Turbo gasket keeps blowing!

[VisionRx7]

I just finished getting the new manifold on like a week ago, because the gasket between the turbo and mani was leaking. I just got a new manifold to make sure it wasn't warped or anything. I didn't want to replace it with a stock one, so I got one of the redesigned ssautochrome ones (ebay special). The fitment seemed really good. Three days after I had it together, I heard an exhaust leak starting. I knew what it was right away... the gasket between the manifold and turbo. Why is it blowing? Is my turbo warped, or could it just have been a crappy gasket? Should I try one of those stainless ones off of ebay like this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

Thanks for any help,
Jesse

[95zilvia]

I did the same thing, my gasket kept on blowing so I replaced the whole manifold setup, and then the gasket still kept blowing. I found out a good way to replace the turbo on an SR.
You could just unbolt the manifold from the block, and unbolt the turbo/coolant return/feed lines. The turbo will come out with everything as a whole. Tighten ALL the bolts, use lock washers, and when I say tighten, I mean, make it super tight. Some of the bolts are really hard to reach once the turbo is in the engine. Then put the turbo back in there, all bolted together already, and hookup the lines again.

[sr240mike]

Make sure that the flange is flat as well. My SSA header flange was warped in one corner about 1/8" before I even installed it.

[VisionRx7]

Alright, I'll take it back off again and make sure it isn't warped. I might have just not tightened it enough both times. Thanks for your help!

[speeddreamz]

try making sure they're even,sanding them. also make sure that they're clean because sometimes old gasket is left on the flange. Also make sure that the bolts/nuts are tightend down good (be careful not to break um) and then also make sure that metal piece that prevents the bolts from comingoff is on, try locktite too, the high temp red one.

[Vatche]

besides all that you have to put locking nuts on the 4 studs that go between the turbo and manifold or put some locking tabs...look into in in the search feature alot of people are having this problem....and also if you dont have one get a bracket between your downpipe and transmission....figure all that out and do it right the first time or youll end up doing it once a month or so

[goodjuan]

I found out i wasn't tightening my bolts very well because they kept backing up...

The exhaust bolts have this chalky surface so it's hard to torque them properly. I cheated and put some grease on all the threads...it was much easier to tighten them down wayy tight. When you run the car for the first time it burns it off...smells a lot. But the bolts haven't backed off since.

This helped me cuz im a pansy. :ghey:

[VisionRx7]

Where would I get that bracket that goes from the downpipe to the tranny? My car is missing it. That might be the problem. Also, since I put the new manifold on, the exhaust is riding on the frame. I used 2 hose clamps to pull the exhaust closer to the tranny for now. That bracket would be a much better choice than the hose clamps, haha.
I used lock nuts on everything, but it was still coming apart.

[Vatche]

the bracket u can buy from the dealer for 36 bucks. and the rubber peice is like 14 bucks....i got a bracket with my downpipe....that broke so i have to get another one

i dont know what to tell you about locking nuts backing off...get tabs only thing i havent tryed...and thats stock from factory i would think its the solution

[kazuo]

Originally Posted by sr20detman

the bracket u can buy from the dealer for 36 bucks. and the rubber peice is like 14 bucks....i got a bracket with my downpipe....that broke so i have to get another one

Go to the yard and stick it down your pants.

Cost: FREE, unless its a pick n pull where they charge $2 entry

i dont know what to tell you about locking nuts backing off...get tabs only thing i havent tryed...and thats stock from factory i would think its the solution

There's another thread about this, some two or three pages down.. basically the nuts back out of the studs from vibrations and such. the metal tabs are weak and dont work. Solutions:

- small tack weld on the nut to keep it from backing out
- weld the gap shut
- get crazy locking nuts from www.stage8.com or whatever

Have fun

[zeek]

use loctite on the threads before insertion into nuts.... them bitches arent going anywere after installation.

[Vatche]

ok....im talking from experience here....dont weld it, its not worth it....unless you really dont care....and red loctite melts from the heat , it dont work and yeah i forgot you can get a bracket off a stock 240 but where i live you cant find shit at junkyards, someone always gets there first

[VisionRx7]

I can see what happened now, one of the studs on the manifold pulled out. I'm gonna hit it with some lock tite and use some better lock nuts. My 240 has another problem now... the damn clutch went last night (and I was babying the hell out of it because of this exhaust leak)! It has just been one thing after another, lol! Anyone want a sr20 powered 240 for $5?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by VisionRx7

I can see what happened now, one of the studs on the manifold pulled out. I'm gonna hit it with some lock tite and use some better lock nuts. My 240 has another problem now... the damn clutch went last night (and I was babying the hell out of it because of this exhaust leak)! It has just been one thing after another, lol! Anyone want a sr20 powered 240 for $5?

I'll give you $4 cause it's an 89...

[Vatche]

shit ill sell mine for $3

[VisionRx7]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I'll give you $4 cause it's an 89...

Haha, I won't go any lower than $4.50.

Damn Sr20DetMan, If I had $3, I'd buy yours.

[kazuo]

locktite is worthless on that. I know people whov'e used it and the nuts back out anyway.

Trust me, weld it or get the crazy lock nuts.

[Vatche]

yeah you probably invested your last 3 bucks into your car....haha and yes red loctite doesnt do shit it melts and doesnt work....and which crazy lock nuts are you talking about kazuo....there are a ton and im trying to make a final decision on the best one

[VisionRx7]

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead... I've been working on some other 240s with srs in them pretty often latley... The only thing that I can get to work is tack welding like kazuo said. I went through 4 gaskets in a couple of months until I started tack welding both sides (other side of the stud in the manifold and the nut to the turbo flange). I also put a small tack on the turbo flange and the manifold flange. It makes it a pain when you want to take the turbo off from the manifold, but it keeps them together really well.

[Sil-Abc]

just weld it tight cuz i have those stage 8 nuts and they still backed out on me

[FRpilot]

does that bracket that connect the dp to tranny help? does it lower vibrations or something? my blitz dp came with one but i didnt put it on.

[g6civcx]

The SSAutochrome manifolds I saw were terrible. Every single one of them. The design is bad. The workmanship is bad. It looks like they just grinded down some pipe and welded them together.

If you're looking for a cheap alternative, I recommend staying with the stock cast iron manifold. If you really insist, try the Megan Racing manifold for $150. Those seem to be okay. The first-gen had some cracking problems, but they fixed that and the second-gen doesn't seem to crack as badly.

Or if you have the money, HKS for a grand

[dvdevo]

does anyone know if having a small length of flex piping on the downpipe would keep the stress from the exhaust a minimum?

[VisionRx7]

Just welding it and using the tranny brace seemed to help a lot... the tranny brace kept it from vibrating against the frame. You shold be able to find a flex pipe at pretty much any exhaust shop.

[infinitexsound]

fuck it if it keeps backin off get a small drill bit , drill a hole and safety wire the bitch.. to something with in the same area.. or just safety wire all of the nuts/bolt connecting..... we do that alot on our drain plugs... on our race engines... and tranny and diff nuts...

[battery1882]

I had the same problem and it did not go away until I took the manifold to machine shop and have the turbo flange machined perfectly flat. I would also recommend tacking the nut with a welder.

[Vatche]

so yeah i posted all sorts of comments on this thread like years or so ago...and i havent had a problem since. the bracket solves this bullshit. thats my input. if u dont have one get one. once u get this it should solve all problems. if it doesnt...then u can go from there

[VisionRx7]

yea, I was just following up saying that the welding and the bracket solved it... I had it that way for about a year without any problems before my engine blew... then I had to grind the welds off to get the manifold off, lol.