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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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vaccum lines
Okay, i am running the hybrid intercooler kit. For awhile on the hot side i was just running some choped up bends and a bunch of couplers, and a dsm bov. It ran fine but then when i got a turbo xs bov put on my hybrid cold pipe and installed it the bov would never work right, so i got a greddy type s bov. It doesnt work at all right now either, so im guessing something is wrong with my vaccum lines, also when i switched to the type s i might have pulled off a vaccum line or something cuz now the car wants to idle at like 4 grand and stay there. I have it sourced coming off a nipple on the back of the intake manifold. From this line it tees off into my waste gate and my boost gauge, the boost gauge is off like5-6 lbs so im guessing its because the vaccum routing. Where should i route the line for the bov, and where is there a seperate source for the wastegate and also the boost gauge?
P.S. My set up: ssac manifold s15 t28 turbo 3 in turob back exhaust 370cc injectors n60 mafs hybrid intercooler type s bov running stock boost
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92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more... |
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#2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Ok im sure someone knows the answer to this question, please help.
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#3 |
Nissanaholic!
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I'd remove every vac line, and use a vacuum manifold...like the "golden eagle" ones.
Basically, you have ONE vacuum source off the manifold...everything else is capped. Use the large brake booster line as a source. Then, you run the rest of the lines off the vam manifold, NO TEES to screw up the signal or leak. A dedicated line to the BOV. A dedicated line to the FPR. A dedicated line to the boost gauge. Simplify. - Brian
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#4 |
Nissanaholic!
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...or do the same with the existing ports on the manifold.
NO TEES.
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#6 |
Nissanaholic!
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Yeah, yeah...I meant to add "Etc, etc..." to the end of that list.
Oops. - Brian
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#7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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so basicaly the lines for the bov waste gate fpr boost gauge will all come from the brake booster line? I thought the waste gate had tyo have it own seperate source or some shit.
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#8 |
No more nissan.
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No No NO. He said get a vacuum distribution block.. use the big hose that sources to the booster line as the main feed for vacuum TO the distribution block..
then, from the block.. go out to each component.
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#9 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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so yea woulding the source of vaccum for each component be fromt he same place, the brake booster line, but they will each have their own port on the block, right?
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#11 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Ahh I can see clearly now lol, Thanks NemeGuero. Ok but i now have my bov and boost gauge running off the brake booster line. I then teed of the booster line again for my wastegate. The bov still does not work hardly at all, my boost gauge says im only running 2 lbs of boost and i dont even know about the wastegate. Ok now i have a terrible vaccum leake somewhere around the intake manifold. I can hear it hissing like hell but i cannot find it. How can i go about finding it, and would this keep everything else from working right? Please help
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#12 |
Zilvia Junkie
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yes that will keep everything from working right. do you have the stock throttle body? if so, run your brake booster off the fat nipple in the back, NO TEES, ( dont want to fuck with your brake power do you?) there should be three ports on the front of the TB. cap the smallest lower one. (normally would go to charcole canister, route it there if you are running it. if not cap it.) looking at if from the front the right hand port should go to your fpr, you can tee this one for your boost gauge if you want. the fater one on the left goes to your bov, DIRECTLY to your bov, no tees or any bullshit. as for the wastegate or boostcontroller, drill, tap and mount another tee in your hotpipe right after the turbo. run this to your wg or boost controller, once again no tees. those should be all the vacume line that you need. hope this helps.
mike |
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#13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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![]() I see five ports in front of the throttle body not three like you said, and the one on the far right is the fattest not that far left. ![]() And keep the brake booster on this nipple? ![]() Thats the tee i have for my bov off the brake booster. So should i take that out and move it to one of the ports under the throttle body? If you could, please go over the five ports under the TB and say which one should go where? I would appreciate it sooo much. And how do i find where my vaccum leak is from? Just a pic of the engine bay for reference. ![]()
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92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more... |
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#14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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got ya, thats cause its a ka motor. i assumed it was an sr20. thats my bad. yeah as far as the vacume routing goes its the same theory as far as i know. check your fsm to see where they were routed from the factory. then back track from there. obviously if you have removed things like the factory charcol can then you will have an open vacume port. im not super familiar with where all the vac lines go on that motor as i havent really looked at it since i did my sr swap. im sure someone on here can give you some more advice though. as for checking for vacume or boost leak have a buddy rev it up to 2500 or so and take a spray bottle filled with water and just the very smallest amount of soap and spray everywhere that you suspect might be leaking. or and this is the better option, smoke test it if you have access to one. hope this helps.
mike |
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#16 |
BANNED
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that plastic tee was way whack, i have a vac block like they were describing, check it
![]() thoes 5 pipes from the tb all go to emissions shit, if you gut the manifold you can remove that entire thing of pipes. notice in my pic there is no fistfull of shit comming from the intake manifold to check for vaccum leak go to home depot and get a 2 inch rubber cap. get an air compressor or drive to sombodys house with one first. cram it over your turbo inlet. poke a small hole in the rubber cap with a straight pin, and cram the inlet to the air compressor into it. then you are putting compressed air into your intake system, so it will hiss and blow air wherever it is leaking. |
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