Damn KA Bogging

[twofortyrida1388]

I read your code 34 thread and got some ideas but my bogs(only WOT) idle to 4k(in neutral) then really really screams and opens up after 4k.

[Tech12]

have you checked your tps yet?

[twofortyrida1388]

About that injector site. How long would that take for them to do what they do and then me getting them back. Basically roughly the time from which I send them out to when I get them back.

[twofortyrida1388]

I dont have a multi meter. ECU didnt show it either.

[MELLO*SOS]

They sell cheap Digital Multimeters, go look at Radio Shack or even Home Depot. They are an invaluable tool for diagnosing problems and testing circuits, you'll wonder how you got by without it (hmm it's that way with all tools though)

They are fast, the biggest wait is the shipping time. But figure a week or so with round trip shipping. Just call them or send them an email or PM...

[twofortyrida1388]

Well then it said 55(OK), I just checked it again and got 11 CPS. I checked all grounds and their good. Just in case Ill check it again when its light. Thank you sir, I will do that tomarrow and tell you if it does it.

[twofortyrida1388]

I grounded the MAF same spot and made sure no paint or corrosion blocked it and it is still acting retarded. Step 1 buy multi meter, Step 2 test TPS, Step 3 test CTS, Step 4 new MAF, Step 5 part out KA and buy newer one. Oh before step 5 I'll send injectors out by that recommended site.

[twofortyrida1388]

Dont know if this matters but before oil pan and valve cover gaskets went in they sprayed oil all over tps and basically everthing thing else in front area of hood and throttle body down is covered with gunk just straight oil and dirt.

[ripnbst]

Well then thats probably a good place to start. I am having this same problem, I asked around locally and someone asked me if my timing has been messed with. I just recently acquired the car so I dont know if the timing is off. I am gonna check it next week and probably take it to autozone this week and have the codes pulled from the ECU. I will let you guys know what the codes are when I get time to take it. Yes this is a really long thread which I just every word of and all the recommendations help, all the useless bitching about thread length is just that, useless bitching.

In all my reading I have compiled a list of culprits here it is:
1. Injectors
2. MAF
3. Timing
4. MAF WIRING
5. Knock sensor
6. Fuel Filter
7. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor?)
8. Air entering after the MAF
9. IAVC
10. EGR

Did I miss anything?

[wickeds13]

Is there white smoke coming out of your exhaust? If it is it may be a blown head gasket or valve seals. If not it might be a blown valve. Cause I'm having the same problem too.

[twofortyrida1388]

Mine doesnt even burn oil(no smoke). You forgot the KA bog curse lol. A shit load of people seem to have it and they are all unique. I guess I will rip TB out and clean it too. If this shit aint right by the time all this stuff is checked and/or replaced a newer s14 setup is going in or a low mile s13. Today my alternator belt shredded when I dropped it into second at 45 keeping this car from passing me on my way home from work. When I got home I wasnt certain and when I revved it it would pretty much die. Like it didnt come off but it shredded in half. About a pencil size thread left got me home. Wire was thrown all over.

[twofortyrida1388]

Yeah that is what it is. The exhaust gas gets reused with intake air. http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm

[ripnbst]

Not sure, but twoforty...I am pretty sure he was kidding. I am running my car to autozone to run the ECU codes in an hour and see what comes up and I am also gonna ask if they can use their timing gun to check my timing and see what that looks like. My idle after it warms up is walkin all over the place which is why the timing is suspect to me. If it looks good then I can cross it off the list of possible culprits.

[MELLO*SOS]

Originally Posted by ripnbst

Not sure, but twoforty...I am pretty sure he was kidding. I am running my car to autozone to run the ECU codes in an hour and see what comes up and I am also gonna ask if they can use their timing gun to check my timing and see what that looks like. My idle after it warms up is walkin all over the place which is why the timing is suspect to me. If it looks good then I can cross it off the list of possible culprits.

Have you checked your ECT sensor?

Also be wary of the codes that the Autozone scanner will give you. The numerical code should be right, but the text description of the problem may not be. Get the #s and look them up yourself to be sure.

[twofortyrida1388]

Well I had to make sure anyway. You never know with some people.

[drewc87]

what about a fuel pump? have you checked to see if your getting fuel pressure?

[twofortyrida1388]

I actually was thinking maybe fuel pump for the fact that if it is ran dry it can damage the pump because the fuel acts also as a coolant for the pump.

[MELLO*SOS]

Yup. I noticed a nice power improvement going from my stock pump to the Walbro, made me think that maybe after 14 years the stock pump was a little tired... If you pick up a Walbro you should also get a Nismo FPR. This is because the Walbro has a tendency to overrun the stock FPR and cause you to run too rich. Even if the pump turns out to not be the problem at least it's upgraded and you're ready for any swap or KA-T setup.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks man. Walbro's are awesome there on ebay for like 100 bucs. I'll check to see how much the Nismo FPR will cost. Since I work at Advance I'm thinking of just getting a brand new maf and tps. Old tps is covered with oil and dirt.

[MELLO*SOS]

There is a guy/company on here that sells the Walbros for like 90 something shipped. And the Nismo FPR is like $80 to $100ish, check performancenissan.com I think thats where I got mine from. GL

[ripnbst]

Took my ride to autozone and it ran 5-5, meaning A-OK. So I dont know wtf I am gonna do. What would cause this problem that wouldnt show up on the ECU? I am thinking if it was MAF related it woulda tripped the ECU. I am gonna check the timing and see what thats like. I am also thinking it might be air entering after the MAF. My buddy I showed my car to said that his dads car was acting this same way and it ended up being an intake mani. gasket. Is there any way to check if they are leaky? I am thinking it has got be air coming after the MAF aka the gaskets or its the timing. It runs pretty rich and it has no balls top-end so I think it might not be getting the air it needs. Any thoughts?

[MELLO*SOS]

Yes you need to pressure test the intake system. Look at this post I just wrote on another site... It's for a turbo motor but the concept and procedure is identical for NA engine...

Originally Posted by Me on the "other board"

You don't really need to seal off the end by the TB, if you want to test the entire system for leaks. If you wanted to test a specific component you could do like you say and put a cap on the "other end" of the cold pipe. All you really need is a pressure test adapter, either build your own or buy one:











Then clamp it to the MAF or compressor inlet or hotpipe inlet with a silicone coupler. Set your tank (or inline) regulator to your test pressure (5-20psi) and pressurize the system. You can listen for leaks and/or spray suspected leaks with soapy water.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks a lot mello88. With your ongoing help I'm sure we will fix this damn annoyance.

[ladiesman8527]

i made one of them things when i had a bad vacuum leak that i couldnt find. it was a really big help.

[twofortyrida1388]

I'm gonna hit up Home Depo and make one. I really hope its tps or something else other than intake mani.

[twofortyrida1388]

I'm gonna make that tip to test any leakage this weekend and tell you what happens.

[twofortyrida1388]

I compression tested the intake and it turns out my fpr actuator had a busted hose. But I put a new hose on and that was a bitch. It is right on the fire wall basically. But when I replaced it my car still bogged but ran much stronger 1st-4th. It didn't struggle as much to get to a hundred. I retested it and there is still a hissing coming from behind intake mani and I can't ell from where. The hose is fine. It sounds like its coming from the actuator but its not cracked or anything it seems fine. Does anyone know what it could be back there leaking. I now know its a vacuum issue and not anything else.

[ladiesman8527]

what about the line from the brake booster to the intake mani? ive had troubles with those leaking before. i recommend changing that line to a one piece line. its a two piece line from the factory and that just makes more potential places to leak.

[Taba13]

the fatter of the black wire community in the lastic sheild above the fuel rail!

sneaky little thing it is, mine too had this ever so slight bump in it, so i thought about it, roamed around here for a few minutes and decided to check this bump out, i pulled apart the black shielding right in area of that bump, what i noticed was seriously something for all to consider.

the white wire inside the wrapped silver shielding wire was cracked just enough for 1 measly little strand of that shield to touch the cracked part of the white wire, that crack exposed the internal copper inside the white shield, therefore making a short.

unfortunately im just looking as to why my KA isnt as perky as i have tuned it to be, yeah it moves but not how i expect.

SO point is: check that wire, it is always better to be absolutely positive, if it means cutting it in 2 just to solder it back together so be it, at least it was checked intensively.

thanks to all who actually suggested that wire!

[twofortyrida1388]

I have arlready checked the wire. My problem is a vacuum leak. The car is getting worse its like my oil leaks a shitload more and the car is driving shitty. Its overheating by my standards. The gauge doesn't say it in dash but I can def tell. Its getting soo hot my thin Al. cai is sizzling to the touch even after 10 or so minutes of the car sitting off with the electric fan blowing.