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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Addict
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Damn KA Bogging
i have a mad bogging issue. i bought a 93 240 hatch that sat for a year before i bought it. i replaced plugs, hotwires, fuel filter, cat, o2 sen, maf, air filter by KnN w/ CAI, removed egr, ran 3 bottles of sea foam, rotor button, whole distributer assembly, and i think thats it. some times it dies if cold and i just cranked it. it will idle high like 1000-1200 until fully warmed up. its so embarrassing b/c sometimes when i go after a stop in 1st gear it will straight up bog out like im dumping clutch like a newb, itl do it between 2-2700rpm. i cant floor it at all in neutral or it will totally bog and start diieng. i cant figure this shit out. please please let me know what you think its gonna make me insane and end up hating KA's.
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#6 |
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its 8pm here and dark. im shure its not throwing codes because the engine light works and has never came on. I need to hit the sack kinda early because Im gonna go burn up some tires at the track tomarrow. thanks though i will def let you know tomarrow.
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#9 |
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thats what i thought but a fellow 240 buddy and i checked everything thing out and came up with nada. keep it coming though cuz im ready to fix this agrivating damn problem.
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#11 |
Zilvia Addict
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Well I too am in the same boat just bought a 90 coupe SE model that the previous owner parked cause of the same issue....I keep being referred by friends back to airflow and fuel flow...I changed fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack, distributor, MAF, TPS, O2 sensor, exhaust keep in mind the parts came off of a perfectly good running KA. Picture below....I hope we can both find a solution???
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#12 |
Post Whore!
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ROFL.
A mechanic could probably help you if you are that inconvinced. It sounds like you are getting air in after the maf. Intake Mani gaskets, and piping between maf and T/B. What is the Vacum @ Idle?
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#13 |
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after it warms up it idles perfect about 770. Sometimes it is kinda fine. like it will bog a little bit when floored while driving but other times it like im dumping the clutch and the car acts retarded and bogs the fuck out. i wouldnt think i would have vac leak cuz after warm idle is perfect. I heard if intake mani gasket is bad you can hear a suction very clearly, like it will make a loud noice. I checked all vac lines 2/3 times and came up with nothing.
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#15 |
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Heat = expansion.
Effects on gasket? If you want help, you have to perform the proper tests. Put a vacuum gauge on the vehicle. If you dont even own a vac gauge, you should probably take your car to a mechanic.
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#16 |
LAID OUT
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Location: LAS VEGAS
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Just because the check engine light isn't lit up doesn't mean there aren't codes stored on the ECU. When I had a code 34 for bad KS or KS wiring (killed performance from 3000+) there was no light. I have a short in my ect wiring harness now, and there is no light. Also I had a code for the o2 sensor, and again no light. It takes all of 5 minutes to pull the codes, and you won't even get greasy.
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#17 |
Nissanaholic!
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Yes code 34 will casue the bogging and huge power loss and shitty gas milage and will not illuminate a check engine light alone......i'll give you some good advice to help you diagnois a problem with the knock sensor, first you need a digital volt meter and ground one probe and back probe the other to the knock sensor pin in back of the ecu and with the key on engine off you should recieve 2.5 volts if you have a short to ground it will be closer to 0 volts and here the big headache savings info if you do have a shirt to ground it most likely gonna be found in the black plastic casing just above the fuel rail closly look for a thicker gauge black wire with a very slight bulge in it and thats gonna be your short to ground, this is a shielded wire by the way so when you repair it make sure to separate the shielding from teh actually signal wire when solding it back together.
I have personally fixed 5 S13 KA24DE with this problem with the same short to ground and the same exact location +/- 5 inches. |
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#20 |
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I turned the ecu around and with ign in on position I turned it clockwise for 2 sec then read the led and it was showing 12. I think that is MAF. but I've replaced the MAF and the Maf wire is fine. WTF????:hammer:
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#21 |
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Unhook the battery for a while to erase the code from your ECU. Then go for a quick drive and check them again. If you're still getting codes, something is still wrong.
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#24 |
Leaky Injector
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Man i'm having the exact same problem. It bogs and jerks all out of the blue. Especially when i'm driving around normal then I come to the light, when I go to take off the car bogs and jerks a lot with no power and it basically almost shuts off. Even when I floor it when it's doing this nothing happens. I have to stop for a sec then go, then the car goes back to kinda normal. In genral though the car seems really dead like i'm loosing power somewhere or something. Can someone help us out cause this problem is really getting annoying. I'm going to check for codes and also check the knock sensor like the dude was saying.
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#25 | |
Leaky Injector
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#26 |
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that shit is no joke. it is damn embarrassing. after driving for a while and hit a light. you start going bog kick bog kick, flooring it almost kills it then people are going around you and the only thing you can do is take foot off gas and press clutch and rev it up to like 2500 and slowly let off it.
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#29 |
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The code it did throw was MAF. but its new. the plug and wire is fine. filter new everything. the only thing I noticed about the maf is the plug has 3 connectors and the maf has 4. but my friends was same. but if no one minds can they please check their dohc ka maf and plug. and post what it looks like.
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