99 problems, and there all bitches

[S-Nation S13]

couple of days ago, ive noticed that ive been running a little on the hot side. so i do what any right minded individual will do, replace what i think is the culprit, and move on. long story short i pretty much replaced everything. new thermo, water pump, radiator, radiator cap, and a coolant flush. YES I BLEED THE SYSTEM USING THE BLEEDER HOLE, ON A UPWARD HILL, AND I ROCKED THE CAR AT ALL ANGLES TO TRY AND HELP THE AIR BUBBLES OUT.

the problem, i have is that after my cars sits for 8 plus hours, ill run it for about 5 minON IDLE, and my guage will tell me that im running hella hot, ill turn the heater on, and it'll be hella cold. ive read how inaccurate the temp guages can be, so i bought an aftermarket one.

QUESTION 1 will the soch lower radiator hose adapter work, becau i still need the hose adapter to tap the temp sender in.

QUESTION 2 where is the best place to splice in that hose adapter, UPPER RADIATOR HOSE OR LOWER RADIATOR HOSE.

[Ali 556]

1- check if the upper rad hose is hot and the low is cold you still have air in the system.

2- upper is the way to go.

3- shoc or just drill and and tap is the sam thing.

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by Ali 556

1- check if the upper rad hose is hot and the low is cold you still have air in the system.

2- upper is the way to go.

3- shoc or just drill and and tap is the sam thing.

came to the conclusion, that i still might have air trapped within the system, because going up hill makes the gauge move. As for the hose adapter, what your saying is that...... I CAN USE IT, ALL I NEED IS THE RIGHT FITTING, AND IM GOOD TO GO. SPLICE IN THE UPPER RAD HOSE, WIRE UP CORRECTLY..AND BAM...NO NEED TO LOOK AT OE CLUSTER TEMP GAUGE AGAIN.

correct me if im wrong, and thank for the reply......

[Sileighty_85]

While you were bleeding it did you turn on the heater?

You obilviously still have an air buble in the system if your heater is blowing cold air.

[S-Nation S13]

ya had the, heater on max and the blower on max, i was driving to school, and the temp gauge did it again. i was going uphill, and the temp started to climb, ( so i know i still have air bubbles in there, but what i dont get is that....i pulled over, turned the car off, went and looked under the hood NO STEAM, NO LEAKS, so i was like WTF, i started the car, and continued on my way ( MIND THAT, THAT WHOLE PROCESS TOOK ABOUT LESS THE 2 MINS.) This time the gauge read just above the mid point. what i dont understand is i didnt even allow the car to cool down, turned it off and turned it back on.

Question: is my gauge hella off ( in its accuracy )? Because if i "overheated" while on, turned the car off for less than 2 min, and turned back on again, wouldnt my gauge read "overheated" again?

[Sileighty_85]

one process that i do always gets air out of the system.

let the engine warm up a little bit
turn on heater
do a second gear pull to redline Or close to
let engine brake while in gear
repeat until heater blows hot air.

Ive done this numerous times on my engines and customers engine worked every time

dont forget to check the level afterwards

[fakts13]

do yourself a favor and buy one of these:
Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive
spend about $20 and be able to properly bleed your coolant system.

1. with funnel installed, fill coolant system till it fills funnel about 1/4 full
2. run motor with heater on @ 2-3k rpms until t-stat opens up (lower radiator hose gets hot)
3. let motor idle for a few minutes after t-stat opens and then shut off your motor.
4. fill coolant overflow tank to max line and you're done.

note: you should try to keep the coolant level in the funnel at about 1/4. that way when the system burps it won't suck in air, and if the funnel starts to fill up from coolant expanding or boiling, you have plenty of time to shut motor off.

[Ali 556]

BTW,

delete the t-stat and free your mind of this shit. my KA used to make as same as you, overheating bla bla, deleted the t-stat and used to run like a champ.

and NO it will take the same to heat up in the morning and you will never ever overheat.

Now

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by Ali 556

BTW,

delete the t-stat and free your mind of this shit. my KA used to make as same as you, overheating bla bla, deleted the t-stat and used to run like a champ.

and NO it will take the same to heat up in the morning and you will never ever overheat.

Now

im not going that route.

Originally Posted by fakts13

do yourself a favor and buy one of these:
Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive
spend about $20 and be able to properly bleed your coolant system.

1. with funnel installed, fill coolant system till it fills funnel about 1/4 full
2. run motor with heater on @ 2-3k rpms until t-stat opens up (lower radiator hose gets hot)
3. let motor idle for a few minutes after t-stat opens and then shut off your motor.
4. fill coolant overflow tank to max line and you're done.

note: you should try to keep the coolant level in the funnel at about 1/4. that way when the system burps it won't suck in air, and if the funnel starts to fill up from coolant expanding or boiling, you have plenty of time to shut motor off.

done this numerus times, and i still seem to run hot?

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

one process that i do always gets air out of the system.

let the engine warm up a little bit
turn on heater
do a second gear pull to redline Or close to
let engine brake while in gear
repeat until heater blows hot air.

Ive done this numerous times on my engines and customers engine worked every time

dont forget to check the level afterwards

im not to sure what you mean..

IF I WERE TO DO WHAT YOU GUYS ASK TO NEAR PERFECTION, AND I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS...would this be a sign that my temp guage is going out, or not calibrated anymore...

[nismoman]

Originally Posted by Ali 556

BTW,

delete the t-stat and free your mind of this shit. my KA used to make as same as you, overheating bla bla, deleted the t-stat and used to run like a champ.

and NO it will take the same to heat up in the morning and you will never ever overheat.

Now

this is a really dumb idea.......you obviously dont understand why a thermostat is there to begin with.

[S-Nation S13]

whats the thread pitch on the sensor adapter for the switch that goes on the lower radiator hose?

[mikey976]

go back to said hill, put something behind rear wheels and jack the nose of the car up as high as it will go. start motor let it idle and open rad cap. you want the system unpressurized. also open bleeder screw and turn heater to full blast.

as the car warms up fill rad till you can see fluid running through the rad but its not filled to the neck. while doing this squeeze the lower rad hose till you start seeing bubbles in the rad and water starts to seep out bleeder screw.
from there you should be good to go.

FYI stock temp gauge has 3 settings "ON, OFF and Too Fucking Late" i will never trust that gauge

[theboy]

if you want to know if your gauge/sensor is going bad, then use a "Q" drill bit and drill a hole next to the sensor. Tap it for 1/8" NPT and use a seperate gauge (i chose auto meter) and monitor it yourself at that point. The stock gauge is 20 years old and has never been reliable. You dont need a hose adaptor cause they usually leak anyways.

[S-Nation S13]

found a complete s12 coupe at the junkie, and found out that it to uses the hose adapter, that can be also found on the lower radiator hose of the sohc engines, also went ahead and bought a after market temp gauge.

IM PLANNING ON SPLICING INTO THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TO GET TEMP SIGNAL...
do i have to put tephlon on the threadings?

[fakts13]

use plumber's/pipe dope / teflon paste.