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Old 07-11-2005, 08:03 PM   #1
misnomer
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Replacement Radiator options

Odd, I couldn't find a thread comparing basic radiator replacements. Do you people not care? :P

Regardless, I've finally dun broke my radiator. Figure after 14 years and 180k miles, something has to break. Same problem as I've seen from several others, including my prior 240sx: plastic end tank cracked.

Unless somebody lays down a very VERY (very) convincing argument, I am not really interested in the $300+ aluminum multicore Koyos and Fluidynes. I know they're good. I also know the stock radiator cooled my car just fine for 14 years

So, the options I've seen:

-OEM looking/feeling cheapos from radiators.com and the like for 'round $100.

-OEM looking/feeling Koyo from ebay for round $100. The ones with the plastic end tanks (If anybody knows of a non-ebay source, please let me know, froogle has let me down on this one)

-All metal radiator made by CSF for round $100. I've read favorable reviews of their radiators on jeeps and the like. If anybody knows what CSF uses for a core material (copper/brass, aluminum, stainless steel), please let me know. Nice thing about these is most come with a replacement cap, saves me $15

-OEMish CSF for 'round $100 with copper core and plastic end tanks.

Checking if anybody has any experience with any of these (and a recommended reseller). I'm looking to buy right away. As much as I like driving to work in my truck-- I don't.
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Old 07-11-2005, 10:38 PM   #2
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Koyo OEM style replacement is fine, they're made nearly identical to the Calsonic units.
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Old 07-11-2005, 10:49 PM   #3
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just save up for a koyo one. trust me its really nice and well worth the money.
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:33 PM   #4
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u dont need 2 row Koyo if you are not gonna use it.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:08 AM   #5
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Copper koyo. You can usually get them for 175. Good bang for buck although I guess if you are absolutely sure the extra cooling capacity will never come in handy them get the OEM....
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:14 AM   #6
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On my S13 w/ full aluminium rad, with S14 dohc(using s13 CTS), I can't get the damn temp gauge to budge from the bottem. If I remember, it did work before the swap.
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Old 07-12-2005, 03:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misnomer
Regardless, I've finally dun broke my radiator. Figure after 14 years and 180k miles, something has to break. Same problem as I've seen from several others, including my prior 240sx: plastic end tank cracked.
Yep...common problem with 240SX radiators...plastic end tanks have a tendency to crack

Quote:
Originally Posted by misnomer
Unless somebody lays down a very VERY (very) convincing argument, I am not really interested in the $300+ aluminum multicore Koyos and Fluidynes. I know they're good. I also know the stock radiator cooled my car just fine for 14 years
Wow...14 years...you got it to last THAT long?? What did you do? Flush the radiator every year??

Quote:
Originally Posted by misnomer
So, the options I've seen:

-OEM looking/feeling cheapos from radiators.com and the like for 'round $100.

-OEM looking/feeling Koyo from ebay for round $100. The ones with the plastic end tanks (If anybody knows of a non-ebay source, please let me know, froogle has let me down on this one)

-All metal radiator made by CSF for round $100. I've read favorable reviews of their radiators on jeeps and the like. If anybody knows what CSF uses for a core material (copper/brass, aluminum, stainless steel), please let me know. Nice thing about these is most come with a replacement cap, saves me $15

-OEMish CSF for 'round $100 with copper core and plastic end tanks.

Checking if anybody has any experience with any of these (and a recommended reseller). I'm looking to buy right away. As much as I like driving to work in my truck-- I don't.
If you plan on keeping your 240, for what it's worth, stay with the all metal radiator. You're practically paying the same price for OEM'ish radiators with plastic end caps. The metal radiator is practically the same price but gives you little more metal surface to vent the radiant heat coming off the radiator. As long as you flush your radiator on a regular basis, plastic or metal..they will last you as long with proper routine maintenance. Just remember one thing though...if you go all metal radiator, don't lean your hands on the radiator after you've run the motor a while. You might end up burning yourself on the radiator. I've done it a few times with several of my buddies all metal radiators...

Anyhow...hope this helps...good luck deciding on the replacement...
ID
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Old 07-12-2005, 03:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEdude
On my S13 w/ full aluminium rad, with S14 dohc(using s13 CTS), I can't get the damn temp gauge to budge from the bottem. If I remember, it did work before the swap.
You plug the Engine Coolant Temperature sender unit back in after you swapped radiator? I know on 89-90 S13's the Engine Coolant Temperature sender units go between the lower radiator hose. If the ECTS unit was placed back between the lower radiator hose, then chances are it could be either a bad signal wire or a defective dash gage. I'd check the signal wire first....
Good luck!!
ID

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No jackin' of threads!!!...start your own!!...hahhaa..
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Old 07-12-2005, 03:56 AM   #9
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I used a CSF radiator on one of my rb20 cars (came with the chassis because the guy I bought it from was trying to figure out his ka's over-heating problem -blown HG- ). None the less, I was very impressed with the radiator. Infact probably one of the coldest running cars I have owned.

Here is the one I had, It was the all copper one. See how it looks, get it, it kicks ass.

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Old 07-12-2005, 07:17 AM   #10
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yea its sexy alright. the radiator looks kinda thin tho. we talking 2 different things. things WE think he needs. and thing HE thinks he needs
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Old 07-12-2005, 05:12 PM   #11
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So does anyone know if the Koyo Copper has plastic end tanks or metal ones?
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Old 07-12-2005, 07:07 PM   #12
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I haven't seen a Koyo copper radiator-- their cheaper aluminum one has plastic tanks (and I've only seen that on eBay). With more favorable opinions here, I'm thinking I'll stick with the CSF-- it doesn't really cost any more. May as well replace the hosen while I'm at it. Anything else I should do while I have the bastard taken apart?

idlafie: I didn't flush it every year, but certainly every other at least (with a back flush kit). While I'm sad my car is out of comission until I fix it, I am certainly not dissapointed. I had an '89 s13 that I sold to my sister, it's radiator had the same problem earlier this year (doing the math. . . 16 years). Cracked in the exact same spot, on the left side of the hump for the upper radiator hose.

EEdude: Definitely got some sort of problem-- does your heater still work? When my thermostat wore out, I couldn't get the car to warm up in the winter. This made for some frigid drives home. I'd even turn on the AC in the hopes that the extra heat of the compressor would warm up the engine a bit. Alas, equal and opposite. If the engine isn't getting warm, replace the thermostat. Otherwise, do what the other dood says. Or just ignore it. It's your damn car :P

Not to be an ass, but I trust what I think I need more than what you think I need I really just wanted some discussion on options to find the one that meets my needs. Plus, now there will be a "cheap radiator" thread that newbs (and oldies like me) can search

If only I had an RB to plug into it. . . That motor looks quite nice, aside from the red filter, it looks like it is factory installed. Bravo my friend, bravo.

Thanks for the help, gentlemen. Feel free to continue the discussion.
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