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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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sr20 tranny problem
Looked in alot of fourms and places on the internet but I'd love the opinion of so zilvians on this one. For the first week of driving my sr after I had it rebuilt the transmission shifted buttery smooth but it gradually has become harder and harder to shift. It started with a grind while going into reverse. Really bad grind but it was NEVER there before and i never mis-shifted or anything. Now getting into first makes my shoulder want to fall off and I'm a pretty muscular guy. While rolling i can get it into first easy though.
Now while I'm in first, the car rolls with decent speed even when i have the clutch pedal to the floor. And in order to stop i have to keep my foot on the brake but when I do so the rpm's seem to drop quite a bit. Shifting into the rest of the gears is easy but still not smooth like it once was. slight grind into fifth about half the time too. Now is this a clutch problem or a tranny problem? New slave cylinder? I'm sure my syncros are shit by now because of this abuse but the cars my daily and i'm strapped on cash but, other than that could it be some clutch adjustment problem, possibly need a new clutch? I just don't see how it went from running great to complete shit in such short time..... |
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#3 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
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Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging properly. You probably drove it like that a bit then wore out your transmission. Just a guess though. How does your clutch feel hydraulically, like does the pedal return all the way out?
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#4 | |
Leaky Injector
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I'm thinking to go pick up a new clutch and tranny? |
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#5 |
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air in the clutch line? or even a leak.
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#6 |
Zilvia Addict
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If you are leaking gear oil or burnging it up in your transmission (or just have low gear oil) it can cause some of these problems also because the syncro's are not getting properly lubricated.
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#7 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Rule #1: DO NOT USE GL-5 OIL IN SR/KA TRANNIES!!! Only use GL-4 oil...
Rule #2: Get rid of the clutch dampner line, makes bleeding your clutch line a breeze... Where is your clutch engaging/disengaging? Sounds like its doing it almost to the bottom...start by adjusting the clutch pedal engagement point higher.... |
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#8 | |
Leaky Injector
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Explain the whole GL-4 to me. Ive just got a standard 75w-90 in there nothing special. But the clutch has seemed to engage alot lower than it once did now that I think of it. maybe just about less than halfway... |
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#9 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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GL-5 oils have something in them that doesnt bode well with the brass synchros in SR/KA trannies. Its fine as long as the gear oil temp doesnt exceed a certain temp, but when it gets too hot, the oil reacts with the brass and over time, eats it.
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#10 | |
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Quote:
I've been running Rotella 80/90 gear oil forever, and haven't really had any issues....not saying you are wrong, but I'm very interested to know! Edit: Yea the FSM says Gl4...how on earth have I missed this forever! Edit 2: Seems as if GL4 would be best in a stock application, while Gl5 is better for a higher power/temp situation? Both are designed for manual hypoid transmissions, and both are 'equally' as slippery...seems as if so long as you stay away from synthetic, you'll be ok. I'll read more tomorrow, as now i"m interested....can't beleive in all this time I didn't see the Gl4, but it seems like Gl5 is ok still...
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#12 |
Leaky Injector
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ok so just wanted to clean the garage, and went to back out the car today. starts fine but once in first or reverse the car dies with the clutch pedal to the floor. The clutch definately is shot
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