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Old 01-07-2006, 01:41 PM   #1
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Question UPDATE--S-14 (95) will not start--HELP PLEASE?!!!

Okay, I am kneeling at the altar of 240 wisdom--begging for mercy...
I have a 95 manual, standard model with ~ 182k miles--all adult driven, never raced or modified.
This past summer the car would occasionally not start on a hot NorCal afternoon. It seemed to be random, but always after the car was hot and it was hot outside. It progressed now to the point that the car won't start.
I have everything working inside and the battery, starter, alt, etc all tested fine. I've tried the interlock/ascd relay as mentioned on this site, I've tried the ignition relays and fusible link, I tried the little screw on the back of the ignition, etc--NADA! It is also quite difficult to push it started--I have a friend help with his truck in the morning or use the ramp at the parking garage I park in, to make it home. It runs just fine once it's going, but has to get going pretty fast to push started--it may be cooincendental...
I'm dying here people and it's my only way to work.

Any ideas on something I haven't tried?? (Before I take it to the stealership)
Thanks~ ~Pat

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Old 01-07-2006, 02:27 PM   #2
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Are you certain the starter is good? The starting system is very simple on our cars. Switch -> relay (manual only) -> solenoid.
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Old 01-07-2006, 02:55 PM   #3
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Is the bench test that Kragen/Autozone does reliable enough?
I'd hate to drop 250 for a starter I don't need--Is it possible to replace the solenoid and not the whole starter??
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Old 01-07-2006, 03:32 PM   #4
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Should be reliable enough. Though if you're dropping $250 for a starter someone is anally violating you. Remans cost no more than $130 new, rebuilders charge $60-80 all day long.

Get a test light and check for power (have someone hold the switch to start) right at the solenoid. If it's got 12volts, replace the starter. If not, start backtracking. Check the clutch interlock relay, then move inside to the switch, it's one of those three things.
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:28 PM   #5
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So I got under it and put the probe clip on the (+) side of the solenoid and touched the probe to the (-) before start and it lit up. It also lit up when the key was turned by my lovely assistant-- does that mean it's bad??
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:33 PM   #6
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can you be specific? i dont understand whats going on ... does engine not turn over at all? or crank but doesnt start?
you need to describe exactly what happens
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:33 PM   #7
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Yes. If the smaller feed to the starter solenoid shows power then the switch and relay are doing their job. Get a new starter.
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:34 PM   #8
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a ka starter at auto zone is $100 + core for a life time man where do u get $250 from


unless u buying it from nissan



easy starter test :

two 4 feet wires one from +ve terminal to triger switch on starter ( skinny wire clip )

other wife frome -ve battery terminal to starter body

make sure key is in the ON position and of course car not in gear and clutch padal depresed
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk90s13
a ka starter at auto zone is $100 + core for a life time man where do u get $250 from


unless u buying it from nissan



easy starter test :

two 4 feet wires one from +ve terminal to triger switch on starter ( skinny wire clip )

other wife frome -ve battery terminal to starter body

make sure key is in the ON position and of course car not in gear and clutch padal depresed

Not quite. Power is applied to the main solenoid lead (from the battery) and the coil side, ground to the case. Just applying power to the coil won't do anything.

Beautiful grammar skills by the way.
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R240NA
Not quite. Power is applied to the main solenoid lead (from the battery) and the coil side, ground to the case. Just applying power to the coil won't do anything.

Beautiful grammar skills by the way.


thanks for the nice comment.
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:45 PM   #11
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Thanks a bunch R240NA! You are a lifesaver again.

BTW, the 250 quote from from a Napa here in CA for a new unit--I called back and they 'mentioned' that they did have refurbs too, they just don't offer them first. I'll be going to Kragen for the $118 refurb.
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Old 01-07-2006, 11:19 PM   #12
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by the way, when you were push starting, were you starting in 2nd gear?
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift into a curb
by the way, when you were push starting, were you starting in 2nd gear?

I said I was from NorCal, not Arkansas. Thanks, though!
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Old 01-09-2006, 12:31 AM   #14
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Well I want to know cuz people try to start it in 1st all the time.. it's easier in 2nd.
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Old 01-09-2006, 02:07 PM   #15
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Sooooooo, R240NA:
I replaced the starter and nada...no different than before.
I also noticed, by accident, that the fuse labeled 'starter signal' (7.5amp)
is not heating up in off/acc/on positions of the key--it's dead.
What does that mean? Where do I go from here?
Thanks

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Old 01-09-2006, 02:25 PM   #16
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and the starter did fail on the bench test too...
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Old 01-09-2006, 09:09 PM   #17
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ttt
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Old 01-10-2006, 05:17 AM   #18
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the only thing i can think of is a bad distributor or maybe a weak battery connection. But then if it starts after a push-start it's probably not the distributor. Have it checked out anyway.
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Old 01-10-2006, 08:56 AM   #19
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the only thing i can think of is a bad distributor or maybe a weak battery connection. But then if it starts after a push-start it's probably not the distributor. Have it checked out anyway.
Distributor has absolutely nothing to do with the starting system.
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