Anyone have electrical problems with their S14?

[SimpleS14]

I'm not sure if anyone else has experience this...but there are times when my car does something weird. When I roll down the driver side window all the way....it doesn't want to come up...unless I hold on it for awhile...or roll up the driver side window at the same time. Then when I'm around 60mph...the speedo will start moving up and down like a freaking boost gauge. Also the bulb for my gauge cluster clock goes out once and awhile..but to get a new one cost $8...and can only be found at the stealership.


Anyways...does anyone else have simliar problems with their car? or have a solution?

I'm getting a EDM gauge cluster.....but the window problem still confuses me.

[slideways240]

if the bulb goes out and comes back,then it's not likely the bulb.when they die.they don't come back.sounds to me more like a bad ground.

[publicenemy137]

I used to have the same power window problem for some odd reason it's gone now. Could have been after Robbie installed the HKS ground wire kit. As for the speedometer, have the same prob cept it's my tachometer

[RedSuns]

welcome to the world of electronic gremlins...after my SR swap myine used to the the speedo thing...but i ignored it and it just stopped.....how far up is it moving though?

[mutkung]

i got the same problem with the power window.

[papershot]

i always thought the lighting on the clock sucked anyway. i cant even see it when the lights are on at night.

when you open the door with the keys in, does the beeping noise go "beep...beep...beep" or a higher pitched "beepbeep....beepbeep"

i hate wiring

[Ritz S14]

Originally Posted by papershot

when you open the door with the keys in, does the beeping noise go "beep...beep...beep" or a higher pitched "beepbeep....beepbeep"

i hate wiring

I can't stand that beep. I disconnected that bish the day I got it. It's 2 wires/white plug connected to a yellow box directly under the steering columb.

[idlafie]

Originally Posted by 95KoukiS14

I'm not sure if anyone else has experience this...but there are times when my car does something weird. When I roll down the driver side window all the way....it doesn't want to come up...unless I hold on it for awhile...or roll up the driver side window at the same time. Then when I'm around 60mph...the speedo will start moving up and down like a freaking boost gauge. Also the bulb for my gauge cluster clock goes out once and awhile..but to get a new one cost $8...and can only be found at the stealership.


Anyways...does anyone else have simliar problems with their car? or have a solution?

I'm getting a EDM gauge cluster.....but the window problem still confuses me.

It's possible that you have a short, (or a crack), in the switch circuit board. Only way to know for sure is to remove the switch assembly, take it apart & inspect it for shorts or cracks. A loose ground wire can also cause the same problems.

As for the speedo, it could be that the sender unit on the tranny is going bad or you have a loose ground on the harness somewhere.

As for the bulb, it's probably just a loose contact between the bulb & the wiring circuit behind the cluster. Remove the gauge cluster & twist the connector so that it makes proper contact with the wiring circuit behind the gauge cluster.

Anyhow, hope this helps.

ID

[AN89HATCH]

I have an s13 240sx, but my clock does the same thing, I replaced the bulb, still does it, if you want it to turn on, just hit the steering wheel a cupple of times, works for me haha

[Pudula]

The numbers on my clock are gone, yet it still lights up...

[justinhustle]

my climate control never lights up unless it wants to

[projectRDM]

For the window, is your car a 95?

The 95 S14s used an external window amp instead of an internal one in the switch. The switch itself is common to break or wear on the auto function, so it feels loose, what's happened it is it's broken inside and making contact irregularly, when trying to roll it up it's also feeding a down input, alternately the switch will stick sometimes when rolling down and keep power on the motor after it's down, eventually burning up the motor. They changed the design on the 96-up because of that. Every S14 I've parted out, the driverside window switch is the second most sought after part. What I'd recommend to solve it permanently is to switch over to 96-98 electronics, all you need is the switch and the door harness, easily found in a salvage car. The rest of the wiring for the passenger side is the same and the newer door harness is a direct plug in, and you'll never have to worry about it again. Buying a new 95 main switch will only postpone further problems.

The speedometer could be a damaged VSS, if the pinion gear is broken or teeth have sheared off it will erraticly jump like that, otherwise the gauge itself is bad. It's not likely a ground problem because you'd see problems with the entire cluster, not just one unit.

The cluster bulb is more than likely just loose, try twisting it in tighter to make a good contact.

[SimpleS14]

R240NA - My car is a 95...so your saying I just need the driver side harness and switch from a 96+ S14?...that is going to be a hard find :/

[projectRDM]

Naw, any salvage yard will have one. Look around for a parts car on the forums too.

[niss]

i have a 96 and my driver side window does the same thing. manufacture date on my car is 7/96.

[holisticbeatz]

Yep.. I do..

Sometimes my speedo goes a little wacko, but I believe it's because of a bad speed sensor on the tranny. I'm just too lazy to get underneath the car and check it out, CA summer sucks for now. Too hot.. I was having problems with the tach on my car, but changing the gauge cluster solved that problem. Now I'm having a problem with the power antenna, it doesn't want to go down. I'm pretty fed up with it now, so think I'll just install a stationary one. Maybe if I do that, I could finnally install a JDM tyte antenna ball. Anyhow, I'm sure most 240SXs come out of the factory with a few electrical gremlins. Besides, our cars are getting old, and as the years pass, things get worn out.

[skatanic28]

my clock doesnt work at all. it did when i first got the car, then decided to take a break. where should i look first?

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by skatanic28

my clock doesnt work at all. it did when i first got the car, then decided to take a break. where should i look first?

The clock would be a good start.

[Ritz S14]

Oh yeah.. I've got a question.. Are the HVAC controls susposed to have a back light? Cause when I bought my 95, none of them turn on with the parking lights.

[idlafie]

Originally Posted by Ritz S14

Oh yeah.. I've got a question.. Are the HVAC controls susposed to have a back light? Cause when I bought my 95, none of them turn on with the parking lights.

Yep...HVAC controls along with the rear defrost switch & the emergency flashers switch are all supposed to have backlights.

The HVAC controls use the following bulbs:
Nissan part #
27545-50J00 Lamp-Heater Con ...you'll need 3 I think...this should be the short bulb
27545-50J05 Lamp-Heater Con...you'll only need 1...this is the long bulb.
In order to replace the bulbs, you'll have to remove the HVAC control unit & partially disassemble it, (which means removing the back cover & disconnecting a wiring harness from an electronic circuit board & removing the circuit board. Tools need are phillips screwdriver, about 3 small flathead screwdrivers (jewelry-type screwdrivers preferred), and a needle-nose pliers - to pinch the plastic retaining tabs on the circuit board)
It's not that hard to do if you have some handyman skills and are comfortable taking apart electronic circuits...

As for the Rear Defrost & Emergency flasher switches, you'll need Radio Shack Part #272-1092C - 12 Volt/60 milliamp Micro Lamps #7219. You'll have to completely tear apart the switches to get to the bulb assembly units, to which you'll have to seperate the bulb from the base unit to replace it. It's not that hard to do..just time consuming....

Anyhow, hope this helps....good luck!!
ID
'95 SE