sr turbo oil lines (lube?) - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

'90RPS13 · 11-07-2006, 11:52 PM

when re-assembling the oil lines to the turbo on a sr20 equiped 240 i have found that 1 thread inside the block has striped. i was thinking that aside from heli-coiling the block i could perhaps use some assembly lube to help ease the banjo bolt in. does any one have a perfered type of assemble lube or has any one ran across this problem before?

thank for your help

GSXRJJordan · 11-08-2006, 12:15 AM

yeah, I've run into this... what a nightmare.

So i hooked everything back up, and tightened the lines, and realized the lower oil tap was stripped. I started looking around for other fittings to try, or anything that would seal it up, but no luck.

I drilled it out and retapped to 14mm 1.50 tp, and used an air conditioning hardline end (that was 14mm 1.50 tp) and cut the end off my existing hardline (with the banjo end), then used a piece of rubber tubing to connect the two hardlines. I tried to flare the ends of the hardlines, but it still blew tiny droplets whenever I went WOT at high rpm (basically whenever the oil pressure goes above 35 psi or so, I think). All in all not an ideal fix, but cheap and worked - hardest part was getting the tap (from snapon.com, like $13). I ended up having custom stainless lines made anyway.

I will say that tapping anything on the engine block while the block is in the car SUCKS - I had to ditch the T handle and use a wrench, steadying it with my hands... good thing I've had a lot of experience drilling/tapping, cause you'd really hate to F it up...

Anyway, I'd stay away from "stopgap" solutions like assembly lube/JB weld (which would be semi-permanent) and have some custom lines made up... you should go stainless anyway.

g6civcx · 11-08-2006, 07:01 AM

If you have access to a welder, the best solution would be to weld a fiting onto the block. You don't have to fix the thread. Just clean it up.

Get in touch with Taka Motorsports and they can set you up with all kinds of fittings. Don't reuse the stock lines. Throw them away. They are a pain to work with, and make it harder to remove the turbo.

bgindn · 11-08-2006, 03:23 PM

agreed.

weld a fitting into the block is the best solution. However, i along with others might not have access to welding machines, so helicoil might be only option.

take your time, the first few times I "performed" helicoil I failed...but with practice comes perfect.

harp

'90RPS13 · 11-08-2006, 10:28 PM

i actually called a local machine shop and we decided that a heli-coil would not be able to hold the amount of pressure needed for the oil supply. the machine shop recomended doing a threaded insert for $40. but of coarse, he will require me to remove the engine befor he will do anything to the block. I had thought about trying a thread chaser but so far i have had no luck finding any at all. does any one know where i could get one?

thanks again,
p.s.
i also had ordered a new banjo bolt from nissan for a z32. the new bolt is the same thread size and pitch but the hole through the center is conceterably smaller. i know this would probably increase oil pressure but im not sure why mine is different from the factory bolt. any thoughts?

slideways2004 · 12-10-2006, 10:07 AM

bump. i'm in the same boat!! and to top it off, there is an event a week from now. i'm gonna try the helicoil and then install new taka lines. i'm hoping that will hold up.

about welding the fitting in there, what kind of fitting? does the fitting accept an A/n fitting? it looks like it could be possible with the motor in teh car

reactor · 12-10-2006, 10:55 AM

I had the exact same thing happen to me 4 1/2 years ago when I first did my swap. Although it wasn't my fault, the engine came with it stripped. Put in a helicoil, and for 4 1/2 years haven't had a single problem with any leaks.

slideways2004 · 12-10-2006, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reactor

I had the exact same thing happen to me 4 1/2 years ago when I first did my swap. Although it wasn't my fault, the engine came with it stripped. Put in a helicoil, and for 4 1/2 years haven't had a single problem with any leaks.

did you do it while the engine was in the car? everybody says they put a helicoil in it, but never say if the motor was in the car or not

Ameerov · 12-14-2006, 04:03 PM

Wow, I am not the only one. I just stripped mine last sunday. I have stainless lines and it is the oil line that connects to the block. I am thinking of helicoil and ordering a z32 bolt. Tell me what you think.

g6civcx · 12-15-2006, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgindn

agreed.

weld a fitting into the block is the best solution. However, i along with others might not have access to welding machines, so helicoil might be only option.

take your time, the first few times I "performed" helicoil I failed...but with practice comes perfect.

harp

See his comments above.

11-07-2006, 11:52 PM	#1
'90RPS13 BANNED Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NC Age: 38 Posts: 2,839 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	sr turbo oil lines (lube?) when re-assembling the oil lines to the turbo on a sr20 equiped 240 i have found that 1 thread inside the block has striped. i was thinking that aside from heli-coiling the block i could perhaps use some assembly lube to help ease the banjo bolt in. does any one have a perfered type of assemble lube or has any one ran across this problem before? thank for your help

11-08-2006, 12:15 AM	#2
GSXRJJordan Post Whore! Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 9,135 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: GSXRJJordan Feedback Score: 19 reviews	yeah, I've run into this... what a nightmare. So i hooked everything back up, and tightened the lines, and realized the lower oil tap was stripped. I started looking around for other fittings to try, or anything that would seal it up, but no luck. I drilled it out and retapped to 14mm 1.50 tp, and used an air conditioning hardline end (that was 14mm 1.50 tp) and cut the end off my existing hardline (with the banjo end), then used a piece of rubber tubing to connect the two hardlines. I tried to flare the ends of the hardlines, but it still blew tiny droplets whenever I went WOT at high rpm (basically whenever the oil pressure goes above 35 psi or so, I think). All in all not an ideal fix, but cheap and worked - hardest part was getting the tap (from snapon.com, like $13). I ended up having custom stainless lines made anyway. I will say that tapping anything on the engine block while the block is in the car SUCKS - I had to ditch the T handle and use a wrench, steadying it with my hands... good thing I've had a lot of experience drilling/tapping, cause you'd really hate to F it up... Anyway, I'd stay away from "stopgap" solutions like assembly lube/JB weld (which would be semi-permanent) and have some custom lines made up... you should go stainless anyway. __________________ Jordan Innovations has a new web site! www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

11-08-2006, 07:01 AM	#3
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	If you have access to a welder, the best solution would be to weld a fiting onto the block. You don't have to fix the thread. Just clean it up. Get in touch with Taka Motorsports and they can set you up with all kinds of fittings. Don't reuse the stock lines. Throw them away. They are a pain to work with, and make it harder to remove the turbo.

11-08-2006, 03:23 PM	#4
bgindn Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Southern California Posts: 230 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	agreed. weld a fitting into the block is the best solution. However, i along with others might not have access to welding machines, so helicoil might be only option. take your time, the first few times I "performed" helicoil I failed...but with practice comes perfect. harp

11-08-2006, 10:28 PM	#5
'90RPS13 BANNED Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NC Age: 38 Posts: 2,839 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i actually called a local machine shop and we decided that a heli-coil would not be able to hold the amount of pressure needed for the oil supply. the machine shop recomended doing a threaded insert for $40. but of coarse, he will require me to remove the engine befor he will do anything to the block. I had thought about trying a thread chaser but so far i have had no luck finding any at all. does any one know where i could get one? thanks again, p.s. i also had ordered a new banjo bolt from nissan for a z32. the new bolt is the same thread size and pitch but the hole through the center is conceterably smaller. i know this would probably increase oil pressure but im not sure why mine is different from the factory bolt. any thoughts?

12-10-2006, 10:07 AM	#6
slideways2004 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Houston Age: 38 Posts: 1,706 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	bump. i'm in the same boat!! and to top it off, there is an event a week from now. i'm gonna try the helicoil and then install new taka lines. i'm hoping that will hold up. about welding the fitting in there, what kind of fitting? does the fitting accept an A/n fitting? it looks like it could be possible with the motor in teh car

12-10-2006, 10:55 AM	#7
reactor Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Washington Posts: 118 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I had the exact same thing happen to me 4 1/2 years ago when I first did my swap. Although it wasn't my fault, the engine came with it stripped. Put in a helicoil, and for 4 1/2 years haven't had a single problem with any leaks.

12-14-2006, 04:03 PM	#9
Ameerov Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Los Angeles(LAX) Age: 39 Posts: 236 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Wow, I am not the only one. I just stripped mine last sunday. I have stainless lines and it is the oil line that connects to the block. I am thinking of helicoil and ordering a z32 bolt. Tell me what you think.