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Old 04-04-2006, 11:38 PM   #1
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S13 SR20 blacktop help

I just got a S13 blacktop SR20 and on the valve cover is written "good" from its initial test. Now my problem is I have very minimal compression on cylinder number 4 and about 95% leak down through the exhaust. The spark plugs are all very nice looking (a good brown) and all the same. The engine has 80K kilometers and the three other cylinders have about 7-9% leak down and good compression. My question is, if I believe the testing done by those who wrote "good" (which is possible because the spark plugs are all NGK R's and all are showing proper combustion) what could go wrong during shipping? Do the lifters tend to get stuck in an over filled position if the engine is over-revved (therefore holding open the exhaust valve)? I am going to check the clearance between the cam and the rocker arm to see if there is a gap between them when the valve should be closed. I assume if it is touching then the lifter may be somehow seized, if there is a gap than the valve may be burned (but why 95% leak down). Anyone ran into a problem like this before? What was the outcome?
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:12 AM   #2
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i had like 93% leakdown in a cylinder and it ran fine. My ecu also has "bad" written on it but it works fine. is the engine in the car or still waiting to be put in?what was the compression number on 4?
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:42 AM   #3
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the engine is still in the front clip. the compression is very little, like someone breathing through an air hose moderatly (didn't even want to do a comp. test). I found that the liflter is not frozen (loosened of exhast cam and still 95% leak down). I guess i am going to have to pull off the head and have a look . How can your engine run good with 93% leakdown? does it have good enough compression just have lots of blow-by? Thanks
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:42 AM   #4
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Give compression numbers.

"Good" could be "good compression after pouring a quart of 50 weight oil into cylinder 4". Haha. No, seriously. I would not be surprised if you have blown rings/ ringlands on 4.


So... compression test that shit. Motors always run "good"... no, "their best", right before they pop. Known fact, it just is.
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:16 AM   #5
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okay, Ill comp. test it tomarrow and let you guys know. As for the ring thing, it is leaking out of the exhaust not from the oil passageways so why would the rings have anything to do with that? thanks
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:54 AM   #6
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yeah redo the compression test and let us know. as for answering on how my engine ran good, i cant be certain but i had no problems with it for about 5-6 months but then i got a rod knock but thats a different story. but 95% isn't terrible leakdown. and like Dorifitoslut said it could just be the rings. when doing the compression test in #4 try putting some oil in there and see if it improves it at all. if it makes the compression better your rings are most likely bad or going.
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Old 04-06-2006, 12:17 AM   #7
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95% leak down means only 5% of the pressure is remaining in the cylinder (a hole in the piston would give you 100%). I don't think it should be below 17% or so or you need a rebuild. I don't think that cyl. would do anything above 10psi on a comp. test, maybe less .
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Old 04-06-2006, 12:42 AM   #8
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yea do a comp test.

u dont have to take the head off to check the lifters.....u can....it would be easier...but u dont have to.
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:45 AM   #9
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I said the comp. on #4 isn't even enough to blow your finger off (you hardly feel anything) so i am going to pull the head and have a look at the cylinders and the valves today or tomarrow. What would allow this much pressure to escape through the exhaust with the valve seaming to be closed? I will see if the valve is burned but if not i am lost.

I loosened the cam so it no longer was against the rocker and i still got 95% leakdown.

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Old 04-06-2006, 07:27 PM   #10
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can i remove the head without needing a new head gasket? i know some engines kill themonce they are taken off.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:37 PM   #11
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your gonna have to get another. i recommend the apexi headgasket, its working pretty good for me. from my experience there also reusable, just spray on copper gasket sealer and your good.
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:04 AM   #12
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Okay, I just got the head off and had a look. It looks like one exhaust valve in the #4 cylinder lost its seat (valve seat) and began leaking compression past it up into the valve guid which washed off all the oil being put on it. The constant lack of oil on the valve guid then began to cause alot of friction and wore the valve guide out... looks like my head is going to the machine shop... swap delay this engine better be worth the trouble.

Anyone know where I can get a good FSM or just a SM with tourque numbers?
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:12 AM   #13
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bummers, but hey you got it all apart pretty fast and at least now you know the problem. Where in vancouver do you live? i go to Vancouver island all the time to visit family.
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:19 AM   #14
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u cant take taht bitch back???
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:52 AM   #15
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drifter 808 I’m in Vancouver Washington. How are the cops in Hawaii? The last few time I was down there I hardly saw any. Also, about every light I would see some ricers playing the fast and the furious burning out and racing (ugly body kits, loud exhaust, florescent colors). Every once in a while there would be some nice a$$ cars though. As for taking it back, I figure I already took it out of the clip, everything else is in great condition, machining the head will make it almost like new and that is better than another used head, and it will give me a chance to install a good headgasket and other fun stuff!!! But like I said, This engine better be dam~ worth it! (If I can get it back together lol)

Is is worth the extra money for a metal headgasket if i don't plan on running over 15 PSI? Also, when i buy a new clutch disk do i need to get a new pressure plate also? I know they usually come together but is it needed? oh, and if I don't plan on going over say 250hp for a while do i need a fancy clutch (lol) or will an OEM or single disk replacement work just fine (what is the cut off for OEM and what U.S car shares the clutch with the sr20)? Lastly, where can i get all the rubbers hoses for the motor (are they the same as the sr20de and what US car is that in)? thanks

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Old 04-07-2006, 02:34 AM   #16
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well...pay now or pay later. so get a good metal headgasket now. so u dont blow an OE one later.

i higly adise u to pick up a better clutch then OE. i have a Exedy stage one. its pretty good up to 250-300. its sems to handle wut i put on it. about 250+ at the fly. never slipped. tires chirp in second when nailing it or jus keep spinning lol depends on rev. and traction. get a ll new stuff. i picked up the exedy for 250 from evoperformance on ebay. u may want the stage 2. so u dont have to up grade later.

define rubber hoses?? i jus picked to hoses that fit from advanced auto.or the flex type.
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Old 04-07-2006, 02:47 AM   #17
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with the rubber hoses i am talking about basically all the hoses on the engine. I just think it would be fun to replace all of them now with new ones as i rebuild the engine.

what do you think about XTD clutches?like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT or this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT ? dam~ good price, but is it crap? you get what you pay for? I just don't see spending $500 on a clutch as a valuable investment with only 250 or so HP

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Old 04-07-2006, 10:39 AM   #18
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http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2mot...emrepclut.html
get one of those.
i have never heard of that XTD shit. it may not be shit. but 145 for a stage 3 clutch is unreal.there are some really good finds on ebay. but....thas playing with safety. u dont want that shit to break.



as for the hoses jus go to auto zone or somethin and jus get the correct sizes. comes out cheaper. or go to phase2 or srswap.com. they sell OE ones for DET
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Old 04-07-2006, 10:54 PM   #19
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Yea, I was just wondering if anyone heard of them before. I don't think i could even bring myself to install one of those on my engine without a lot of people backing them.
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Old 04-07-2006, 11:02 PM   #20
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yea.......i'd stay away from that with out any feedback.
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:05 PM   #21
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I ordered up an exedy so I feel alot better now. There is no way I am ever going to be happy with my car if I just buy the cheepest crap I can find. It is going to cost alot more for the best stuff, but I feel it is worth it for my own state of mind!!! lol
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Old 04-09-2006, 10:39 PM   #22
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Yah cough up the money on a metal HG. Stock paper HG sucks anyways. Get Cometec if your on a budget or get Apex'i if you got some loot to spare.
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Old 04-14-2006, 11:44 PM   #23
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What size head gasket should i get? 1.2mm (stock) or should i get a bigger one for lower compression for when i eventually upgrade the turbo? would there be a large drop in performance while using the t-25? thank you
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Old 04-15-2006, 03:42 PM   #24
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bump .............
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:28 AM   #25
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get stock metal size or a tiny bit thicker. u dont have to get a thicker one unless u are runnin 400+ i guess.but get stock thickness metal.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:37 AM   #26
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I was reading that since a head gasket is made to be a weak link (in a way) replacing it with a stronger gasket may cause other thing to break (piston/ rings/rods) if over boosted. what are your feelings on that? thanks
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:52 PM   #27
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anyone know about this before i buy one? thanks
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Old 04-18-2006, 03:02 PM   #28
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yea u gotta point there. hhmmmmm. i guess get an OE. i ran 12psi on a T28 on race gas (like 105 octane) and its fine a year later. then 12 psi daily for about....4 months. now i got a potato and i run that a 8psi daily. im still good with my head gasket. if u arent pushin 350 plus..u'll be ok i think.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:12 PM   #29
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Just get a metal HG, doesnt matter if you get stock thickness or thicker, compression drop between the 2 is so minimal its not even funny.
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