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Old 12-29-2006, 05:51 PM   #1
timtiminy
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SR20DET Water pump hole

Hey I was wondering if ayone out there has or can take me a close up picture of the hole behind the waterpump with the waterpump off on a s13 SR20DET. If anyone with there waterpump off can snap a quick picture and measure the hole into the block It will be much appreciated. Thank you for your help in advance.
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:40 PM   #2
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Why? This is really puzzling me...

if you need a replacement pump then:

Waterpump Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21010-52F01
Waterpump pulley Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21051-65F00
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=59345&page=2

Water pump
21010-52F00 (SR20 all)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/59345
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:46 PM   #3
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Its for a friend of mine, he wants to make a different Impeller to increase the efficiency of the water pump since SR motors are notorious for running hot. thanks for the info on the waterpumps even though thats not what i needed.
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:01 PM   #4
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I dont think you can make this based on pictures alone, you would need a block and pump to do this. I have an extra crap block i will let go for $100. If you are serious about this project, hit me up.

Also, i dont think the devil is in the impeller, but in the spacing behind the impeller, i remember this being covered somewhere, and someone made a backing plate behind it, so it would not have a dead zone to churn water.

Sr notorious for running hot? Who said that? I always have DATALOGGED colder operating temps than ka. 78c ftw.

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Old 12-29-2006, 11:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngriff

Sr notorious for running hot? Who said that? I always have DATALOGGED colder operating temps than ka. 78c ftw.

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I've over heard some discussion about overheating SR's at a number of mini meets in the past. I am not positive what could cause it but some people say it wasn't designed well for flow? DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS

What I automatically assumed; was it wasn't "designed well" because certain people redline the hell out of there engine for specific reasons we are all familiar with buy a koyo
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngriff

Sr notorious for running hot? Who said that? I always have DATALOGGED colder operating temps than ka. 78c ftw.

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I've over heard some discussion about overheating SR's at a number of mini meets in the past. I am not positive what could cause it but some people say it wasn't designed well? DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS

What I automatically assumed was it wasn't "designed well" because certain people redline the hell out of there engine for specific reasons we are all familiar with buy a koyo

On a serious note; a well designed propellor and slight increase of the pully may result in benifits... either that or the car will run to cold ALL THE TIME...
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:13 PM   #7
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He probably has a 100000 year old redtop pump with worn blades

Tell him to get a new OEM pump, the blades are slightly different to reduce cavitation.

if that doesn't help its probably because he's running shitty FAL slim fans or something equally gay.
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:39 PM   #8
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52f00 Ftw
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:25 PM   #9
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from what he said he wanted to bring the tolerances from the wheel to the block a bit closer so he needed a picture of the water pump flange on the block without the water pump on. the impeller he is wanting to make is a one piece aluminum wheel that has a backing plate like the in picture

so all i need is a picture of that space, if anyone would be kind enough to share one I would appreciate it much. thanks
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Old 12-30-2006, 12:08 AM   #10
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Lucky i am here late.


IDK what he can do as far as "tolerances" are concerned with this picture alone. This pump DOES need to be made though, not so much for "fixing some horrible problem", but high rpm load.

+1 with mcrussle on thin fans

-20000 for the koyo. I could think of about 100 better things to burn up 300 dollars on, most of which include strippers and booze.
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:10 AM   #11
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he should consider making a spacer instead of tightening it up.

If he puts the impeller closer its just gonna cavitate sooner. The guys from C&R were supposed to be working on it but i geuss they quit when their "driftZZZZZZZ" radiator ended up sucking.


I stand by my statement that your friends probably on a heap of busted oe parts and looking for snake oil water pump fix.
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Old 12-30-2006, 04:14 AM   #12
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your cooling system SUCKS then becuase actually SR's cooling is fucking amazing.

koyo rad (no ducting), SPAL dual fans, toyota coolant, 420hp 1.7+bar of boost up to 32psi on a bottom mount turbo, seibon dual vent carbon hood, revlimter for DAYS at 90+mph (generally 60+), never hotter than 95c on the track running 5+ car tandem. with THIS waterpump. (LEFT)



and i overheated my friends car to 130c+ in under 1 lap...soooo im gonna go ahead and say that mine works good.
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Old 12-30-2006, 10:36 AM   #13
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Thank you johngriff I think that the picture will work if not I'll let you know. I'll keep you all updated on this.
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