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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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removing hubs at junkyard
whats your guys opinions on the best approach to removing the axle nut and the hubs at a junkyard using hand tools. im used to using my compressor, but unfortunately i cant roll it around at the junk yard, er i dont want to. so anyways, use a hammer? use a long ass breaker bar? also, those 19mm bolts on the back are a pain in the ass to take off when all 3 arms are unbolted, so do u guys bolt em back in and then take em off?
thx.
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#4 |
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OK, get a hub puller. Get the big axle bolt kit from Kragen or something.
To get to the 19s behind the hub, you gotta rotate the axles, I used the transmission to lock up the diff when I wanted it to stop spinning. (So the rear brake caliper didn't lock up.) It was pretty easy, considering I must have taken apart the assembly more than 5 times on ONE SIDE.
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#5 |
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lol ive taken mine apart hellaaaa times too -__- when i was goin back n forth between 4 and 5 lug hubs on my rear i took it apart at least 6 times and split an axle boot gettin pissed that the axle was rusted on the hub >_<. i bought the 36mm impact socket a while back.
do u think its easier to just take the 19's off by rotating the axle? or jus take the axle off the hub?
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#6 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Taking the axle nut off sucks donkey balls...
What I've done in the past for the axle nut, was to use one of the tire filling tanks as a portable air pressure source. They can take the same pressure as a compressor (~150 psi), hold enough air to impact wrench the axle nuts off, and don't weigh/aren't as bulky as even a "portable" compressor to lug around the junkyard. It also is handy for filling up your tires at the track/autocross/drift event. Using one of the coil hoses works best. Another thing is, I have swapped to Z32 rear uprights and coilovers (fork style), so I can't really get to the bottom rear 19mm bolts on each side without taking the shock off. Just FYI. |
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#8 |
Post Whore!
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Fronts are easy as pie. Just bring a hammer, some pliers to remove the cotter pin, a thin flat head to bang out the little cover over the hub nut, then use a 30mm nut on a regular socket wrench with a big breaker bar (I use a 3 foot pole from home depot). Not to mention you need to remove the brakes to take out the hub. You don't need a hub puller.
For the rears, theyre definetly a lot trickier. Just unbolt the bolts holding the hub on from BEHIND the rear spindle. You'll need a big ass breaker bar. You don't need a hub puller (Scott), I just put my spare wheel on the studs... tightened it down, and kicked the tire and BAM... hub falls out. Forgot to mention you need to unbolt the 36mm axel nut for the rears. Sparknotes: Bring Hammer Flat head 14mm, 17mm (to remove brakes) 19mm socket socket wrench 36mm socket 30mm socket (32mm for s14's) Big ass breaker bar Some elbow grease Red Bull |
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#9 |
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If you wedge a pry bar into the axle flange where it meets the output shaft you can brace it against a pair of the bolts and the subframe. After that the axle nut comes right off. That's the best way since most times the calipers are already gone and you can't lock the brakes.
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#10 |
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well i went this mornin at 8am and my solution was to bring a broly friend of mine. his brute strength took it off no problem. crazy big people.
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#11 |
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oh and i just took the whole spindle home since i couldnt get the 27mm bolt off the z32 rears. i wanted the ebrake assy and the 5lug. horray for half off day at the junkyards. got a full z32 brake setup with master cylinder for 150.
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#12 | |
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Quote:
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#13 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
I always have trouble getting to the back 19mm bolts even spinning the axle shaft, so I always bring a hub puller if the hub is all I want. |
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#15 | |
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Quote:
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