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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#4 |
Leaky Injector
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see, now it's just more obvious that you don't know what you're asking. you want everything to be handed to you. maybe we don't have time to spend on telling you everything about balancing, compression ratios, replacing rods, cams, crankshafts, pistons...actually i have time during the day this week, ha cuz i have the week off, but anyways, come on, ask better questions. if you have no clue what you're doing, it could take you months for a rebuild. which would mean months without a car. that would suck...
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#5 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Wooaaa, chill out newb. Sounds like you know what you are talking about, but why don't you use it to help him rather than flaming him. I haven't rebuilt my KA yet, I am actually quite interested in the answers to this question. I would be doing a simple rebuild (replacing seals, etc.) not replacing cams and rods or doing any boring or anything. So how long does it take for a somewhat experienced person to rebuild the KA?
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#6 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Hey red240ne why dont you stop being an ass.If you are so briliant and know so much share with the guy.How more detailed can a person get that does not know the answer to a question get.if he knew everything he would not ask right so if you know share or shut the heck up man.If he knew what he wanted he could ask.A rebuild is very broad and basic so help and not be like the rest of the nebs that have been and gone.
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#7 |
WOW addicted
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If your post is nothing but a Flame.. DON'T POST IT.. I don't care how long you've been on the board. one day, or two years. It's called RESPECT.
Red240ne's post was fine. He askedfor more specifics on the question.. as you said a rebuild is very broad.. Stil Bil - What kind of rebuild are you talking about? Performance rebuild? Or just rebuilding back to OEM spec? Replacing any componants specifically? What is the goal of this rebuild? if you answer these questions we can more appropriately answer your question.
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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thanks for backing me guys,
red240ne: qranted i did ask a very vague question, i should have specified what type of rebuild as sykikchimp mentioned, but i didnt so i assumed that you didnt catch what i was asking, a complete misunderstanding. but you didnt have to fly off, it does nothing but get most all the members pissed off at you( trust me i know just ask around, but all is cool now) as for the rebuild, i was thinking about a complete oem rebuild from Flatlander Racing, but replacing the stock pistons with a set(brand undecided) of 8.5:1 compresion forged pistons. now if you could explain on what problems or quirks a very mechanically versed person or group of guys might encounter thanks! william
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DUDE I'M GETTING A TURBO!! |
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#10 |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oregon
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (stil bil @ Oct. 29 2002,6:45)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">thanks for backing me guys,
red240ne: qranted i did ask a very vague question, i should have specified what type of rebuild as sykikchimp mentioned, but i didnt so i assumed that you didnt catch what i was asking, a complete misunderstanding. but you didnt have to fly off, it does nothing but get most all the members pissed off at you( trust me i know just ask around, but all is cool now) as for the rebuild, i was thinking about a complete oem rebuild from Flatlander Racing, but replacing the stock pistons with a set(brand undecided) of 8.5:1 compresion forged pistons. now if you could explain on what problems or quirks a very mechanically versed person or group of guys might encounter thanks! william</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> Unless you plan on turbo...I wouldn't use the 8.5:1 pistons, the pistons out of a 89 KA24E are at 9.0:1 and are still factory. Thats what I'm going to do with mine. It's not really that difficult to rebuild if you have a general idea of what needs to be done and how things work. You would be looking at about 300$ in machine work on top of whatever you might have paid for the parts. With the head, it's pretty easy to do. You would have to have your head flow tested which is usually about 175$. If you are consistent with your work, and rush the machine shop, you could have it done in about a week. I think the biggest part is just pulling the motor out, you could do it with it still in the car, but you have a lot less room to work, and you would have to get the head and oil pan off to get the pistons and rods out. I've seen people do it that way but it's easier to pull it and do it that way.
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Branden Rosa 1990 RB240sx |
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#11 |
Married to the Mob
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A rebuild without any machineshop work will take you about a week to two weeks to do, working consistently, every day, a few hours a day. To pull the motor and install it on a stand, you'll need about 3-5 hours. About the same to install it back. The first day, you'll probably want to pull the cyl. head off, get all the timing components out, put the block on a motor stand, with the oil pan on, let everything drain to the bottom overnight, let all the coolant drip out and then the next day start taking the block apart. Unless this motor has more then 80-90K on it and you just bought it, I myself wouldn't send it to a machine shop. It's always a good idea to check the block for cracks, check the head for cracks and warpage. Pretty much everything else you can do with a good T-gauge set and a good set of micrometers (don't forget feeler gauges for mating surface straightnesses and for your crank endplay, and all other clearances you'll need to measure.) You know, I could go on about this forever. It's simple, really, unless you need a machine shop to do any work. I'm gonna be doing one in a few weeks, and I'm not sending anything to the shop, because, hopefully, if everything comes through, this is a very low-mileage motor, and everything as far as removal and replacement, I can do. Start with the block, free of oil pan and head, take your measurements, figure out if it's worth working on this thing or sending it out to a shop. Then take your pistons and rods out. You're supposed to put everything back exactly where it was, exactly in the position you found it in. Everything you are reusing, that is. So mark things, if you're re-using them, you can't go wrong that way.
If you're after lower compression, it's not just about pistons. It's also about the length of the rod and the actual crankshaft measurements themselves. So if you're getting a piston with a shorter head, you might as well get a set of shorter rods. This is really really fun. If you're located in the chicagoland area, I could always help you out. I'm not a super-genius, but I think I have an overall good background when it comes to engines, disassembly, reassembly, and all that other basic stuff. Oh, PS, I smartassed in another topic that's also on KA rebuilding, check Tech, should be from today. |
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