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Old 05-01-2005, 01:34 PM   #1
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toe question

I know that the toe arms on the rear of a s13 are adjustable, but at what amount of droppage do you surpass the stock adjustablity and have to buy new toe arms?
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Old 05-01-2005, 02:09 PM   #2
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If your car is dropped to a point where it looks good, then you have gone beyond the stock bolts adj possibilitys.

Anything lowered more than 1.5 inches or so


remember.

0 toe in the rear
1/4'' toe out in the front
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Old 05-01-2005, 02:11 PM   #3
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toe in in rear
more stability and grip

but those settings are all preference haha

not one of those threads

what blue 808 said
also makes the car more solid feel. less slop and changing.and you get that PRECISE adjustablity which can be hard to get at times w/ eccentric bolts.
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:04 PM   #4
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I've had my S14 down to 2" and still had 0 toe on stock rods.
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:37 PM   #5
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Toe and camber are not really adjustable seperately with stock parts. They are.. but read on...

What I mean is, you can drop it a bunch and still get your toe settings right as long as you're OK with running tons of camber. And vice-versa, you can only get your camber back to about 0 if you are willing to run major toe-out. There is of course a limit where you wont get factory settings back no matter what you do.. but you'd have to be VERY low.

Adjustable toe and upper control arms are always a good bet though. Then you don't have to worry.
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:13 PM   #6
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Hmm, that makes me think if, up to a limit, both of toe and camber are inverses of each other, would it be possible to keep good toe and run massive camber. Then get rucas to fix that camber? Or will this not work?
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:39 PM   #7
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Get RUCA's to fix the Camber. Toe should be fine after that(fixable with stock rods).
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:12 PM   #8
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1.5 inch drop and I could not get the toe I wanted with the Camber I wanted using stock pieces. I wanted about 1.5 camber and zero toe. This is on a S13
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blu808
If your car is dropped to a point where it looks good, then you have gone beyond the stock bolts adj possibilitys.

Anything lowered more than 1.5 inches or so
I have fully lowered N1 PRO's tucking a little bit of tire in the rear and when my friend and I did my alignment with the laser equipment at Just Tires, we were able to get it to 0 toe with the stock arms and eccentric bolts. I always thought that it was impossible to zero it out but it did. It is the reason why I have put off buying rear toe arms for so long. This car has never been wrecked or seen any curbs either.
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Old 05-02-2005, 02:26 PM   #10
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flybert - were those eccentric bolts on the toes arms or the rucas?

It appears that toe can be corrected with the stock equipment, as long as you have rucas. That brings up a question then - why replace the stock toe arms then?
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Old 05-02-2005, 02:31 PM   #11
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Because they get worn out.
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Old 05-02-2005, 02:46 PM   #12
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Ride height doesnt have anything to do with it directly. When your camber goes negative it will toe in. If you have alot of negative camber you may not be able to get your toe to zero with stock toe arms.
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Old 05-02-2005, 03:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neverdone
flybert - were those eccentric bolts on the toes arms or the rucas?

It appears that toe can be corrected with the stock equipment, as long as you have rucas. That brings up a question then - why replace the stock toe arms then?
I zeroed out the toe using the eccentric bolts on the toe arms of course.

As for my camber settings, I run -2.4 degrees of camber in the rear with SPL RUCAs. I'd love to have toe arms in the rear for the helm joints and for the ease of adjustability. Eventually I plan on replacing every damn rubber bushing arm on my car with that of one that has helm joints.
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Old 05-02-2005, 07:46 PM   #14
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WongFeiHung you are saying then when camber is bad toe is bad, and vise versa

Chernobyl you are saying that they are inverses of each

which is it?

Also, if you can in fact get the camber you want, and use the stock or eccentricbolts to adjsut toe within reason, then why do you need toe arms for adjustabilty? Isn't their purpose (other then the joints), to allow you to adjust them so that your toe is set at zero? If you can do that with what you already have the nwhy buy them for adjustability? sorry if im coming off like an jerk, im just confused
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Old 05-02-2005, 07:57 PM   #15
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more accurate adjustment, eccentric bolts, as stated before tend to be less precise as well as since it's just thread holding it in place, it can wiggle out of adjustment and/or break.
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:43 PM   #16
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Adjusting eccentric bolts is a bitch. You have to be insanely steady when tightening them down or you throw off your alignment really easily. This is very noticeable when you are using laser alignment equipment.
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neverdone
WongFeiHung you are saying then when camber is bad toe is bad, and vise versa

Chernobyl you are saying that they are inverses of each

which is it?

Also, if you can in fact get the camber you want, and use the stock or eccentricbolts to adjsut toe within reason, then why do you need toe arms for adjustabilty? Isn't their purpose (other then the joints), to allow you to adjust them so that your toe is set at zero? If you can do that with what you already have the nwhy buy them for adjustability? sorry if im coming off like an jerk, im just confused
What I mean is camber affects toe and vice versa.

Toe arms give you more adjustability and eliminate rubber bushings for less slop...and they look cool.
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Old 05-03-2005, 02:06 PM   #18
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good toe bars sound like a great upgrade, there are good reason to buy them, but for a 2" to 2.5" inch drop will they be nesscary if I already have rucas? ANd is it nessesary to have my toe set 0 perfectly?
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuy
Because they get worn out.
Yeah,especially while driftng, the side-load forces put strain on your bushings (all of them) and in addition, can make those ecentric bolts turn. Making every mounting joint solid and keeping the adjustment linear (screw-type adjustment of length) will be less apt to change with the forces caused by severe slip angles (drifting). Even though your toe can be set to 0 with stock arms, its 8,000,000% more likely to change after a couple of months of drifting.
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:26 PM   #20
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I see - athough it is possible to return toe to 0 with the stock adjustment, a decent drop, and rucas, - it is a good idea to get the toe bars just for reassurance. A large drop in the front with camber correction does not affect front toe settings. Is these true?
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neverdone
I see - athough it is possible to return toe to 0 with the stock adjustment, a decent drop, and rucas, - it is a good idea to get the toe bars just for reassurance. A large drop in the front with camber correction does not affect front toe settings. Is these true?
It does. Adjust your tie rods.
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