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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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hey fellas. well i just ran my 240 for the first time today. and i must say i was VERY dissapointed. i have an 89 hatchback w/ an apex dual N1 catback exhaust system, injen intake, & venom 400 control module. and my engine is running strong with no problems(just broke 90K miles). anyways, i ran it twice & both times i got a 17.6. a 17.6!!?? is it just me, or is this a really bad time for a semi-modded car? true, i have an automatic, which might lessen my time a little as compared to a stick, but i didnt think it would be that bad. i mean cmon, i almost ran an 18 for God's sake! i didnt expect to run 13's or anything, but i figured i could at least break 16's! it seemed like everyone else did!!! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':angry:'> anyways, there is more to this post than me complaining. can anyone give me some advice/consolement/explanation on today. that would be great, because i have never been dissapointed with my car until today(i do fairly good at street racing...its not like my car is slow or anything). i was just shocked by the fact that i couldnt get any higher than a 17.6. it was really strange because i seemed to be the only one who had the exact same time for both runs. someone please talk to me! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#2 |
New Title
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Did you take your sound system out before you raced?
100lbs = ~0.10sec so it wouldn't matter a ton anyway (wouldn't be the reason you didn't hit 16.99) How were you launching? Spin tires any? Automatics are slow. I'm sure there are some auto-racers here than can give you tips on launching...since after launch you can start eating a cheese burger in an auto...just keep your foot to the floor.
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#3 |
Nissanaholic!
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Don't feel bad man, we all can't be good drivers. . . <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
![]() Seriously though, practice launching. . . n stuff. . .
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#4 |
Zilvia Member
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its funny because ive heard so many automatic jokes that they just dont seem to bother me anymore. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#5 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Have to say this: even Motor Trend calls auto's "slush-o-matics".
Power braking is good. Its just before brake stand, if you will. It keeps the revs of the engine up, but not enough to break the rear tires loose. There is also a sensor you could remove (on tranny i think). This shifts the tranny hard and not until almost redline. I've been in an auto 240 with out the sensor in and it snaps your head like a V8 auto with a shift kit! Shift the auto like a stick. Make it start in 1st and as you get close to the end of your powerband, push it to second, and so on. This could help too. I don't know anyone with an auto anymore so I can't try these things for you, but they sound like they would work. |
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#6 |
BANNED
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stick is 1.3-2 seconds quicker then auto <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#7 |
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guidot, I've heard actually shifting an auto is bad for the transmission. Dono why (maybe cauz you can't control the clutch?) but that's what I've heard.
"considering the fact that most real (professional) drag cars are automatic...." They have specially designed transmissions, you can't really compare street stuff to racing. Besides, I think a lot of those guys use sequential transmissions of some sort, so they are still controlling when the car shifts via forward and back lever or a button, depending on how they have it setup.
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#8 |
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Might as well shift for it, being at the drag strip isn't the best for the tranny anyway so you might as well get the most out of it. And POWER BRAKE, I will almost gaurentee you will break 16's if you do, it makes that big of a difference. Also next time save the money you spent on a venom 400 and buy a real performance part <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sigh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#10 |
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whats the altitude at the track? remember, altitude makes difference for naturally aspirated cars.. the higher the altitude the slower the motor runs because of the slightly lower atmosphere pressure..
or maybe coz its auto?!? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=' ![]() at least you went to the track and now you have some numbers!! hehe
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#11 |
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Bbandit @ May 24 2002,10:16)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">whats the altitude at the track? remember, altitude makes difference for naturally aspirated cars.. the higher the altitude the slower the motor runs because of the slightly lower atmosphere pressure..
or maybe coz its auto?!? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=' ![]() at least you went to the track and now you have some numbers!! hehe</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> I believe it has more to do with the lower % of oxygen per measurement of air at high altitude...
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#12 |
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (DSC @ May 25 2002,08:31)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Bbandit @ May 24 2002,10:16)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">whats the altitude at the track? remember, altitude makes difference for naturally aspirated cars.. the higher the altitude the slower the motor runs because of the slightly lower atmosphere pressure..
or maybe coz its auto?!? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=' ![]() at least you went to the track and now you have some numbers!! hehe</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> I believe it has more to do with the lower % of oxygen per measurement of air at high altitude...</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> yea.. and that too.. thanks for adding <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>
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#13 |
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There are upgrades for Auto trannies like Performance Torque converters, and shift kits (iff they make one for the 240).
I used to have a 240 w/ auto tranny and it sucked. The problem was it always shifted too late, way out of the power curve. like at 6800 rpm. and of course it shifted too slow.
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#15 |
Zilvia Member
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yes i did run 17+ s13grl. and thanks for reminding me because i almost forgot. i appreciate it. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':angry:'> as for the altitude thing, i doubt it would make that much of a difference(i was at Englishtown, btw). its not going to make up for 17.5 seconds. its kinda like the same thing about removing the sound system. ill worry about that once i start hitting respectable times and want to shave 10ths off of my time, but for now i just wanna hit 16! well i guess ill try power-braking next time, that should definetly help. btw, ca18guy i only spent $100 on the venom(used). and actually, its the most noticable upgrade i have done to my car so far. its a very underrated bolt-on in my opinion. well im going to be getting a JWT ECU soon. and i just got my header in yesterday(hotshot new model). so once i add those 2 & learn to power-brake i should be doing a little better. ive been considering a dry NOS kit as well. its a safer system(well about as safe as NOS is gonna get anyway) that hooks up through the intake, instead of mixing in directly with the fuel. thanks for the tips guys. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#16 |
Zilvia Member
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man dont feel bad i have a 95 240 with an auto yeah it sucks but the price was right.. but anyways im shooting for have one of the quickest auto around augusta, ga beside drag cars. Buy the way any body know what in the hell is in an INFANITY I30 because ive got beat by 2 of them and umm the stomped me off the line.
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#20 |
Leaky Injector
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (DSC @ May 25 2002,01:33)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">guidot, I've heard actually shifting an auto is bad for the transmission. Dono why (maybe cauz you can't control the clutch?) but that's what I've heard.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Drag racing period is bad on the car. Also, remember to leave on the last yellow and not the green. You see the green, you lost the race.
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#21 |
Nuclear
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (240SX21 @ May 25 2002,4:39)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Roly, i finished at an equally pathetic 78 MPH.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
ouch... i'll race u in my civic dx!.. jk, the auto plays a role to drivetrain loss. The quick fix would be going to a 50hp - 75hp of nitrous. But that'll put you in the low 16's or high 15's, but it'll put a ton of stress on your older motor. Look into swapping an engine in or rebuild yours and consider going boost. I don't think swapping auto to stick will be as cost effective as going the other route.
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#22 |
Zilvia Member
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hey roly, i have beaten civics before! im not that slow <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#23 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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let's see:
Injen intake $200 N1 Dual $500 Venom 400 $100 Hotshot Headers $300 JWT ECU $500 NOS $500 Total of $2000+, low 16s to mid 15s Used manual tranny + parts $1200 DIY Install, mid 16s I picked the second option, $800 less and will drop 2 seconds off the time. if you're really stuck on auto, that's all good. I switched cause I can't stand auto, boring. I'm not hating, I also have an N1 dual/Injen Intake. I think it's the N1 dual, I felt a lot of low end loss when I put it on. With those mods + 5-speed, I'm hoping for 15s, never took it to the track tho. Oh, and I also have 2 12s in the trunk <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=' ![]() also, don't forget the cheaper upgrades like underdrive pulley and fan removal.
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#25 |
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I dont think that shifting an auto manually is THAT bad....I wasn't suggesting a neutral drop or anything. I know how bad those are...ask my 82 Buick Skylark! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#26 |
Zilvia Junkie
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (240SX21 @ May 25 2002,3:18)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">hey roly, i have beaten civics before! im not that slow <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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#28 |
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Reaction time isn't included in the final time. You can have a better final time then someone but still lose cause of reaction time, but it's not included in the time.
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#30 |
Zilvia Member
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i dont think reaction time is the problem. i actually got a little jump on one of the guys i raced(who still beat me by 3 seconds). i just have to face facts....i need a manual transmission. to be honest its not just about speed. its just too boring to drive an auto. people have been telling me since i started modding my car to convert it, but inever listened. well, im listening now! im just trying to get an estimate first of how much all the parts will cost me & where's the best place to get them from. any suggestions?
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