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| Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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03-21-2007, 11:41 AM
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#1 |
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Zilvia Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Age: 45
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Rebuilding a KA24DE... With PICS!
I've never taken a motor apart and thought it would be fun to rip one apart, put it back together, and then see how it runs...
Engine swaps and every bolt on (as well as not bolt on) part I have experience with but this is something I really wanted to learn... I documented the teardown(and this rebuild) of the motor on this thread... Let me know if you want me to post the entire thing up here... http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=143200 Some info about this rebuild: Motor was in good running condition when I tore it down Cylinder walls were honed Crank was polished Pistons were disassembled and cleaned Replacing piston rings with new OEM rings - standard bore Using FelPro full gasket set including head gasket - purchased from AMS Using Clevite rod and main bearings - purchased from AMS Motor is going into this car with a Mitsubishi EVO twin scroll turbo and a standalone... The goal is 300 ft/lb TQ over 4000 RPM... Car is used for roadcourse events...  And on to the build...   All of the rebuild parts...     And plenty of bags with the nuts, bolts, gears, chains, guides, etc...  Pushed the new main bearings in... They only go in one way...    Rubbed a good amount of Torco engine assembly lube before dropping in the crank...  Put the piston rings onto the pistons... FSM says to have the opened notches on opposing sides...   And tapped the pistons and rods into place... I greased the cylinder walls with a little oil to ease them in...   Engine assembly lube where the rod bearings meet the crank and torqued the rod caps into place...  And before I knew it, all 4 slugs were in place... I rotated the crank with a socket wrench and everything moved smoothly...  Cleaned up and pushed the engine stand to the side for tonight... Right next to my chain...  I'm going to get this done in the next couple of days... I'll keep you guys updated... |
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03-21-2007, 12:30 PM
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#4 |
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Zilvia Junkie
 Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Age: 39
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Nice work, did you check the tolerences/clearances and just spare us the details of it?
_Kris
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It never got fast enough for me. -Hunter S. Thompson |
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03-21-2007, 03:27 PM
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#9 |
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Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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I used Plastigauge to measure the rod and main bearings when I was disassembling the motor... This is the clearances that I came up with...
Main bearing clearances (1-5, with 1 being closest to the distributor) 1 - .025 2 - .025 3 - .038 4 - .025 5 - .025 Rod bearing clearances (1-4, with 1 being closest to the distributor) 1 - .025 2 - .038 3 - .025 4 - .038 When speaking to AMS, they said just to polish the crank journals and to just use their "standard" Clevite bearings... |
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03-22-2007, 03:13 PM
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#15 |
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Zilvia Addict
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I am going to run with this headgasket right now...
The car will be on a standalone soon and we are going to keep the temps under control... Two questions I still have though? 1. What is that pin? Look a couple of posts above... 2. How should I prep the head/block/headgasket before I bolt them together? Should I use some sandpaper or steel wool or spray with copper spray? |
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03-22-2007, 11:50 PM
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#19 |
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Zilvia FREAK!
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That pin is something for timing, but I don't know for what. At least, there was a similar one on my friend's toyota pickup truck engine when he put it together. I'm pretty sure that's what it's for.
Have the head resurfaced, it's cheap. The engine might need it, too. I know of a shop that will do it for cheap in Costa Mesa. PM me if you want it.
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03-23-2007, 08:44 AM
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#20 |
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Post Whore!
 
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if you go with cometic hg.. you will absolutely hvae to deck both surfaces..
even if you're just going with a normal hg.. you should still just deck both surfaces to make sure you have a straight surface. |
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03-23-2007, 09:46 AM
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#22 |
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Post Whore!
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Atlanta
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The pin is just to keep the chain from falling over itself on the crank gear if loosened, nothing special or needed to know about it. I finally sobered up and looked at a block to see what you were talking about.
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03-23-2007, 09:51 AM
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#23 |
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Zilvia Junkie
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shouldn't the decking have been done when the motor was completly apart and bare? nice buildup but i think you shoulda done a lil more research on what steps to take when building a motor. i'd hate to see u have to rip it apart again jus to get the head n block resurfaced.
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03-23-2007, 09:59 AM
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#24 |
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Post Whore!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NC
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^^ Just to add to Russ's answer, here's a pic to help out:
 And here's the thread it came from, which is full of pics on rebuilding a KA24DE: http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...values&start=0 |
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03-23-2007, 10:39 AM
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#27 |
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Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: western, NY
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hells yeah man, props for DIY!
I used to dabble in honda motors not too long ago- http://homepage.mac.com/owen_the_soy...toAlbum21.html and someday I'll tinker with my nissan motor unless an ls1 finds its way in there first. good luck on the turbo project, thats gonna haul rumpa! |
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