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Old 01-26-2008, 10:29 PM   #1
nismo tuned s14
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boost controller hook up *searched*

all the directions ive read to install a boost controller says that it goes in between the wastegate and a nipple off the ic piping

my actuator operates from a vacuum line (not a pressure line) from the fpr. this is what the greddy manual said for the ka turbo kit.

i have the profec e01.

ive tried many combinations with no luck. its like im running open wastegate because i hit around 22 psi when i only need to hit no more than 10 psi.

which vacuum lines should i put the solenoid in between for the boost controller to operate properly?
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Old 01-27-2008, 07:59 AM   #2
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Uhh Im pretty sure that the wastegate opens with a PRESSURE line. Thats why your vaccuum source is on the hot piping where there is pressure. All the boost controller does is sit between the hot pipe source, and your wastegate and modulates the pressure that teh wastegate sees.

Now, my profec type-s is hooked up like so.

-T off the FPR, line goes to unit inside the car
-Line off hot pipe to boot solenoid (in)
-Line off solenoid(out) to wastegate.


Should work
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Old 01-27-2008, 08:24 AM   #3
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In a motor with boost all vacuum lines become pressurized. that is the reason why we run turbos, the turbo makes positive pressure to be forced into the cylinders.

the way i have mine set up is a vacuum line from the intercooler on the lower hot side that goes to the wastegate actuator. As of right now i am only running a MBC so all i did was cut that line and put in the MBC.

You should try to have it so that theres only one line going from the waste gate to the IC, turbo housing, vacuum source. Then take that one line cut it, install the EBC solenoid.

if your motor is getting 22psi with out the EBC, then the line form the vacuum source to the actuator has to be blocked or missing or hooked up to something that is not a vacuum source.

the only way to raise boost is to control the flow of air to the wastegate actuator. this is done by MBC EBC or removing the vaccum line
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:49 AM   #4
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ok. i tried that and it didnt work. i looked at the greddy directions again to make sure the the line from the actuator t's into the fpr, and it does. the intercooler piping came stock with a nipple but it had no directions on what it was for. that line is running to the nipple right under the throttle body. this setup has worked for the last three years with no problems.

the directions for the e01 says hook it up on the line between the actuator and the nipple on the intercooler piping, which is what everyone else says do.

the directions for the turbo kit and the e01 are conflicting, telling me to do two different things.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo tuned s14 View Post
the intercooler piping came stock with a nipple but it had no directions on what it was for. that line is running to the nipple right under the throttle body.
What does this mean?

Sounds to me like he got the ports on the boost controller hooked up backward.
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:56 AM   #6
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Follow the directions on the boost controller install manual.
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:14 AM   #7
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i found a vacuum diagram on ka-t.org.

http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...stegate+vacuum
posted by ispypsi.

it works for him so im going to try it. it looks like it cleans up everything. is anyone else running their vacuums lines in a similar way?
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Old 01-27-2008, 01:52 PM   #8
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i was told you should have nothing t'd into the FPR, i have the profec b spec 2 and heres my setup. From Actuator to the switch, then from any pressure source afer the turbo (meaning nipple on hot pipe or w/e) to the other end of the switch. and then i have the vaccum line off the throttle body to the controller inside of the car. My fpr has no t's on it unless it was needed.
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Old 01-27-2008, 01:56 PM   #9
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Well the problem is you run out of boost/vacuum sources.

You only have 2 on the front of the manifold, one which is for your BOV, not supposed to tap anything else into that, and the other one is for your FPR, which greddy recommends tapping into.

So I don't know, but thats how I've got mine setup.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:15 PM   #10
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bov shouldnt be interrupted to the throttle body, boost controller solenoid goes in between the wastegate, and a pressure source (ie, the intercooler piping.)
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnsauto View Post
bov shouldnt be interrupted to the throttle body,
Uhh, in english please?
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:00 PM   #12
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so the bov vacuum hose should run straight to the hook up under the throttle body.

the wastegate vacuum line should run straight to the i/c piping, with the solenoid in between them.

so the fpr vacuum line that i originally had running to the actuator should now t off from the brake booster vacuum line along with the boost gauge line?
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:51 PM   #13
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bov goes to a manifold pressure source (after throttle body, so when it closes there is vacuum, opening up the bov) And like burnsauto said, the boost controller goes between the wastegate and pressure source (intercooler piping, or straight to the compressor)
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:54 PM   #14
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Hmm That makes me wonder, if I have a vacuum block between my booster and my intake manifold, I could use that for the wastegate signal, yes?
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:04 PM   #15
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Hes using the Greddy E-01 EBC,

There isn't a "in" "out" on the solenoid.

There is a "no" "on" and "com" port.

I have my "Com" port hooked up to the wastegate acuator.
the "on" connected to the nipple on the cold pipe(smic)

Then. For the boost monitor valve. You have to T the FPR line on the TB, and connect the vacuum source there.
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projekt_s13 View Post
Hes using the Greddy E-01 EBC,

There isn't a "in" "out" on the solenoid.

There is a "no" "on" and "com" port.

I have my "Com" port hooked up to the wastegate acuator.
the "on" connected to the nipple on the cold pipe(smic)

Then. For the boost monitor valve. You have to T the FPR line on the TB, and connect the vacuum source there.
well on mine there is only an "no" nc" and a "com" port. i dont have an "on" port.

i thought since i have an internal wastegate instead of an external, that i had to go into the wastegate to the "com" port, then from the "no" port the i/c
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:13 PM   #17
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the manual should tell you which one goes to what and for each type of waste gate and it should have a diagram that is easy to understand.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:02 AM   #18
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bumping an old thread...

this is for a MBC, but from what i've read on here, the controller goes in b/w the vacuum and wastegate. but i found this setup online and it differs from how ppl set it up here.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...STRUCTIONS.PDF

the vacuum source T's off to the wastegate and MBC and the other side of the MBC is vented to atm. is one way diff/wrong or is it just a preference?
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obsolete View Post
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...STRUCTIONS.PDF

the vacuum source T's off to the wastegate and MBC and the other side of the MBC is vented to atm. is one way diff/wrong or is it just a preference?
The stock wastegate design maintains boost at a certain level by monitoring boost pressure. When the wastegate sees a certain amount of pressure, exhaust gas is diverted away from the turbine to stop increasing boost pressure.

A lot of boost controllers are designed to be put between the boost source and the wastegate. The controller does not allow the wastegate to see boost pressure until the desired boost level is achieved. When boost reaches the desired level, the boost controller lets the wastegate see boost and the wastegate does its thing.

The JWT boost controller Tees off the vacuum line going to the wastegate. When boost is below the desired level, the JWT opens the atmosphere valve and all the pressure in the vacuum hose goes to atmosphere. This is a vacuum leak. That's why they said to use a flow restrictor. Otherwise, you'll never get boost.

When you reach your desired boost level, the atmospheric valve closes and the hose gets pressure, the wastegate sees pressure and does its thing.


A lot of controllers are accurate up to +/-1-2 PSI depending on how you plumb them. The JWT claims to be more accurate so I don't know.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:22 AM   #20
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so this setup is JWT specific. If you hook it up this way w/out a flow restrictor, then you'll never get boost? if a boost gauge is connected to this line, then is it possible for the gauge to read the pressure, but not 'really' get any boost? meaning it will read the boost pressure but in reality there is a leak?
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Old 12-04-2008, 07:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
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so this setup is JWT specific.
Yes. To be honest I have never seen a boost controller that vents to atmosphere like that. Most of the ones I've seen doesn't require a flow restrictor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by obsolete View Post
If you hook it up this way w/out a flow restrictor, then you'll never get boost?
Correct. It'll be like running with a BOV stuck on open. You'll leak metered air and the ECU won't like you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by obsolete View Post
if a boost gauge is connected to this line, then is it possible for the gauge to read the pressure, but not 'really' get any boost? meaning it will read the boost pressure but in reality there is a leak?
What like, the atmosphere line? This line should be vented to atmosphere and not plugged up with a pressure gauge. If you Tee off this line all you'll ever see is atmospheric, which is 0 on a boost gauge.

Put the boost gauge where you're supposed to put it. Quit messing around with turbo plumbing if you don't know how it's supposed to be.
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:01 PM   #22
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http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/224425...ines-help.html

that should help man, it is the same set up if you are running from an actuator.
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:20 PM   #23
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hahah i will. I was just curious because it was set up this way when I got the car. Wanted to see if his setup was valid and a different method. hopefully i feel a difference.
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