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Old 08-15-2007, 04:25 PM   #1
S14mc
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idle dips when I shift

Here's what happened. I switched to a buddy club thin battery couple weeks ago. When I drove the car it drove fine, but once in a while it would seem like it would shut down (all rpm needles would drop to zero) but then jolt right back up and resume the curent rpm.

I found out that the positive terminal on the battery was touching the frame right by the headlights. This would cause a spark and then real quickly make the car sorta die for a quick second, then go back to normal.

After this situation had happened, everytime that I shift, the idle would drop all the way down to like 500 or less rpms.

I checked all pipings, couplers and any vacuum leaks from hot to cold side. I also cleaned my iacv with throttle cleaner, checked maf, coils, plugs and everything else I can think of. I do hear some sort of vacuum leakage by the intake manifold, sprayed soapy water, but I couldn't find the source. Is this normal to hear a vac by the intake manifold?

My main question is this: can this be cause because of the battery terminal connecting to the frame and causing my SR to jolt? Would this damage my alternator?
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:29 PM   #2
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FIx that battery situation as it could cause a fire, defienetly melt your battery itself from the terminal down, I have seen that happen.

The dips could be other things. Is the BOV run atmospheric?
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:38 AM   #3
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yes I run a blitz dd,.
but the rpms dip even when I'm not boosting
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:22 AM   #4
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yes I run a blitz dd,.
but the rpms dip even when I'm not boosting
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:37 AM   #5
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how do I run a blow through maf? has anybody here run a recirculated blitz? I recirculated my hks bov before, but I have never seen a blitz recirc. adapter.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:41 AM   #6
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either you have a problem with a vacuum leak or you have a problem with the bov. If you have a friend that works at a dealership or tech shop, see if they have a smoke machine and fill your system up and you should be able to find the leaks. This is the easiest way to find them. Hope it helps you out man.
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:54 AM   #7
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The reason your car drops to 500rpms on shift is because your bov is venting air that has already been metered, out to the atmosphere. When you do this your ecu tells the injectors to put more fuel in then is actually needed and the car will overly richen for a second causing the motor to bog. You need to either, recirculate your bov behind the maf or run a blow thru maf. Whether you realize it or not, even when you think you aren't boosting your bov may still open a little when you shift due to the sudden pressure change.
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:36 AM   #8
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That doesn't rule out that it could be a leaky BOV.
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Old 08-16-2007, 11:19 AM   #9
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nevermind I found a thread on nico regarding recirculating the blitz. They use the filter adapter that comes with it and shave of the filter. I'll try that out, and let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks.
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:13 PM   #10
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I recirculated my blitz bov but it did not solve the problem.

What I did notice is that when I turn the key in the ignition (acc) I could hear by the intake mani like a vacuum sound with fluids being sucked. Sorta like slurpping sound, like when you slurp from a can of coke. It keeps making this sound until I actually start the car up, then it goes away.

There is no visual signs of of fuel leaking anywhere. Anyone had this similar problem?
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:16 PM   #11
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make your spring stiffer. its leaking. i had the same problem. and whats your idle at? raise it if you have to and check iacv.
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplicit240 View Post
make your spring stiffer. its leaking. i had the same problem. and whats your idle at? raise it if you have to and check iacv.
I set my spring at the stiffest. It still has the same problem. The idle would dip. My idle is around 900 rms and when I shift sometimes it would go up to 1200rpms then drop to around 900rpms
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:23 PM   #13
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try lengthening the iacv hose, then adjusting the idle motor.

The delayed air and opened iacv will help with the drop off between shifts on a open atmosphere setup.
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngriff View Post
try lengthening the iacv hose, then adjusting the idle motor.

The delayed air and opened iacv will help with the drop off between shifts on a open atmosphere setup.
Should I still try to lengthen the iacv hose, even if I am recirculating?
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:14 PM   #15
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Probably not, but you could try opening up the IACV to see if it helps hold the idle between shifts.

Where in the piping system is the blitz placed?
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngriff View Post
Probably not, but you could try opening up the IACV to see if it helps hold the idle between shifts.

Where in the piping system is the blitz placed?
The bov is located on the hotpipe, it just replaces a midsec pipe. When I run a recirculated bov shouldn't set the bov on the softest setting?
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:14 PM   #17
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Live with it? Lol... I have a type S.. You are lucky that RPMs only dip that much, mine used to go just low enough where it didn't shut down until I got it tuned.. and it slows goes down. Just something you'll have to get used to.

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Old 08-20-2007, 06:38 PM   #18
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I want to say its something else.

Honestly i've "slapped bov's on" on the midpipe, and never noticed anything.

Usually right before the TB is where it kills it. So, you might have something else going on...
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:21 PM   #19
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Wow, taking off the iacv hose is probabally the dumbest idea that i've ever heard
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