator and IGN fuses

03-31-2005, 04:26 PM	#4
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Fuses are all good, just checked. And clutch pedal sensor is also good. Still should want to come on when I pop clutch even if starter is bad. If timing is off, could this be reason to not coming on at all? or maybe ignitor being bad cause both of these issues. What does the ignitor do exactly BTW?

03-31-2005, 04:32 PM	#5
sepulchral BANNED Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Midlothian. VA Posts: 2,050 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	u ever check for error codes? you most likely have a bad or misplaced ground... is your battery good?

03-31-2005, 04:48 PM	#7
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Battery is new and positive that everything is hooked up right, grounds included. Haven't checked for codes yet. How do I go about doing that?

03-31-2005, 05:23 PM	#8
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 46 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	get out your test light and start with the starter. You can also run a 12V source straight into the starter soloniod. If the starter isn't getting power then trace it back to the ignition switch.

03-31-2005, 06:37 PM	#10
rps13sh Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Cerritos, CA Posts: 1,098 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	it cant be a ecu problem?

03-31-2005, 07:13 PM	#11
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Actually, I'm positive that the lower harness from the trans up to the alt, starter and oil plugs are all connected correctly as well. I haven't tried to jump start it either, it wouldn't be any different, it's a new battery(westco). I did try popping the clutch in 2nd while another car pushed me from behind. And actually had it in gear for a while as they slowly pushed me. This should have over-rided the need for the starter which is why I'm thinking it's something else other than wiring or grounding. This can't be an igniter or ecu gone bad? Anything besides the actual wiring? I guess I'll be checking ecu codes tonight to make sure.

03-31-2005, 08:18 PM	#13
rps13sh Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Cerritos, CA Posts: 1,098 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok i will take a seat and watch from the sidelines.

03-31-2005, 09:11 PM	#14
usctom Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: ny Posts: 145 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I had a similar problem. Check all the connetions on the lower harness and make sure they are plugged in all the way. Also the wire on the starter likes to come undone too so check that.

04-01-2005, 01:55 AM	#15
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	ok, not sure what I did, but now it cranks over and actually starts. It idles very irratically and the motor shakes alot then after about 5 - 10 seconds it shuts off. I played with timing a little and where it was set initially was the best position. I have spark on all four cylinders and I have fuel injection on all four. What does this sound like? I checked codes off the ecu and I was getting "55". Which should mean no malfunctions according to the sr20 faq thread. Any ideas why it doesn't want to stay on? Oh, when I step on the gas I get no response.

04-01-2005, 07:54 AM	#16
the head Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: in a dark room mastering the art of typing with one hand Posts: 2,164 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	that is what mine did when engine was flooded did you put new plugs in it? could also be a leak somewhere in the IC piping look for major leaks and if you cannot find any spray all of the couplers with soapy water and watch for bubbles also did you perform any modifications when the motor went in? or is it all stock? __________________ I never knew you could do that with an eggplant

04-01-2005, 10:04 AM	#17
drift freaq R.I.P. Aya, always love Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Los Feliz/Hollywood Posts: 18,564 Trader Rating: (215) Rides Gallery: drift freaq Feedback Score: 215 reviews	make sure you have an air filter on your maf , a simple thing of not having an air filter on your maf will cause the engine to idle roughly like its missing and sometimes not idle at all. __________________ "Having a lot of tracks on a song is like putting stickers on a car to get more horsepower" New Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uebV1OnbRsw Buy my mounts! http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/51531...ns-mounts.html http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/317539...e-mouts-6.html

04-01-2005, 10:50 AM	#18
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	I do have a few mods: intake with Z32 maf walbro fp FMIC HP + BOV DP and cheapy exhaust with like 2.5" piping That's it... New spark plugs, filter, oil Now, I know that Z32 needs reprogramming of ECU. But, I basically have the same set-up as the guy I bought it from. He was running the Z32 and sent it to me with the same ecu that he was supposedly using with it. But, let's say it is a stock ecu...Would the car start at all with the Z maf? If so, could this be the cause of what's happening?

04-01-2005, 10:55 AM	#19
the head Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: in a dark room mastering the art of typing with one hand Posts: 2,164 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	is the BOV atmosphered? what brand is it? I think you would get a MAF code from the ECU if you have the z32 hooked up and a stock ecu which means it should run fine below the 2500 limp home revlimiter also you may need to let it run for a bit my SR ran like shit for the first 4 or 5 min then it leveled out and all was well __________________ I never knew you could do that with an eggplant

04-01-2005, 11:38 AM	#20
90rps13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Covina, CA Age: 49 Posts: 411 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Did your car turn off after a few seconds or it kept running crappy until it leveled off? It's a greddy type-s btw, but should matter if it's atmosphered or not if I'm not boosting or anything, right now it's just not idling good, then it turns off after a few secs. Yeah, no ecu codes, just 55. Should be all good.

04-01-2005, 05:49 PM	#21
SequenceGarage Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Age: 39 Posts: 82 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Like I said before check your grounds, I am sure it is not a grounding only problem but it sounds like there may be a bad groudn somewehre. Do you have hte big ground from the battery tray connected to the intake manifold? The 2 10mm screws on the intake manifold tight and clean? Also the ground at the back of the motor on the exhaust side to firewall should be plugged in. Make sure your battery is grounded well too. It also sounds like you have a huge vaccum leak. Is your brake booster hose connected? Any vaccum lines left open on the throttle body? Any openings in the piping? If you have a GReddy intercooler make sure you capped the hotpipe leading up to the intercooler! Finally make sure there are no openings after the mafs before the turbo as it would suck in way too much air. If none of the above work I would suggest trying new spark plugs and different fuel __________________ Sasha Anis Sequence-Garage

04-04-2005, 08:53 AM	#22
the head Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: in a dark room mastering the art of typing with one hand Posts: 2,164 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	it does matter whether it is atmosphered or not because BOVs will open under vacuum my car took three starts on the fourth it still ran shitty but then leveled out search for leaks in your IC piping and recirc your bov __________________ I never knew you could do that with an eggplant