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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 06-14-2005, 01:30 PM   #1
crioten
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synthetic vs. the good stuff - oil & turbos

well, what are the pros and cons regarding different motor oil and turbos. synthetic compared to natural oil

im thinking about running synthetic oil from here on out on my kat project, and i was wondering if that would protect the turbo as well (t25)

is there any benifit in regards to coking oil in a turbo, better longevity that kinda stuff...

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Old 06-14-2005, 03:13 PM   #2
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coking, if im not mistaken thats synomomous for bad dranage and pooling, which = bad.

synthetics, double edged sword, better lubricity(different from viscocity) however, synthetics will normally degrade at a lower temp then natural oils of same quality.

however, molecularly synthetic is better on metals. with higher lubricity from synthetic oil compared to natual oils at same viscosity lets u run thinner weight oil, hence better oil priming and flow/dranage

cheap synthetics < good naturals, cheap crap synthetics can cause leaks on seals

breakin in of turbos should be done with natural oil. break-in of turbo is super important, not just for longevity, most needle bearing chra's will spool up a tad earlier once breakin is complete. ball bearing chra's in my experience dont get that way, or maybe they just take that much longer to break in><

remember racing oil != street oil, they are 2 different animals.
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Old 06-14-2005, 03:19 PM   #3
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I use synthetic in my supra, it works great for 500rwhp. Couple things I don't like about synthetic though:

1. It's expensive as s$#t

2. Likes to leak out of seals easier than regular oil (in my experience).

3. It's expensive as s#$%#$%#$%$#%.

Only reason I use it in supra is because of the power, synthetics have always ran better with the higher HP in her.

I usually run a synthetic blend or normal oil in my 240sx with sr20det. It has much lower power and and synthetic doesn't seem to have much of a difference on it.

Really you could go either way. Just get the right viscosity, I usually run 10w30, maybe a tad thicker. If your KA has high miles and not 100%, I'd probably just run blend or normal oil. GL

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Old 06-14-2005, 04:30 PM   #4
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I an synthetic in my DSM and loved it. I plan on running it in SR20DET when it arrives.
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:29 PM   #5
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synthetic at a minimum, redline if you can.
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:47 PM   #6
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If you want to baby your car, do a search for BND oil. They will give you a personal blend for your beloved. BND had a small mention Grass Root Motorsports mag this month. Check them and give them a try
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:50 PM   #7
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I don't have a turbo yet, still building my spare motor. Bought my car with 156k miles and now it has 223k on it. Since I got it I've run nothing but Mobil 1 full synthetic. Haven't had any motor problems what-so-ever (knock on wood). I'll never run anything else (except for break-ins).

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Old 06-14-2005, 07:53 PM   #8
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I Run Mobil-1 15w-50 usually. But When I can afford it, which has only been 2 times I like to run HKS Turbo Racing Oil 15w-50 but it is 80 bucks per change for that shit...you cant go wrong with Mobil-1. I Change every 5,000 klms...
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Old 06-14-2005, 08:08 PM   #9
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O'reilly sells the Mobile 1 oil in 4 quart bottles for $8.99 each, I got 4 of them today and 4 new filters from nissan, best price I have found to date, even better than Costco and Sam's club
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Old 06-14-2005, 08:11 PM   #10
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Get Motul synthetic oils. Really the best thing i could've done to my engine.
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Old 06-14-2005, 08:20 PM   #11
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AMSOIL, good stuff as well. But it's $$$
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:33 PM   #12
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O'reilly sells the Mobile 1 oil in 4 quart bottles for $8.99 each, I got 4 of them today and 4 new filters from nissan, best price I have found to date, even better than Costco and Sam's club
damnit...I dont think there's any O'reily's on the west coast.
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Old 06-16-2005, 07:16 AM   #13
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coking, if im not mistaken thats synomomous for bad dranage and pooling, which = bad
Coking is actually when oil gets so hot the parts solidify and leave deposits of sludgy gross-ness. That's why people use turbo timers, so that the oil doesn't coke. Actually that is one of the main things that screws turbos.
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Old 06-16-2005, 08:23 AM   #14
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Just use synthetic, dont understand why you wouldnt. you wont be able to feel any difference when u switch between syn and mineral but your engine will be happier.
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:19 PM   #15
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Old 06-16-2005, 03:56 PM   #16
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Coking is actually when oil gets so hot the parts solidify and leave deposits of sludgy gross-ness. That's why people use turbo timers, so that the oil doesn't coke. Actually that is one of the main things that screws turbos.

i see ur point and what i meant in lame..ass terms was that coking is a byproduct of bad drainage, coking is not a big issue unless u have bad drainage, bad oil control ,or dont change oil. the biggest killer of turbos maybe changing oil, however the biggest problem for customizers is oil control, the placement of a turbo has direct correlation to drainage.

main use of turbo timers is not just for cool down, it is to allow oil to drain out of the turbo. coking is normally because oil has pooled in the hot centersection, then vaporizing to a certain degree leaving carbon deposits.
(people run timers for about a minute, check turbo temps at 15 secs vs 1min, its only slightly different, at least on my IRPyrometer)

what happens is u just boosted like its coo, hot dirty oil is in ur turbo, if u shut off immediatley that oil didnt have a chance to evacuate/flush(all turbos have some amount of pooling no matter what) this leaves deposits. cool down all though important, is easily attained within 10-15 secs after idle,(u arnet gonna get that cold while motor is still running), getting dirty oil out of centersection however inmho is most important part.
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:22 PM   #17
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Ummm, if the motor is running, you oil isn't just gonna drain and be gone from the turbo. It's like he said, turbo timers allow the oil to cool down. If you're boosting your car, the oil is gonna get hotter than if the car is just idling. So you let it idle for a while (most people go far more than just 1 minute). The turbo spins at a very very high rpm (memory fails me of how high), and it also gets VERY hot. If you let the car cool down for a little bit, the oil cools down also and doesn't solidify in the turbo/lines.

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Old 06-18-2008, 05:45 PM   #18
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This is my first time with my 97 SR20det. I need to change the oil.
But i don't know, what oil filter i look for at the auto parts store? Can you guys help me out on this.
Also what spark plugs do i ask for?
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:40 PM   #19
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royal purple or motul ftmfw. i won't run mobil b/c its no longer made from a synthetic base, and cuz i can't support that company from an ethical standpoint either.
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:47 PM   #20
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This is my first time with my 97 SR20det. I need to change the oil.
But i don't know, what oil filter i look for at the auto parts store? Can you guys help me out on this.
Also what spark plugs do i ask for?
Wow, you picked a thread about oil from 2005 to ask these random if not common questions?
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