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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#5 |
Nissanaholic!
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A strut bar is hard to mess up. . . Basically a stiff rod connecting your strut towers. S'long as it isn't made of rubber, it should be good <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>
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#6 |
AutoX Junkie
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rollhard has some good prices, too.
<a href="http://www.rollhard.com/240sx.htm" target='_blank'>http://www.rollhard.com/240sx.htm</a> (Edited by LanceS13 at 12<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>8 am on Oct. 24, 2001) |
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#10 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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whys it so hard to find one for the rear of the s-14?
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#11 |
Nissanaholic!
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STBs are STBs - you pay for 1) adjustability (which all of the above have), 2) weight (maybe a pound difference - maybe), 3) NAME, 4) material (okay - a CF bar is a lot lighter). I paid $40 for the PDM bar and I got a STB.
[$0.02] As for the rear - have you been back there? Routing one seems very difficult. Plus, I doubt a lot of manus make them b/c a coupe is reasonably stiff and since there s14 was only made as a coupe there is less need. Most cars with an abundant supply of RSTBs come with a hatchback varient (e.g., s13, civic, teg). [/$0.02] |
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#13 |
Married to the Mob
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I just ordered a $tillen one (thought about that: "you get what you pay for" thing), hoping that it would last me longer, yadda yadda... In reality, these guys are right, it doesn't make a difference. I just like spending money on my car, that's all.
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#22 |
Nissanaholic!
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####, slap JDM in the description of something and triple the price? I'm just glad I don't care that my car is a USDM model <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>
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#27 |
Guest
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Sorry if this question sounds dumb, but is there any specific tool or method required to put on a strut bar? Someone in another forum said they needed to be torqued to spec. Someone else said to just make it tight. And someone else said to raise the cars first. What do you people say?
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#28 |
Zilvia Member
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ok, all you should have to do is unbolt the nuts and put the strut bar on. There should be not reason for you to put the car in the air...As far and how tight should be the nuts...well I dont know I have been just making them snug...I dont think is a torqued setting for that butI could be wrong anyone out there know the torque setting for a sturt bar?
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#29 |
AutoX Junkie
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Yes you should raise the car...or at least the end on which you're installing the bar. This is called pre-loading. With the car in the air, there is no stress on the chassis. If you apply the bar while there's already stress on the chassis, then it can't prevent that stress from happening.
here's what the front of the car looks like on the ground (exaggerated) /_________\ lifted on a jack |_________| add the bar |------------| and the chassis will stay rigid when you let it down. If you don't preload, it looks like this /------------\ and the bar isn't really doing it's job. And torque specs on the nuts I believe are 35-40 for the front and 30-35 for the rear. Not real sure about that but it should close enough. |
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#30 |
AutoX Junkie
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oh yeah...another installation tip
take the rings off the ends and install them separately. Once those are installed, adjust the bar to about the right length and install it between the already mounted rings. The bar should twist to tighten, so mount it kind of offset so when you tighten it, it's straight. |
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