Just Dyno'd my car... I'm a lil weirded out

[DLo Eric]

Here is my dyno sheet from earlier today... My HP mod list is on there.

What I dont understand is how I got this number with stock sidemount, MAF and FPR. (I was running pretty lean but the SAFC fixed that)
and yes, it was a 4th gear pull

I'm wondering, Do I need to change over to a z32 maf since it was running so lean? I'm in the process of buying another FPR but I'm still stuck between how it was so high and if I'm being robbed of power because of my maf.

What are you're guys' opinions? What are other simular SR dyno #s? maybe I'm just crazy but it seems like I'm making more power than I expected haha

[beehderty]

dynojets run really high.... i ran my car on a mustang and had 220whp and then ran it on a dynojet and had 255whp on the same day... i have similar mods also.. but i have a safc neo and ran 11lbs... but yea i have a z32 maf and 550cc now... i havent yet dynoed it but i think ill run 240whp on the mustang.. when i dyno it again..

[Ian]

Yeah, that sounds like a very optimistic dyno

[sunnys14]

all i can say is... WOW

[dopeyx27]

wish i could make my ka that fast... =/

[chibo]

Originally Posted by dopeyx27

wish i could make my ka that fast... =/

You can, check out www.ka-t.org

[Yellow4g63]

have them change the correction factor to SAE and you will get the real #'s.

[youngmanvr4]

The one thing I'm impressed by is the tq. Most modified sr's that I've seen have more hp than tq but you have just a little more tq than hp.

[2forty]

wow that is pretty damn high, especially at 10psi? and almost no drop off? i think you should run your car at the track and see what it can do. the trap speed will definitely show you if your car is really making that much power. im guesstimating 240whp in mine and i trapped at 108mph. with 260whp and almost no drop off i would guess a high 12 at 110+ also i just noticed that youre on the stock smic still, which is even more crazy...

[sunnys14]

u forgot to add that hes only at 10psi...

[orion::S14]

Back out the correction factor, and it's a little less "optimistic":

Look at the chart...it lists the SAE correction as 1.06.

255 / 1.06 = 240rwhp

257 / 1.06 = 242rwhp

............

BUT...what T25 spools to full boost by ~4000rpm and holds until redline?

Looks fishy to me (?).

- Brian

[S14DB]

Are you sure that's your dyno and not an S14SR? The fuel looks fine on the dyno. I hope you did more than one pull.

[DLo Eric]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Are you sure that's your dyno and not an S14SR? The fuel looks fine on the dyno. I hope you did more than one pull.

Nope, s13 blacktop. Yeah, that was the last pull on the dyno. I dont have the other ones unfortunately. The reason why I was saying it was running really lean because at 0 correctiveness I was running 18s on the chart.

Originally Posted by mello88

Just noticed you are from Vegas - how much did they charge for your dyno time?

I wouldn't change the AFR you're right around 12 which is decent. I doubt your stock MAF is holding you back, you might see a slight improvement from a Z32 and retune but if you're happy with the #s for now, why screw with it?

Bout 50 bucks for a few pulls. I was at their shop for my work and remembered I needed to tune my SAFC and you already know me haha. "DLo"




You know I just forgot I have a megan header. But would that contribute that much?

[MELLO*SOS]

Just noticed you are from Vegas - how much did they charge for your dyno time?

I wouldn't change the AFR you're right around 12 which is decent. I doubt your stock MAF is holding you back, you might see a slight improvement from a Z32 and retune but if you're happy with the #s for now, why screw with it?

[MELLO*SOS]

LOL hey dude So without correction you were in the 18s AFR?? Wow you're right that's really lean.. Do you have a wideband o2 in your ride? Might wanna pick one up if you can't trust the AFRs/correction from that dyno =/

GL

[WILDACEX187]

thats not a t25 thats for damn sure.

[DLo Eric]

Originally Posted by WILDACEX187

thats not a t25 thats for damn sure.

yeah, its a t25. Its my old t25 from my redtop that I put on my blacktop.

I'm sure everyone is familiar with the Circuit Sports downpipe right? Personally I love the thing. It was worth the money.

[WILDACEX187]

oh u have a circuit sports downpipe. well that explains it

[DLo Eric]

Originally Posted by WILDACEX187

oh u have a circuit sports downpipe. well that explains it

Yep, that explains it.

Originally Posted by Bryants95240sx

18 AFR? your asking to blow your motor

Yeah, I've been holding off driving since I've installed the safc. I've popped my redtop and I wasnt about to do it again. If you look at the fuel curve I think it looks pretty good.

[santacruisin]

meh dont trip. I dynoed at about 290whp at 8psi! Your mods must work really well together.

[Vatche]

Originally Posted by santacruisin

meh dont trip. I dynoed at about 290whp at 8psi! Your mods must work really well together.

with what turbo.

[Bryants95240sx]

18 AFR? your asking to blow your motor

[BigVinnie]

AFR should run between 12.7:1~13.2:1........
Timing can be advanced slightly at that AFR.
The fuel should cool the cylinder charge to prevent detonation.....
FYI something is really wrong with that dyno, redtops with 10PSI T25's are normally around 225WHP, Blacktops about 238WHP......

Are you sure it's not a T28?????

[DLo Eric]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

AFR should run between 12.7:1~13.2:1........
Timing can be advanced slightly at that AFR.
The fuel should cool the cylinder charge to prevent detonation.....
FYI something is really wrong with that dyno, redtops with 10PSI T25's are normally around 225WHP, Blacktops about 238WHP......

Are you sure it's not a T28?????

Its an S13 Blacktop SR with a T25. I could be boosting a tad more than 10 psi considering my megan gauge is probably lying to me. But nothing major.

[orion::S14]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

AFR should run between 12.7:1~13.2:1........
Timing can be advanced slightly at that AFR.
The fuel should cool the cylinder charge to prevent detonation.....

Whoa...I hate to get off-topic here...BUT...

That's 100% incorrect.

A proper A/F for a turbocharged motor is ~12:1 or so AT THE LEANEST.

Run +13:1 at ~10-12psi on a SR and you'll HEAR the knock, and possibly break the motor.

But don't take my word, I'm not a tuner...maybe listen to Garrett:

...in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine.

From here: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...tech102.html#e

- Brian

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by orion::S14

Whoa...I hate to get off-topic here...BUT...

That's 100% incorrect.

A proper A/F for a turbocharged motor is ~12:1 or so AT THE LEANEST.

Run +13:1 at ~10-12psi on a SR and you'll HEAR the knock, and possibly break the motor.

But don't take my word, I'm not a tuner...maybe listen to Garrett:



From here: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...tech102.html#e

- Brian

Yep your right the ratio is more consistent with Natural Aspiration than it is for turbo charging.

turbobygarrett
The turbocharger increases the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of knock. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock. This is why it is imperative to run richer AFR on a boosted engine at full load. Doing so will reduce the likelihood of knock, and will also keep temperatures under control.

There are actually three ways to reduce the probability of knock at full load on a turbocharged engine: reduce boost, adjust the AFR to richer mixture, and retard ignition timing. These three parameters need to be optimized together to yield the highest reliable power.

That means in the scenario of AFR being between 12.7:1-13.2:1 and running boost higher than probably 7PSI (Garret stated higher 10-12PSI) mixture should in fact be richer (AFR 11.4:1 on average, which would vary from displacement/load) and ignition timing should be retarded. So any mixture running richer than a an 11:1 could increase ignition timing. My fault, still stuck in Natural aspiration....

[MELLO*SOS]

DLo, Did I misread your post regarding AFR? I was thinking about this the other day, I believe the "correction feature" on the dyno should only alter the power/tq curves to compensate for temperature/elevation/etc... I don't think the correction should apply at all to the AFR. Really 18's?!?!

[DLo Eric]

Originally Posted by mello88

DLo, Did I misread your post regarding AFR? I was thinking about this the other day, I believe the "correction feature" on the dyno should only alter the power/tq curves to compensate for temperature/elevation/etc... I don't think the correction should apply at all to the AFR. Really 18's?!?!

I was talking about the correction feature on the SAFC. Yeah, apparently my timing was advanced too much. Got me thinking so I had to check that last night. But basically it was pinged at 18.

I also got to thinking. My low throttle correctiveness is set to 0 with a high throttle setting of 20%. Shoulld I alter the low throttle settings to somewhat match my high throttle settings? Considering it would be hitting 18s at 0 correction on the safc.

[MELLO*SOS]

Makes more sense, the timing will raise your EGT and lean the mixture. Also I would try to pick up a wideband kit soon before you start playing around with the safc too much. The stock narrowband o2 sensor is fairly useless anywhere besides 14.7:1 afr, especially if it's getting older. I wouldn't trust it to do my turning on.. The dyno (obviously) have a wideband? Sorry I can't help with the other SAFC question =/

[kassed33]

ok, question...where are you getting the 18 for the A/F? according to the dyno(which should be ALOT more accurate than a A/F gauge you have on your car) you are at just under 12 which is right where you want to be on a turbo car. You should start off just under 14 at low RPMs then drop to around 12ish when boost kicks in and stay around there. Thats why the dyno graph has a red dashed line at that A/F ratio. And as for the power you are reading it is high for one of a couple reasons. First if you dont have a boost controller you could very likely be over boosting more thatn 10psi...you should really get one if you dont already have one, its much safer. Second the correction factor on the dyno should be the SAE correction (this is the number that everyone gives as the universal HP numbers, it makes the right corrections for temp, altitude, humitidy for your location. And third a dynojet is going to read higher than a mustang dyno. This is because a dynojet mesaures free spining torque with out putting a load on the wheels to simulate being on a road. But a mustang dyno, you have to put in the vehicle weight so the dyno can adjust for the accurate load on the wheels, and this type will give you a lower number because of this but it is a more realistic number, the actual HP you will have on the street. The stock hp for that turbo and engine should be 205hp and 203tq at the crank. The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost. So your probalby around the 15psi range...well hope thats of some help for ya bro!