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Old 03-12-2004, 06:25 AM   #1
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LCA's fall victim to energy suspension (2004 thread updated with 2009 information!)

I was under my car replacing the cat and decided to check out the tension rods after remembering how other threads have mentioned them cracking due to poly bushings. I found a crack on the first side and that was pretty bad on its own. Then, I look at the other side and see that it's ready to come off cuz the crack goes all the way around the bolts holding the tensionrod to LCA.

If they decide to give what will happen? I won't be waiting until this happens, but I'm curious and I will be ordering new LCA's and tension rods, maybe something adjustable who knows.
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Old 03-12-2004, 08:37 AM   #2
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i havent heard anyone having this problem with the whiteline bushings btw.

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Old 03-12-2004, 03:23 PM   #3
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I'm pretty sure its the design of the bushing. Energy Suspension has a big block while whiteline is angled more to the geometry of how the tension rods move. Thank for the info that was another question I was thinking about. I'm guessing adjustable tension rods won't give me that problem either.
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Old 03-13-2004, 12:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_s13
i havent heard anyone having this problem with the whiteline bushings btw.

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I have.. luckily, not me.


Halz: that request for a fender that color will be a tall one, seeing as how that's a rare color and it was only 89-90.
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Old 03-16-2004, 03:31 PM   #5
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Well I got some pics together from the lower control arm now that i have it replaced. As you can see they were ready to go. I decided to shave the poly bushings down in order to let them move around a little more. We'll see how it goes, so far so good.
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Old 03-12-2004, 06:03 PM   #6
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thats f***ed up i have energy suspension on my s14, is this a common problem?? is there any thign that can be done , i would think that ajustable tension rods with the solid metal would be worse on the lower control arms thogh?? whats up ..
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Old 03-12-2004, 06:57 PM   #7
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I've heard of this happening alot to stock arms. Aftermarket shouldn't be as bad, also PDM sells arms/rods with bushings pressed in already.
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:33 PM   #8
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Unrelated, but heres an illustration of what happens when the LCA does break:

http://halzmann2.homestead.com/files/09.jpg
http://halzmann2.homestead.com/files/11.jpg
http://halzmann2.homestead.com/files/18.jpg
http://halzmann2.homestead.com/files/27.jpg
http://halzmann2.homestead.com/files/40.jpg

Hydroplaned at 85mph (in the 'fast' lane) when I went over a short overpass that had collected water between the expansion joints that was in the middle of a decreasing radius bend. Put 'two off', over a 4" curb at a shallow angle, and went through the edges of some bushes, little reflectors, etc.. Dropped back down onto the shoulder, and the wheel was on its side under the car (where the dents are).
Very exciting!!
Low-depth Azenis are not really very good rain tires.. especially in surprise standing water.. especially at 85mph.. around a turn.. So. Beware the Rain Gods, and physics!

Oh, and does anyone have a fender? Color-code TH1?
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:30 PM   #9
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so great this seems like a big f***ing problem anybody got a soulution???
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:46 PM   #10
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umm, spherical bushing tc rods. or whitelines, or ive seen somepeople drill holes all the way around the bushing, to soften it up.
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Old 03-12-2004, 11:41 PM   #11
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I will just shave off some of the bushing to shape it more like the whiteline bushing so it's more like a cone and less like a big cylinder of poly. This should give it more leeway but until then I found an LCA for the driver side which is the worst one.
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Old 03-17-2004, 10:17 AM   #12
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gues what guys i looked under my car today and sure enough cracked in between the two holes, after 6 months of street use, and 1 auto cross. with stock ride hieght the whole time. Im gonna replace them this weekend with some used ones i got, im gonna shave the bushing and drill a couple holes in to it like 5 i guess, like a revovler hope fully this will fix it.

now has any one heard of this happening with sepherical t/c rods, i wouldnt think so because they wont bind the suspension because there sepherical and such , but now that i think about it, they are medal and have no give whats so ever, what do you guys think,,,,
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Old 03-17-2004, 11:19 AM   #13
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Before i bought the bushings from pdm i actually e-mailed don nimi and he says he has never heard of any problems like that with the 240, only the datsun 510 cause the 240 has solid steel tension rods. He says even in front end crashed he hasnt seen one break, only bend. And i would also HOPE that the spherical ones wouldnt break or else they are a waste of money,
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Old 03-17-2004, 11:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westboroughpimp
Before i bought the bushings from pdm i actually e-mailed don nimi and he says he has never heard of any problems like that with the 240, only the datsun 510 cause the 240 has solid steel tension rods. He says even in front end crashed he hasnt seen one break, only bend. And i would also HOPE that the spherical ones wouldnt break or else they are a waste of money,

its not the tension rods that break its the lower control arms that break
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Old 03-17-2004, 11:43 AM   #15
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ahh. so if you got spherical tension rods would your LCA's be more likely to break?
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Old 03-17-2004, 11:49 AM   #16
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exactttllyyy!!!

i would think NO because the sepherical bearing would allow the LCA to move normall with out binding, but then again it will be metal to metal so more stress transfred in to the LCA. thoughtsss????/
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Old 03-17-2004, 12:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsracer
exactttllyyy!!!
.. but then again it will be metal to metal so more stress transfred in to the LCA. thoughtsss????/
Probably, but the damaged that I've seen to LCAs looks more fatique oriented than impact. Sorta like bending a paperclip back and forth until it breaks. The TC rod, heim joint type or not, is a flat bar on the LCA end. I guess idealy you'd want another axis at the LCA attachment point. Like a ball joint or something like that.
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Old 03-17-2004, 12:02 PM   #18
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i got a thought! buy SPL pro LCA's. A steal at only 600 bucks!
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Old 03-17-2004, 12:47 PM   #19
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i guess my reall question hear is will this damage still occur with aftermarkey T/C rods, because even tohugh im gonna shave and drill my bushing i dont want to risk it.
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Old 03-17-2004, 02:21 PM   #20
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wow...I have never seen something like that happen before. So is this the same case with other T/C rods...such as TIEN and SPL?
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:08 PM   #21
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This is not a problem with spherical bearings.

The problem with the poly bushings is that poly doesn't have the ability to flex around an axis like rubber or spherical bearings would. SO, wwhen the LCA moves through it's arc, the bushing resist's the motion up and down b/c it is clamped, and held in place b/w the mounting points. Thus causing the T/C rod mount to bind on the LCA, and eventually rip free. Unless the poly bushing can rotate on the metal insert it will cause this problem, no matter who makes it.

I've read that drilling the holes in it like a revolver allows the bushing to flex much better, and makes them safer, but if the mount is still clamping on the edges of the bushing, you'll still get binding. I would think drilling them would also lessen their effectiveness of maintaining suspension geometry under load, but probably not enough to matter.

Something else to help prevent this is to make sure you really lube up the metal insert before you put it inside the bushings. Like lots, and lots of grease. Poly has to be able to move freely.

Either way you go there are pro's and cons.

This is the reason Nismo uses hard rubber bushings instead of poly. Rubber allows axial twist.

edit- just thought I would add that poly LCA bushings further exacerbate this problem.
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sykikchimp
This is not a problem with spherical bearings.

The problem with the poly bushings is that poly doesn't have the ability to flex around an axis like rubber or spherical bearings would. SO, wwhen the LCA moves through it's arc, the bushing resist's the motion up and down b/c it is clamped, and held in place b/w the mounting points. Thus causing the T/C rod mount to bind on the LCA, and eventually rip free. Unless the poly bushing can rotate on the metal insert it will cause this problem, no matter who makes it.

I've read that drilling the holes in it like a revolver allows the bushing to flex much better, and makes them safer, but if the mount is still clamping on the edges of the bushing, you'll still get binding. I would think drilling them would also lessen their effectiveness of maintaining suspension geometry under load, but probably not enough to matter.

Something else to help prevent this is to make sure you really lube up the metal insert before you put it inside the bushings. Like lots, and lots of grease. Poly has to be able to move freely.

Either way you go there are pro's and cons.

This is the reason Nismo uses hard rubber bushings instead of poly. Rubber allows axial twist.

edit- just thought I would add that poly LCA bushings further exacerbate this problem.
'
thanks for the response i will be drilling them i was thinking 5 holes in total with one about every 70 degrees ,

in addition to this i was gonna take on my grinder and grind the part that clamps on tho the bushing more conical so that the only part that touches the mount is the metal insert in the middle where the bolt is. what do you think
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:43 PM   #23
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gsracer: I'm pretty sure you'd be fine just shaving off the sides.

When I took a look at the tension rod bracket I saw that the poly bushing really grinded down the bracket to until the silver showed. You could tell that it was the back semi-circle half of the bushing that was really going to work. From this I assume I could have been safe enough by just shaving the back half but whatever, it was fun watching the poly fly when it met the wirebrush on the bench grinder. Haha.

If you do the revolver type hole drilling won't it cause for more travel forward and backward from the LCA from hard braking or accel? I'm assuming it would if the holes are drilled large enough.
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:35 PM   #24
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so i got poly t/c rods and poly LCA's and i just bought 2-way lsd to drift with. hmmm maybe i should change to power brace/spherical rods before some shit goes down.
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:45 PM   #25
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im gonna do the holes small enough just to soften it up a bit
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Old 03-17-2004, 08:55 PM   #26
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newbie question: what are spherical rods? are SPLs spherical?
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Old 03-18-2004, 07:26 AM   #27
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Spherical rod ends, rod bearings, Heim Joints, Pillowball's... all the same thing.



Gracer - those are both good ideas.
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Old 03-18-2004, 08:21 AM   #28
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Quote:
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Spherical rod ends, rod bearings, Heim Joints, Pillowball's... all the same thing.


..... .......
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Old 04-05-2004, 04:43 PM   #29
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UPDATE!

I e-mailed courtesyparts.com about my problem with the bushings just to give them warning that the poly bushings might be causing the same problem to other customers. They responded by saying, "We believe that you have other problems. The bushings are urethane and would give long before the metal would." Soo, now I'm lost because I'm still pretty sure it was due to the poly bushings that my LCA was broken. Any ideas of what else might have made this occur?
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Old 04-06-2004, 03:41 AM   #30
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Question:
In which way does the bushing bind or restrict movement
From side to side? or in a 'rotational' way?

If the cracks are results from the side to side bind,
are LCAs in danger from spherical bearings when the ball is pressed against one side of the rod creating restriction of movement towards one way?
After installation of adj. tension rods and putting the car back on ground, the rod was pressed against one side and needed readjustment on ground.
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