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Old 03-16-2007, 01:40 PM   #1
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Damn KA Bogging

i have a mad bogging issue. i bought a 93 240 hatch that sat for a year before i bought it. i replaced plugs, hotwires, fuel filter, cat, o2 sen, maf, air filter by KnN w/ CAI, removed egr, ran 3 bottles of sea foam, rotor button, whole distributer assembly, and i think thats it. some times it dies if cold and i just cranked it. it will idle high like 1000-1200 until fully warmed up. its so embarrassing b/c sometimes when i go after a stop in 1st gear it will straight up bog out like im dumping clutch like a newb, itl do it between 2-2700rpm. i cant floor it at all in neutral or it will totally bog and start diieng. i cant figure this shit out. please please let me know what you think its gonna make me insane and end up hating KA's.
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Old 03-16-2007, 01:55 PM   #2
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maybe your iacv valve is clogged.
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Old 03-16-2007, 01:55 PM   #3
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What does the ECU think the problem is? If you ask nicely it might tell you.
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Old 03-16-2007, 05:14 PM   #4
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funny guy thanks for input.
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Old 03-16-2007, 05:49 PM   #5
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So have you pulled the codes from the ECU yet? Might point you the right direction and only take a couple minutes of your time. GL
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:04 PM   #6
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its 8pm here and dark. im shure its not throwing codes because the engine light works and has never came on. I need to hit the sack kinda early because Im gonna go burn up some tires at the track tomarrow. thanks though i will def let you know tomarrow.
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:07 PM   #7
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damn i killed a word or 2
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:34 PM   #8
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Vac Leak
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:54 PM   #9
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thats what i thought but a fellow 240 buddy and i checked everything thing out and came up with nada. keep it coming though cuz im ready to fix this agrivating damn problem.
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:22 PM   #10
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i had a same prob but it was the maf mine is kinda gets lose when i hit a good bumb i just plug it back in and it acts normal
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:57 PM   #11
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Well I too am in the same boat just bought a 90 coupe SE model that the previous owner parked cause of the same issue....I keep being referred by friends back to airflow and fuel flow...I changed fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack, distributor, MAF, TPS, O2 sensor, exhaust keep in mind the parts came off of a perfectly good running KA. Picture below....I hope we can both find a solution???

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Old 03-16-2007, 11:16 PM   #12
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ROFL.

A mechanic could probably help you if you are that inconvinced.

It sounds like you are getting air in after the maf. Intake Mani gaskets, and piping between maf and T/B. What is the Vacum @ Idle?
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Old 03-17-2007, 04:35 AM   #13
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after it warms up it idles perfect about 770. Sometimes it is kinda fine. like it will bog a little bit when floored while driving but other times it like im dumping the clutch and the car acts retarded and bogs the fuck out. i wouldnt think i would have vac leak cuz after warm idle is perfect. I heard if intake mani gasket is bad you can hear a suction very clearly, like it will make a loud noice. I checked all vac lines 2/3 times and came up with nothing.
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Old 03-17-2007, 05:47 AM   #14
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check coolant temp sensor along with the harness plug for it... usually a culprit of KA's acting retarded
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:14 AM   #15
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Heat = expansion.

Effects on gasket? If you want help, you have to perform the proper tests. Put a vacuum gauge on the vehicle. If you dont even own a vac gauge, you should probably take your car to a mechanic.
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Old 03-17-2007, 05:52 PM   #16
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Just because the check engine light isn't lit up doesn't mean there aren't codes stored on the ECU. When I had a code 34 for bad KS or KS wiring (killed performance from 3000+) there was no light. I have a short in my ect wiring harness now, and there is no light. Also I had a code for the o2 sensor, and again no light. It takes all of 5 minutes to pull the codes, and you won't even get greasy.
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Old 03-17-2007, 06:12 PM   #17
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Yes code 34 will casue the bogging and huge power loss and shitty gas milage and will not illuminate a check engine light alone......i'll give you some good advice to help you diagnois a problem with the knock sensor, first you need a digital volt meter and ground one probe and back probe the other to the knock sensor pin in back of the ecu and with the key on engine off you should recieve 2.5 volts if you have a short to ground it will be closer to 0 volts and here the big headache savings info if you do have a shirt to ground it most likely gonna be found in the black plastic casing just above the fuel rail closly look for a thicker gauge black wire with a very slight bulge in it and thats gonna be your short to ground, this is a shielded wire by the way so when you repair it make sure to separate the shielding from teh actually signal wire when solding it back together.

I have personally fixed 5 S13 KA24DE with this problem with the same short to ground and the same exact location +/- 5 inches.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:11 PM   #18
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hey thanks alot man i just back from myrtle beach sc for a drifting comp and i will def checks everything you said said and post up how it went.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:12 PM   #19
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i may be just a little tired. grammar is a bit shot.
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:06 PM   #20
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I turned the ecu around and with ign in on position I turned it clockwise for 2 sec then read the led and it was showing 12. I think that is MAF. but I've replaced the MAF and the Maf wire is fine. WTF????:hammer:
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:13 PM   #21
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Unhook the battery for a while to erase the code from your ECU. Then go for a quick drive and check them again. If you're still getting codes, something is still wrong.
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:27 PM   #22
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thanks will do right now.
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:28 PM   #23
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damn forgot to post that. but i unplugged battery for like 5-10 minutes and still nothing. The bitch still bogs the fuck out. what next??
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:10 PM   #24
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Man i'm having the exact same problem. It bogs and jerks all out of the blue. Especially when i'm driving around normal then I come to the light, when I go to take off the car bogs and jerks a lot with no power and it basically almost shuts off. Even when I floor it when it's doing this nothing happens. I have to stop for a sec then go, then the car goes back to kinda normal. In genral though the car seems really dead like i'm loosing power somewhere or something. Can someone help us out cause this problem is really getting annoying. I'm going to check for codes and also check the knock sensor like the dude was saying.
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNISA JECS
Yes code 34 will casue the bogging and huge power loss and shitty gas milage and will not illuminate a check engine light alone......i'll give you some good advice to help you diagnois a problem with the knock sensor, first you need a digital volt meter and ground one probe and back probe the other to the knock sensor pin in back of the ecu and with the key on engine off you should recieve 2.5 volts if you have a short to ground it will be closer to 0 volts and here the big headache savings info if you do have a shirt to ground it most likely gonna be found in the black plastic casing just above the fuel rail closly look for a thicker gauge black wire with a very slight bulge in it and thats gonna be your short to ground, this is a shielded wire by the way so when you repair it make sure to separate the shielding from teh actually signal wire when solding it back together.

I have personally fixed 5 S13 KA24DE with this problem with the same short to ground and the same exact location +/- 5 inches.
Could you show some pictures please just so it's totally clear. Thanks
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:01 PM   #26
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that shit is no joke. it is damn embarrassing. after driving for a while and hit a light. you start going bog kick bog kick, flooring it almost kills it then people are going around you and the only thing you can do is take foot off gas and press clutch and rev it up to like 2500 and slowly let off it.
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:19 PM   #27
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have u checked for codes again yet?
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:00 PM   #28
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i just did it a few hours ago.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:04 PM   #29
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The code it did throw was MAF. but its new. the plug and wire is fine. filter new everything. the only thing I noticed about the maf is the plug has 3 connectors and the maf has 4. but my friends was same. but if no one minds can they please check their dohc ka maf and plug. and post what it looks like.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:16 PM   #30
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what number is labeled on your maf? did u truly get a NEW maf or is it new to you?
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